Me too!
Blue Atlas Cedar rehab - Inherited tree
- Thread starter Deep Sea Diver
- Start date
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Finally get to this project. Lots of after flower pruning got in the way.
First step remove the tape, raffia and cut putty
Cool tool, was mighty useful for cleaning g out the putty and roughing up the surfaces. One of those tools I need alot. Forget where I got it, sorry.
Even made one out of copper and aluminum for the dirty work!
When all else fails read the Oatley Fix it stick directions!
Use eye and hand protection and can cause allergic reaction. Product SDS link below
Packing the epoxy putty in.
Two mixes with six small applications.
Finished! The surface putty can be worked for about 10 minutes at 65F. Used this extra time to smooth out the surface
Back full Sun on the shelf. Going in morning sun open shade the rest of the summer soon.
Fingers crossed! The rest of the raffia will come off as soon as there’s more time
Cheers
DSD sends
First step remove the tape, raffia and cut putty
Cool tool, was mighty useful for cleaning g out the putty and roughing up the surfaces. One of those tools I need alot. Forget where I got it, sorry.
Even made one out of copper and aluminum for the dirty work!
When all else fails read the Oatley Fix it stick directions!
Use eye and hand protection and can cause allergic reaction. Product SDS link below
Packing the epoxy putty in.
Two mixes with six small applications.
Finished! The surface putty can be worked for about 10 minutes at 65F. Used this extra time to smooth out the surface
Back full Sun on the shelf. Going in morning sun open shade the rest of the summer soon.
Fingers crossed! The rest of the raffia will come off as soon as there’s more time
Cheers
DSD sends
Hope it does well with all that great care! Its a really nice tree. I have my three tubes at the ready when I need them...
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Nice job. Once it is fully hardened the edges can be refined and cut paste applied to heal as one would a normal scar. Look forward to seeing the ned result in a few years.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Last week finally got around to buttoning up this stage of the project.
First step was to grind down the Oakley’s epoxy to give the trunk an edge to roll over. This involved using a Moto tool to grind and a chisel/knife to shave down the edges of the Oatley’s epoxy. Also used a blade to cut a little bit off the wood to expose a clean edge.
Once dry, applied Top Jin over the wound and edges. It’s a cut paste often used on azaleas with an anti fungal. Wounds can roll under it just like cut putty. Sorta orange when dry.
After a couple days when the Top Jin hardened up completely, applied the green top cut putty. This product also has an anti fungal. At this point also removed the remainder of the Raffia.
Lastly, carefully applied wire to lay out the branches. Thankfully, the heavy wire and guy wires held the cut area immobile…. also made for some interesting wiring situations! Yet BAC smaller branches are very flexible, so this made placement easy
No attempt was made to style, only to lightly get each needle cluster laid out and branch tips up in max Sun. In addition, couple small branches were removed and others shortened at good points to make this happen.
All done for now!
Cheers
DSD sends
First step was to grind down the Oakley’s epoxy to give the trunk an edge to roll over. This involved using a Moto tool to grind and a chisel/knife to shave down the edges of the Oatley’s epoxy. Also used a blade to cut a little bit off the wood to expose a clean edge.
Once dry, applied Top Jin over the wound and edges. It’s a cut paste often used on azaleas with an anti fungal. Wounds can roll under it just like cut putty. Sorta orange when dry.
After a couple days when the Top Jin hardened up completely, applied the green top cut putty. This product also has an anti fungal. At this point also removed the remainder of the Raffia.
Lastly, carefully applied wire to lay out the branches. Thankfully, the heavy wire and guy wires held the cut area immobile…. also made for some interesting wiring situations! Yet BAC smaller branches are very flexible, so this made placement easy
No attempt was made to style, only to lightly get each needle cluster laid out and branch tips up in max Sun. In addition, couple small branches were removed and others shortened at good points to make this happen.
All done for now!
Cheers
DSD sends
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D
Deleted member 47471
Guest
How long do you think it will take to ramify the secondaries into developed tertiaries with foliage pads?
All my primaries are coated with plentiful rosettes and I know I’ll needed to prune back to have them mature into secondaries but I know I need thicker branching on my BAC (also a Cascade).
Edit: nvm I see you have little tertiaries with a rosette at the end of each one. Do you simply need more secondaries to grow near the end of your primaries to get a
shape with rosettes and pads? Trying to mentally visualize the process and technique of producing structure and pads like the BACsI see online or in exhibits/museums etc.
Last edited by a moderator:
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Good. Question.
Once the tree is robust and healthy it will periodically push out nascent tertiary branch spikes along the branches. Just let these grow vs prune them back.
Believe this can be enhanced by laying out the branches well and stopping the terminal branch tips. Along with proper fertilization…etc.
