The Barber's Hinoki Cypress (chamaecyparis obtusa) "Split Rock" #1

The Barber

Chumono
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Location
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USDA Zone
6b
Does anyone have any experience with the "Split rock" cultivar of hinoki? I picked one up for $127 at the local landscaping nursery, they have at least 6 more, gonna go back tomorrow and possibly buy another. I've been trying to find a decent mature hinoki locally for a bit, they are always leggy (no inner foliage, and expensive af. The only ones I've found were 550 bucks for a 4 ft tree, so I feel like I stole this one.

Opinions?

Positives:
-It is around 6 ft tall, lots to work with.
-Lots of inner foliage, since they don't backbud I know this is a must.
-lots of new growth along the trunk and even the old growth has buds. 🤯
-Nice taper, no inverse taper.
-Thick trunk, my hand only goes about half way around, bigger than a pop can.

Negatives:
-Only slight movement in the trunk.

To Be Determined:
-Nebari, dug down about 4 inches, but was wielding a flashlight. I gave up after I found one small root, figured I'd hold out till daytime, don't want to disturb the roots, just want a peek under her skirt.

Plan:
-Work towards a formal upright.
-Pot it in the spring.

Recommendations?

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Here's the trunk after digging down 3 or 4 inches
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Before digging, just seeing what shes got going on, better angle of the taper.
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That's a big tree, how low are you going to chop it if you use it for bonsai.
In this topic you said there is no graft, but have you already looked in the soil at the rootbase to be 100% sure?
I ask this beacuse most hinoki's have a (ugly) graft at the base of the trunk.
 
I would get it potted in spring then a plan could start forming after you made sure there is no graft and a front.
 
That's a big tree, how low are you going to chop it if you use it for bonsai.
In this topic you said there is no graft, but have you already looked in the soil at the rootbase to be 100% sure?
I ask this beacuse most hinoki's have a (ugly) graft at the base of the trunk.
About to go out and do some more digging in the soil to see, will update once I find the actual base
 
That's a big tree, how low are you going to chop it if you use it for bonsai.
In this topic you said there is no graft, but have you already looked in the soil at the rootbase to be 100% sure?
I ask this beacuse most hinoki's have a (ugly) graft at the base of the trunk.
Ooooooo good news so far. Not to mention the nice trunk base flare. Appears to have a very fine root system to boot!20240124_093031.jpg
 
Nice find. Most of the nursery hinokis I see have a terrible graft on them.
 
Nice one! I’d probably put it in a box for a couple years if it were me.
 
Nice find. Most of the nursery hinokis I see have a terrible graft on them.
Why I only bought 1, as a test tree, figured worst case scenario, I would end up ground layering it. Also glad to know the root ball isn't nearly as thick as I thought. The flare at the base was a nice find as well. I don't see many roots that were cut off around the outside of the root ball from when they dug it.
 
That's a big tree, how low are you going to chop it if you use it for bonsai.
Sorry, forgot to answer this question, that I will decide on later, although I would say 3 to 4 ft is where I'd like it to end up, I feel like that would be a good proportion to end up at.

I'd say this branch may work as a new leader.
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Here's the back most likely, either would work as a front, but honestly won't know till I pot it.
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I like it! Please update as I have my first HC as well. Mine is short but with a boring base:

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Just dug it up and potted, pruned and (sort of styled) it the other day. Upon next repot will likely reduce roots and go 50/50 organic and inorganic
 
I like it! Please update as I have my first HC as well. Mine is short but with a boring base:

View attachment 529218
Just dug it up and potted, pruned and (sort of styled) it the other day. Upon next repot will likely reduce roots and go 50/50 organic and inorganic
Hinoki don't being potted and styled at the same time, just a heads up.
 
Any updates on this tree? What time of year did you do chop? Just recently picked one up myself but it is grafted. I plan to create some deadwood in trunk base to see if I can hide it although graft don’t look horrible but also have not dug down.
 
Any updates on this tree? What time of year did you do chop? Just recently picked one up myself but it is grafted. I plan to create some deadwood in trunk base to see if I can hide it although graft don’t look horrible but also have not dug down.
This one died. For whatever reason I can't keep hinoki alive. Only species I always manage to murder. I still have another one, almost identical, I haven't done anything with yet. Best advice I can give is to take your time with them. They definitely do not like a lot of stress. Space out the major work far as you can.
 
This one died. For whatever reason I can't keep hinoki alive. Only species I always manage to murder. I still have another one, almost identical, I haven't done anything with yet. Best advice I can give is to take your time with them. They definitely do not like a lot of stress. Space out the major work far as you can.
Ok bummer at least you have another one. Thanks for the tip. You ever do any large bends?
 
Ok bummer at least you have another one. Thanks for the tip. You ever do any large bends?
After a certain branch thickness they start to lose a lot of their flexibility and the cambium can tear, so I'd advise that you use raffia correctly if you plan any attempts. Heavy bends have caused me to gasp multiple times when the branch has snapped. Hinoki is pretty flexible, but not nearly as flexible as juniper from my experience, and definitely not as flexible as pine (not all pine species are created equal in flexibility either, and the age of the branch or tree also can come into play there). Pines can take a bit more abuse though because of their ability to laterally transport nutrients through their vascular system, and can transport around tears in cambium, wedge cut bending, wounds, etc until they heal. Most trees just aren't as adept at this as a pine. As with any tree make sure it is showing vigor before doing any major work, a weak tree may not have the energy to heal, or recover from the stress of the abuse we put them through.
 
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