Help for Black Pine backbudding

I have one question, when you have a branch with 2 big bud on the end and several new small buds on the old wood, what is the best technic to give the small buds the best energy ?
Pinch the 2 big buds and leave the small untouched or leave all untouched and later in July cut back the 2 bigs leaving the small untouched ?
 
I have one question, when you have a branch with 2 big bud on the end and several new small buds on the old wood, what is the best technic to give the small buds the best energy ?
Pinch the 2 big buds and leave the small untouched or leave all untouched and later in July cut back the 2 bigs leaving the small untouched ?

I would remove all but the two buds/candles you want to keep.
 
I would remove all but the two buds/candles you want to keep.
At this moment i need green, so if possible I want to keep all the buds, and desperately needs this backbudding. I have fear that if I remove now the two big buds the plant doesn't have strength to grove the inside one.
Like this situation


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The best technique in this particular case is to do nothing to the branch. Let all the growth run. In the fall if the inner buds are strong, cut back to them. If not, wait another year and cut back in fall.

Fertilize the tree well. But stick to one regime. And remember to use a time release during the winter.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Energy is gaining momentum, back budding is growing.
I would say thank you to all the users that helped me to discover that is possible with a proper cultivation.
I will do energy balance only on the big candles, and again in Juli i will do a cut back but only on the last year strong grows.


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The small back buds are still way to undeveloped to cut back. Cut back to buds without needles can sometimes cause the entire branch to die and defeat your purpose.
If you are still seeing reasonable development in those back buds then everything is OK but, often, strong growing terminal shoots can suppress growth of those tiny buds so they may not develop. I get good results from weakening strong terminal buds to allow the inner buds to grow before chopping next year. Decandling the terminal shoot but leaving some needles will work. Cutting terminal candles in half to leave some old and some new needles will work. Removing one or more terminal shoots but leave at least 1 will also work. Basically, anything that weakens the terminal shoots but still keeps enough terminal growth to maintain sap flow will keep the branch alive but allow those small buds to develop.
 
There are trade offs (ā€œCompeting Goodsā€) we always face. In this case the trade off is style vs tree health/foliar strength

It appears OP seems to favor style in most cases

While there are improvements in style, the tree was still weak imho. Reducing foliage only exacerbated the issue.

That’s ok as long as one recognizes doing so is frequently putting the tree on the razors edge of health… understanding it will take a at least a couple of years of good management to regain health that seems ok.

Best
DSD sends
 
There are trade offs (ā€œCompeting Goodsā€) we always face. In this case the trade off is style vs tree health/foliar strength

It appears OP seems to favor style in most cases

While there are improvements in style, the tree was still weak imho. Reducing foliage only exacerbated the issue.

That’s ok as long as one recognizes doing so is frequently putting the tree on the razors edge of health… understanding it will take a at least a couple of years of good management to regain health that seems ok.

Best
DSD sends
Thank you for your observation, I think the plant will manage it, there was a lot of grow, we will see next summer. Do you have suggestion for autumn fertilizing routine ? PK ?
 
Thank you for your observation, I think the plant will manage it, there was a lot of grow, we will see next summer. Do you have suggestion for autumn fertilizing routine ? PK ?

PK is an echo of the past. NPK & micros is present practice.

Use Osmocote Plus moderately or something similar as a base all autumn and through winter. Add half strength miracle gro every two weeks and the tree will be very happy in spring.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
PK is an echo of the past. NPK & micros is present practice.

Use Osmocote Plus moderately or something similar as a base all autumn and through winter. Add half strength miracle gro every two weeks and the tree will be very happy in spring.

Cheers
DSD sends
Yes a lot here practice only PK, I will try your regime, only for pines no deciduos one right ?
So basically almost the same components of the rest of the year, without humic acid and seaweed extract and with different timing .
Osmocote is only one time since is 4 months
Some people use here also a little bit ok kali magnesia here, any experience ?

Thank you for your help
 
Yes a lot here practice only PK, I will try your regime, only for pines no deciduos one right ?
So basically almost the same components of the rest of the year, without humic acid and seaweed extract and with different timing .
Osmocote is only one time since is 4 months
Some people use here also a little bit ok kali magnesia here, any experience ?

Thank you for your help
All year all types of trees.
Ok to use Humic and kelp until temps get about 7.5C We mix it in with our Miracid which we stop at the same time.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Here’s the ingredients. Check it out. If close you are good to go.
Thank you for the picture. basically is the same. The differences between plus and pro are, total nitrogen 15% vs 19% and soluble potash 12% vs 10%, so more less Nitrogen and more potash for the Plus
Is still ok ?
All year all types of trees.
But the decidues tree in winter still use fertilize ?
 
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