Sekka

10/23
i noticed a little extra yellowing. usually all the little growth that didn't get enough light during the growing season is dried up by October and you can pick it right off from the base of the branches. closer inspection revealed a damn kudzu bug party spot. sprayed it down with this stuff and haven't seen them again.
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today i pulled off browning foliage. no bugs. just a couple spiders. tips look good.

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one years worth of growth, 4/23 to 4/24

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i might take cuttings next year. these shoots still aren't strong enough. they still have a flat looking formation. i want the branch leaders to look like the cuttings below before i take them:

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Do you plan to deal with that or just extend then prune back later?
(in zohan voice) no no no no no no no no 😁
we just growing this guy out for cuttings. this type of more mature growth is what im looking for. this tree was straight shit for trying to start any type of decent looking sekka bonsai in my opinion.
 
The are notorious for having essentially “flat” stems and branches that only put out shoots left and right. To deal with this you have to wire the stem and/or branch and give it a twist so that the “leaves” basically spiral and that way the new shoots will be arranged around the stem/branch.
 
The are notorious for having essentially “flat” stems and branches that only put out shoots left and right. To deal with this you have to wire the stem and/or branch and give it a twist so that the “leaves” basically spiral and that way the new shoots will be arranged around the stem/branch.
In the videos from the channel I posted a while back, you'll see that he does this with branches and trunks. This accomplishes two things: 1) you get buds/future branches in all directions. 2) You essentially shorten the internodes as spiraling the branches "squashes" them. You would be amazed how much twisting they'll actually take. I've found that if you do this to young shoots, let the wire bite in quite a bit, and then remove it, the wire marks will fade over the next few seasons.

I've even done this with branches I know I'm going to take for cuttings later on.
 
These things do grow slow as heck, I’ve had one about 10cm tall in a 15x15x15 nursery pot for about 2 years and it’s probably produced 5mm of new growth
 
If you're after larger Sekka hinoki, Bonsai Learning Center had a few pretty nice ones at the Potomac Bonsai Association show/sale a few weeks back. I've only seen seedlings of this variety, so the developed trees were an eye-opener. Some of them were pretty nice, but all were also pretty pricey. They have one on their website, but they had a half dozen or so at the show. All pretty developed.

 
These things do grow slow as heck, I’ve had one about 10cm tall in a 15x15x15 nursery pot for about 2 years and it’s probably produced 5mm of new growth
damn, that's super slow. in zone 10, light and temps should be enough to get more growth than that. is it not enough light, soil too wet?
 
Unfortunately I lost one of my pre bonsai sekka’s. I’m learning that the like less sun in my location.
after reading this yesterday i was wondering what zone number and elevation sekka hinoki originated from. if they get low sun exposure interior buds usually die back fast.
 
I purchased one of these three weeks ago at the All State show here in MI. So, I'll be following this thread closely. :)

Tiny little thing with the trunk you don't like, but the top on mine looks like it close to cutting size. I've been keeping it in full sun from sunrise till 3pm.

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I purchased one of these three weeks ago at the All State show here in MI. So, I'll be following this thread closely. :)

Tiny little thing with the trunk you don't like, but the top on mine looks like it close to cutting size. I've been keeping it in full sun from sunrise till 3pm.

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Be careful with your cuttings. They can root quite easily but, I took 11 last June and put them in sifted pumice. To keep humidity up I put them in a large ziplock bag and in the shade, opening a d closing the bag as needed for ventilation. Well after about a week they got hit with mold so I had to pull them and dip in peroxide then back in the pumice. I kept them out of the bag this time but over the summer all but 3 died. These 3 made it through the winter without roots but in the last month they have been in the new greenhouse and have finally popped roots. I think next time I will dip in diluted peroxide, then put in the fine pumice in the greenhouse. Ventilation is obviously very important. I have used the ziplock several times for elm cuttings without issue so I guess I just got unlucky last summer.
 
I purchased one of these three weeks ago at the All State show here in MI. So, I'll be following this thread closely. :)

Tiny little thing with the trunk you don't like, but the top on mine looks like it close to cutting size. I've been keeping it in full sun from sunrise till 3pm.
looks good. you can also airlayer these to shorten the trunk.
 
this is the sekka development playlist I've been watching

Cool I'll definitely check those out. I just watched the two of the videos @Yamabudoudanshi posted and I'm really liking the wiring technique used in one of them.

Bad screen grab of one video, but the wire plate on the bottom of the pot is great, and the way he used one wire to bring down 3 different branches was awesome. :) Sorry, I'm new and impress easily. I wish the translation was better because when reading, "This is the time for wiring (pruning) this tree" is confusing (he meant both), but I did get a chuckle when the translation said "I look forward to thinking." I was right there with them as I've been looking forward to thinking for years. :)

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Be careful with your cuttings. They can root quite easily but, I took 11 last June and put them in sifted pumice. To keep humidity up I put them in a large ziplock bag and in the shade, opening a d closing the bag as needed for ventilation. Well after about a week they got hit with mold so I had to pull them and dip in peroxide then back in the pumice. I kept them out of the bag this time but over the summer all but 3 died. These 3 made it through the winter without roots but in the last month they have been in the new greenhouse and have finally popped roots. I think next time I will dip in diluted peroxide, then put in the fine pumice in the greenhouse. Ventilation is obviously very important. I have used the ziplock several times for elm cuttings without issue so I guess I just got unlucky last summer.
Thanks for the advice. Did you use a rooting hormone on the cuttings?
 
Thanks for the advice. Did you use a rooting hormone on the cuttings?
Oh yes, but by the time we got to this spring I am sure it was long gone. The main lesson is to watch out for mold and try to prevent it from happening. Good ventilation is the best way but I hope the peroxide dip will also do some good.
 
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