Bought these mumes that I plan to use for cuttings

Pretty sure @Nybonsai12 has one growing on its own roots.

As far as winter in NY vs Japan, even in NY winter on Long Island vs Buffalo are two different things
 
Pretty sure @Nybonsai12 has one growing on its own roots.

As far as winter in NY vs Japan, even in NY winter on Long Island vs Buffalo are two different things
I read through his thread and he overwinter his potted mumes in his garage and his pre-prebonsai mumes were grown in the ground. The mumes I had (The ones growing on their own roots) were in pond baskets that sat on the ground during the winter. I’d guess the ground provided the necessary protection for the roots to survive. I’m not saying it’s definite proof that mumes on their own roots have difficulty surviving winters here but it does lead me to believe that it is a strong possibility.

Since I don’t wanna place my mume in the ground without having examine the roots, this winter I’ll overwinter mine in the garage and see what happens (hopefully I have good news🤞)

I also was thinking maybe I’ll bury the pot the mume is in, in the ground sometime in September so that the roots have enough time to escape into the ground. Idk if I wanna risk it. But I’ll update the thread if I do end up doing that.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention though. This may have helped me figure out how to solve my mume problem.
 
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I read through his thread and he overwinter his potted mumes in his garage and his pre-prebonsai mumes were grown in the ground. The mumes I had (The ones growing on their own roots) were in pond baskets that sat on the ground during the winter. I’d guess the ground provided the necessary protection for the roots to survive. I’m not saying it’s definite proof that mumes on their own roots have difficulty surviving winters here but it does lead me to believe that it is a strong possibility.

Since I don’t wanna place my mume in the ground without having examine the roots, this winter I’ll overwinter mine in the garage and see what happens (hopefully I have good news🤞)

I also was thinking maybe I’ll bury the pot the mume is in, in the ground sometime in September so that the roots have enough time to escape into the ground. Idk if I wanna risk it. But I’ll update the thread if I do end up doing that.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention though. This may have helped me figure out how to solve my mume problem.
He developed one from a cutting he bought from Evergreen Gardenworks in the ground for several years. I can't find that thread atm to link it though

@Nybonsai12
Can you link it please?
I can't search your posts
 
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He developed one from a cutting he bought from Evergreen Gardenworks in the ground for several years. I can't find that thread atm to link it though

@Nybonsai12
Can you link it please?
I can't search your posts



This is my thread on mume I’ve developed. All on their own roots. A few were ground grown and I have a few younger ones still in pots that will eventually go in the ground. I try to keep them outside during winter as much as possible but will move to garage when really harsh temps roll through.
 
Spotted this on my peggy clarke today.

IMG_0954.jpeg

Should I use a foliage fungicide spray or systemic fungicide?

I would like to note that the peggy clarke has been growing like mad even with this infection
 
Spotted this on my peggy clarke today.

View attachment 560648

Should I use a foliage fungicide spray or systemic fungicide?

I would like to note that the peggy clarke has been growing like mad even with this infection
In plant propagation it's a bad practice to use diseased plants. If that was mine, my concentration would be trying to get the tree to 100%.
 
Spotted this on my peggy clarke today.

View attachment 560648

Should I use a foliage fungicide spray or systemic fungicide?

I would like to note that the peggy clarke has been growing like mad even with this infection
Picture is not clear enough to determine. But it appears to be insect damage to the leaf. Are any other leaves affected. If so what do they look like?
 
It's a leaf miner, squash it between your fingers and the infestation is over.
If it's not gone already.

No need to nuke the plant for it. Since they dig just a couple centimeters inside the leaf, then puppate and fly out a couple weeks later. I've only seen them kill seedlings in rare occassions.
 
I hope I’m not jinxing it but this ground growing (own roots) ume’s flowers have flowered and leaves are pushing.

IMG_1677.jpegIMG_1679.jpeg

So either umes on their own roots need extra protection during winter or @Leo in N E Illinois was right about the winter hardiness on my rosemary clark was undone by taking it inside for a few days. I wish I had another ume I can experiment on but I don’t know any sellers who have ume on their own roots other than Brent but he’s all out this year. Maybe I’ll take an airlayer on this tree since its an omai-no-mama variety.
 
I hope I’m not jinxing it but this ground growing (own roots) ume’s flowers have flowered and leaves are pushing.



So either umes on their own roots need extra protection during winter or @Leo in N E Illinois was right about the winter hardiness on my rosemary clark was undone by taking it inside for a few days. I wish I had another ume I can experiment on but I don’t know any sellers who have ume on their own roots other than Brent but he’s all out this year. Maybe I’ll take an airlayer on this tree since its an omai-no-mama variety.
Different varieties have different levels of hardiness. IIRC, the red varieties tend to be more hardy than pink/white
 
Different varieties have different levels of hardiness. IIRC, the red varieties tend to be more hardy than pink/white
Interesting I have found just the opposite. Red varieties have been weaker, more difficult to propagate from cuttings and slower growth. Perhaps it is cultivar specific. Pink and white have been very hardy for me. One of the hardiest cultivars I have found is Kobai ( pink ) This is consistent with the information I received from Brent at Evergreen when I started with Ume. I had no end of difficulty with Matsumura Red.
Here is my current crop of Kobai from last years cuttings, some were spring cuttings, most were hardwood cuttings from the previous fall. Just finishing blooms and opening leaves. I provide winter protection until they are three to four years of age. Mume tend to be slow with root differentiation and I believe they need extra protection early on till well established. The first two photos show the winter hardwood cuttings and the last photo the spring cuttings. I should mention that I have already potted up these to give them lots of room for root growth in the next two years. These are all Kobai with a deep pink color shown in the last photo.
 

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Interesting I have found just the opposite. Red varieties have been weaker, more difficult to propagate from cuttings and slower growth. Perhaps it is cultivar specific. Pink and white have been very hardy for me. One of the hardiest cultivars I have found is Kobai ( pink ) This is consistent with the information I received from Brent at Evergreen when I started with Ume. I had no end of difficulty with Matsumura Red.
Here is my current crop of Kobai from last years cuttings, some were spring cuttings, most were hardwood cuttings from the previous fall. Just finishing blooms and opening leaves. I provide winter protection until they are three to four years of age. Mume tend to be slow with root differentiation and I believe they need extra protection early on till well established. The first two photos show the winter hardwood cuttings and the last photo the spring cuttings. I should mention that I have already potted up these to give them lots of room for root growth in the next two years. These are all Kobai with a deep pink color shown in the last photo.
You are probably correct. As I stated, I was not sure I was remembering correctly. With my absent minded professor brain, I may have well reversed it.
 
You are probably correct. As I stated, I was not sure I was remembering correctly. With my absent minded professor brain, I may have well reversed it.
Been there, done that. I spend a fair amount of time looking for things that I was just using a short time ago. It is amazing how creative one can be when misplacing or forgetting.
 
Patterns/tendencies regarding propagation, vigor, and hardiness can be detected based on cultivar, but not on a pink/red vs white divison

Currently working with +70 cultivars, each in relatively large batches

(my usual disclaimer: propagating unique cultivars by cutting (whether winter or may/june) is, in almost all cases, an unecessary and often counter-productive approach to creating fine prunus mume bonsai)
 
(my usual disclaimer: propagating unique cultivars by cutting (whether winter or may/june) is, in almost all cases, an unecessary and often counter-productive approach to creating fine prunus mume bonsai)
It is important to believe in what you are doing, and respect the rights of others to choose their own approach. I look forward to seeing the results of your own propagating on the market.
 
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