The science of air-layering
- Thread starter Bonsai Nut
- Start date
hinmo24t
Masterpiece
those topsy turvys work well i heard
giventofly
Shohin
Anyone got images for at what point should we cut for azaleas or camellias ?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Here's what they look like after 365 days. Should come as no surprise to those of us bonsai nuts who enjoy working with cascading trees. Great demonstration of gravitropism.
Wulfskaar
Omono
Calling all air-layering experts! I need advice.
Please take a look at my air-layer. I'm wondering if I should restart/rewound or if I should keep waiting. See last comment on my shishigashira thread. Thanks!
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/w...ra-maple-lions-head.50792/page-2#post-1060436
Please take a look at my air-layer. I'm wondering if I should restart/rewound or if I should keep waiting. See last comment on my shishigashira thread. Thanks!
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/w...ra-maple-lions-head.50792/page-2#post-1060436
I have a question similar to the maple one above. I started an air layer on a 'mystery elm' a couple months back. The 1 inch section where I removed the bark has completely calloused over but formed no roots yet. Should I re-cut to again separate the bottom of the callous mass from the cambium layer, or just wait? I'm guessing it bridged and I need to re-cut.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Looks like you did not ensure the cambiumcells were dead before backing up. Yes, clear again. Ensure the cambium is gone this time.
desu
Seedling
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This is a fantastic summary Thank you! Will put to good use. Attempted this on some trees this June. Hope to have some roots soon but its not looking good!
I tried using those black half spheres filled with wet sphagnum but it wasnt truly air tight. Not sure if my failure was with lack of water or not getting through to the sapwood.
I tried using those black half spheres filled with wet sphagnum but it wasnt truly air tight. Not sure if my failure was with lack of water or not getting through to the sapwood.
suzshaff
Seed
Thanks for this great info!! I did a Spring air layer on a Japanese maple - it's now approaching fall and I think it needs more time - there are some very fine roots, but it doesn't look robust. Is it OK to keep it going thru winter? South Central PA zone 7a. Any special prep to protect it over winter?
THanks!
THanks!
Hi to everyone.
Until now I have been air layering quite uncucessfully, however I did not loose the hope. The time I am located (Europa) it is approacing, so what I need to observe and assure my air layers on japanese maples will be sucessful ? Any pictures will be great. Thanks in advance.
Until now I have been air layering quite uncucessfully, however I did not loose the hope. The time I am located (Europa) it is approacing, so what I need to observe and assure my air layers on japanese maples will be sucessful ? Any pictures will be great. Thanks in advance.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
main question is.. What has gone wrong to date?
Gonzoe
Yamadori
Any tips on making sure you get to the right layer? I’ve read before to go all the way and take off all the bark but I guess I misunderstood what they meant by bark..
shohin_branches
Chumono
You need to cut through the bark and the live cambium underneath. Cutting into the sapwood a bit is fine or let the cut dry out for a day to make sure the cambium is 100% gone to prevent bridging. There should be no green. Many trees have white sapwood.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Maybe these help..?
Key is to remove the back, which should be easy to determine what is bark. Then to gently scrape the cambium cells and/or let the site dry for a bit. Clean cut on top, and add some rooting hormone o the cut and the bark above. Then wrap and wait. Waiting can be weeks, months and in some cases years. As long at the branch is alive and the cleared areas hase not overgrown with callus.. Wait for roots.
Gonzoe
Yamadori
So if I give it a day or so and it’s white, if not green, it’s good?
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