Best
DSD sends
Once the tree is robust and healthy it will periodically push out nascent tertiary branch spikes along the branches. Just let these grow vs prune them back.
Believe this can be enhanced by laying out the branches well and stopping the terminal branch tips. Along with proper fertilization…etc.
Best
DSD sends
Turning out really nice! I am looking forward to the fall to get to mine...
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
@Bonsai Forest
How long do you think it will take to ramify the secondaries into developed tertiaries with foliage pads?
…..It will depend on the health of the tree and proper pruning to create them.
All my primaries are coated with plentiful rosettes and I know I’ll needed to prune back to have them mature into secondaries but I know I need thicker branching on my BAC (also a Cascade).
…. Timing is everything. One does not want the secondaries to get as large as the primaries. However mass of foliage is key. It doesn’t matter where the foliage is placed, on the branch, the foliage will add girth to everything in the sap line below it.
Cheers
DSD sends
How long do you think it will take to ramify the secondaries into developed tertiaries with foliage pads?
…..It will depend on the health of the tree and proper pruning to create them.
All my primaries are coated with plentiful rosettes and I know I’ll needed to prune back to have them mature into secondaries but I know I need thicker branching on my BAC (also a Cascade).
…. Timing is everything. One does not want the secondaries to get as large as the primaries. However mass of foliage is key. It doesn’t matter where the foliage is placed, on the branch, the foliage will add girth to everything in the sap line below it.
Cheers
DSD sends
Last edited:
River's Edge
Masterpiece
For those following this thread, a good resource for branch structure and pad formation is within chapter seven of Principles of Bonsai Design by David De Groot. . Great clear diagrams and explanations. The information is identical in either of the two latest publications. 2015 or 2022.
The diagrams are very useful to plan initial layout and structure depending on the style of foliage pad chosen for the design. Typical choice for Blue Atlas Cedar is the platform style.
The diagrams are very useful to plan initial layout and structure depending on the style of foliage pad chosen for the design. Typical choice for Blue Atlas Cedar is the platform style.
WNC Bonsai
Masterpiece
Are you using copper or aluminum wire? For heavy bends most seem to use copper over raffia but I have also seen aluminum used because its springyness helps to protect the bark and most of the heavy bends are actually done with guy wires.
D
Deleted member 47471
Guest
I remember now I have that book. Thanks River’s Edge, I will consult the book.
D
Deleted member 47471
Guest
It seems, according to the diagrams, vertical growth directly on top of a branch is useful and/or essential for optimal layering and concentric rings of rosettes/pads. Does it make a difference if one uses branching growing between top/vertical and directly lateral for pad density?
River's Edge
Masterpiece
It depends on the style of pad formation. As long as the light and air can circulate freely the long term health and appearance of the pad will stand up. It will make a difference if the foliage is shaded. Density from the side profile is most important in either the layered pad or platform pad. Note how it is very important for light and air to maintain the health and longevity of the design. Be careful to avoid congestion and too much density, the result of this will be continual internal dieback and the need to grow out and cutback way too often. Better to lean toward a lighter composition with openness from below and above. Also sufficient distance between branches to avoid too much shading of lower pads. A good design is one that promotes healthy foliage.
Just a few comments to clarify. The diagrams clearly depict the openness one should strive for.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
@WNC Bonsai,
Are you using copper or aluminum wire?
… copper wire. copper is usually used for conifers
For heavy bends most use copper over raffia but I have also seen aluminum used because its springyness helps to protect the bark and most of the heavy bends are actually done with guy wires.
….Yes. Usually prior to a heavy bend folks cover the area with raffia. Then wire over the raffia to both protect and facilitate the bend and then secure the bend with a guy wire to a secure anchorage.
….. Haven’t seen this application. Aluminum wire tends to stretch under stress and is generally used for special applications. This quality allows the wire to bend easily and lay softly on certain thin bark species like maples and azaleas.
Cheers
DSD sends
Are you using copper or aluminum wire?
… copper wire. copper is usually used for conifers
For heavy bends most use copper over raffia but I have also seen aluminum used because its springyness helps to protect the bark and most of the heavy bends are actually done with guy wires.
….Yes. Usually prior to a heavy bend folks cover the area with raffia. Then wire over the raffia to both protect and facilitate the bend and then secure the bend with a guy wire to a secure anchorage.
….. Haven’t seen this application. Aluminum wire tends to stretch under stress and is generally used for special applications. This quality allows the wire to bend easily and lay softly on certain thin bark species like maples and azaleas.
Cheers
DSD sends
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Everything depends upon the design. Until the design is set, one really doesn’t know which foliage to trim, so one has to keep options available, but also margin a healthy set of branches.
Here’s an example of a heirloom BAC bonsaii at PBM. Note the pad design and density on a this large tree.
Cheers
DSD sends
