Lovely BAC and nice clean work you are doing. I have a question. I am acquiring a BAC (3-4 years of age I think) that is roughly 3+feet tall and will have plentiful branches. In terms of the secondary branches that grow off the primaries, how do I prevent them from elongating too much? I don't want the foliage pads to be too far or too high off of the primary branch. How to keep short secondary and tertiary growth?Second Effort today. Looked up a Bonsai Jacks as @River's Edge suggest and almost pulled the trigger. First went outside and thought through the situation… Testing the tree, discovered bending wasn’t the only issue.
The angle of pull on the guy wire was one issue So tested this idea by using a 5mm wire aluminum wire around the ‘tail’ midway down and across the pot. Then pulled the tail into position towards the pot. Tail came into position.. Then retied the guy wire. After releasing the aluminum wire the tail went out again, but not as much.
So guy wire angle is part of the issue. Ran a second guy wire and tied this off, then tightened the initial guy wire . (Using the aluminum wire to assist again) The result was much better. Tail still not straight down, but much better. See below.
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Need to reposition the lower guy wire and finish the job. Am going to wait awhile before the next effort as things are very busy staging for wintering over.
Until then the tree is in the ‘cold’ greenhouse.
Cheers
DSD sends
Ouch! I think I’ll go at it the old fashioned way and just change the angle gently over a couple of years. I have seen folks do bends by making a series of cuts halfway through the trunk and then cranking it over but even that seems too radical for these trees. I don’t seeing any signs of buds popping on the tree is it still dormant or just waking?Not so great news.
Got advice from a pro to use Mas Imazumi method of creating a tight bend in a BAC ….taking an appropriately sized drill, 3/16 for this trunk, and drill ar position of the bend, to give tight bend. It sure gave a tight bend, as with only light test pressure the top of the tree cracked. In retrospect, should have thought about this one! Live and learn.
Faulty on my part but the tree sure has a tight bend! Only down huge side is the tree is at risk and has 30% chance of making a viable bonsai here on out. In any event, if it does survive it will likely be 3-5 or more years before this crack heals. See area to right of 4th double turn of wire.
Tree looks good now, but it’s spring, what well kept tree doesnt look good in Spring? Summer is the run. That’s when the game is afoot!
More on the tree’s health over time.
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cheers
DSD sends
Not necessarily, once it begins to heal on the edges it can be treated like a cavity.Remove the cut paste and fill with two part epoxy carefully, shape the outside to just below the cambium line and heal over the edges as one would a normal scar from branch removal. When the epoxy hardens it fixes in tightly with the broken tissue. This particular break has lots of fibre to mesh with the epoxy and hold tight when the epoxy hardens. One of the better epoxies to use is Oatey Fix It Stick.No matter what you do a break like that on the upper side of the bend, will persist as a weak spot. Even if it does heal over you’ll still have a big plug of putty under the bark and I would be afraid any downward pressure could snap it. Hoping for the best!
Looking good. Mine is still extending and I plan to do so e bending in August, but until then I’ll just let it grow and beef up. Do you have it in full sun right now?I have seen some soirces that say full sun whereas others say they can take light shade.Spring flush is just about finished. Been almost four months since the tree was cracked. Two months since last post.
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As expected the tree is doing well at this point. The pressure test will be summer - early fall dry season
As discussed, the tree will be relocated to get morning sun once the temperatures rise.
Thinking to wait until fall to epoxy the crack. Oatey Fix It Stick is now on hand. Any thoughts? @River's Edge?
Cheers
DSD sends
Love the color of the foliage of these.
Wish ones good for bonsai were easier to find. I always look when I nursery crawl but have yet to find a good one.
Hope this one survives. Will be a nice tree if it does.
I would carefully remove the raffia at this point, It has done its job and the bark will remain healthier if exposed. If I was able to access the crack without disturbing the wiring, I would pack the crack carefully with epoxy to stabilize the area and strengthen it for long term. This will also stabilize the position mores for when you decide to remove the wire. I see you have it nicely anchored so removing the raffia and packing the crack should be safe.Spring flush is just about finished. Been almost four months since the tree was cracked. Two months since last post.
View attachment 549150
As expected the tree is doing well at this point. The pressure test will be summer - early fall dry season
As discussed, the tree will be relocated to get morning sun once the temperatures rise.
Thinking to wait until fall to epoxy the crack. Oatey Fix It Stick is now on hand. Any thoughts? @River's Edge?
Cheers
DSD send
I would carefully remove the raffia..
Those are my thoughts! the crack can be packed slowly with smaller pieces at s time and lots of patience.