Acer palmatum

[ConorDash]

Is there a scale infestation on the tree?

That's what I'm thinking, too.
Did you happen to read this thread of @Smoke 's?
It's about trident Maples but I think can give you a way to go for your palmatum, too.
I am following these instructions for mine.

No, no scale. Why do you ask?

And which thread? I may well have done.

 

[my nellie]

Sorry... I forgot the link to the thread choppers cutters and wishful thinking

I am asking about scale because of those white spots/bulges/pimples sticking on some branches (photos #3 and #4)

 

[ConorDash]

So I’ve stopped for today. Using this as ref:



There’s a lot of branches coming out of the area... number 1 I just want to remove. If this view is a potential front, it’s coming out at you and I just don’t think it fits well.
Red is the leader that I’ve cut back but to be honest I think I should remove entirely. There’s a same size branch behind (it was the one with many coming out of it in previous pic) and I think I should use that...


This is the big guy I would prefer as leader.. had 5 coming out of it but now 3, not able to decide what more to remove..

Argh.. whole experience has not been what I thought it would be after 2.5 years. I need to remove more, just complete lack of confidence in it after that. Most branch need cutting back short, on an elm I wouldn’t think twice, but on this it would leave barely any leaves and I simply don’t know if this species back buds like that.




There are big branches which need repositioning with wire. I did one, think it’ll damage the very soft green bark but had to do something.. got raffia but never used it before.

 

[ConorDash]

Sorry... I forgot the link to the thread choppers cutters and wishful thinking

I am asking about scale because of those white spots/bulges/pimples sticking on some branches (photos #3 and #4)

Oh, I see now.. hmm no idea. They aren’t bugs, they are hard bumps. I thought just part of the bark slowly starting to mature. Never seen them before.. I wasn’t concerned, I’ve no idea what that is.
Will read thread now.

I’m back, after reading.. I understand but not sure how it helps my current situation :/.
I’ve gone over this so many times.. reading, watching, talking about my maple, pruning, what to aim for.. I know what I’m aiming for but for some reason it’s just not clicked how to get there. I don’t usually have such big problems with things in life.. I’m not a unintelligent person, but this, damn I feel so stupid.
The penny dropped with elms, I feel comfortable with them and my work and experience with them can now grow but maples, I can’t get a foot hold.

If anyone is bored enough to read all these past few posts, see if you can give me the key I needs.

 

[RobertB]

Oh, I see now.. hmm no idea. They aren’t bugs, they are hard bumps. I thought just part of the bark slowly starting to mature. Never seen them before.. I wasn’t concerned, I’ve no idea what that is.
Will read thread now.

I’m back, after reading.. I understand but not sure how it helps my current situation :/.
I’ve gone over this so many times.. reading, watching, talking about my maple, pruning, what to aim for.. I know what I’m aiming for but for some reason it’s just not clicked how to get there. I don’t usually have such big problems with things in life.. I’m not a unintelligent person, but this, damn I feel so stupid.
The penny dropped with elms, I feel comfortable with them and my work and experience with them can now grow but maples, I can’t get a foot hold.

If anyone is bored enough to read all these past few posts, see if you can give me the key I needs.

that cut that is healing over is rather bulky. Around what size diameter was that when you cut? Just curious... You have any plans for that wound, like trimming back and wrapping with something? Tree is awesome though!

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Cut back hard enough, keep some green. Backbudding will happen. Let it harden and in call you can cut back further leaving growing branches. You might need to let it grow for half a year next year to build strength and repeat. Cutting way back is the other option with sometimes good results.

 

[Ingvill]

I'm happy you finally made some cuts, @ConorDash , regardless of how you feel about it at the moment.
Following development and hoping you'll find your way with this cool tree

 

[BobbyLane]

i do think its better to work, style and take pics of trees with the back of the pot at eye level. from the angles being posted some of the branches look like theyre crossing but looking from base level it all could appear much different.

here's an example,
20180524_125812 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

this is close enough to the angle you want to be working and styling the tree from.
if i had took photos from some of the angles youre using some of the branches would look like theyre crossing. i think its tricky for people to give correct advice and why most folk would choose to have the tree in front of them rather than comment. just my thoughts

 

[ConorDash]

i do think its better to work, style and take pics of trees with the back of the pot at eye level. from the angles being posted some of the branches look like theyre crossing but looking from base level it all could appear much different.

here's an example,
20180524_125812 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

this is close enough to the angle you want to be working and styling the tree from.
if i had took photos from some of the angles youre using some of the branches would look like theyre crossing. i think its tricky for people to give correct advice and why most folk would choose to have the tree in front of them rather than comment. just my thoughts

Yeh I gotcha, sorry, I didnt think of it.

And a lot of the bigger branches are crossing, yes. Rather horribly.
Its something I have to resolve, with wire hopefully but bark is very soft so maybe raffia.

Cut back hard enough, keep some green. Backbudding will happen. Let it harden and in call you can cut back further leaving growing branches. You might need to let it grow for half a year next year to build strength and repeat. Cutting way back is the other option with sometimes good results.

Cheers, yes I will do that. All the growth is on the last 1/4 of the branch so its gonna be really annoying to cut back and leave some, then let grow, cut back again.... and again... All just inching down the branch.
Or I could be risky and cut back to no leaves, but nodes.. rely on the health or vigor of the maple to back bud. Risky business though!

 

[ConorDash]

i do think its better to work, style and take pics of trees with the back of the pot at eye level. from the angles being posted some of the branches look like theyre crossing but looking from base level it all could appear much different.

here's an example,
20180524_125812 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

this is close enough to the angle you want to be working and styling the tree from.
if i had took photos from some of the angles youre using some of the branches would look like theyre crossing. i think its tricky for people to give correct advice and why most folk would choose to have the tree in front of them rather than comment. just my thoughts

Actually I remember not doing this simply cos it’s a mess, you can’t see much.
Really difficult to represent the tree with pics.. and equally, get your guys opinions cos you can’t see it!

 

[BobbyLane]

tbh ive never seen anyone using raffia on a maple. dont complicate things mate. just wire with care and watch it doesnt bite in as the tree is growing through the season. yes its common practice to work your trees at the level you would exibit the tree to get a proper feel, more accurate styling advice can then be given if photos are taken at that angle. simple really

 

[Gustavo Martins]

I think you are overthinking all this stuff. Try it. Cut it. Let it grow and learn the tree. You already know enough.

 

[ConorDash]

Alright, I feel a little better but lets see how criticism goes. I did some wiring, large branches that were crossing, they aren't quite in the position I'd like but it was the best I got for now. Hopefully can move more at a later date.
Disclaimer:
First proper wiring job, its not great. And there are multiple gaps where the wire should press stug with the wood but it doesn't, I see it... Just couldnt quite make it better without damaging. It was the limit of bravery!

DSC_0054 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0051 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_0055 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

There are a number of things I still need to address, whether they be cutting back further (pretty much ALL of it needs cutting back further) or with wire, but please do tell me your impressions.

 

[ConorDash]

One of my main problem is this big load of primary branches near the top.

DSC_0057_LI by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

Red is currently the leader, chopped back a good bit but tbh, Im thinking or removing it (although its currently helping to heal the largest scan). Blue has 3 coming out of 1 point and is already a knuckle (it did have 5), I need to do something about that, not sure what though. It is a better looking leader than red is though. The greens are other branches which I am ok with, just need wiring and back budding so i can cut back further.

This is blue closer up:


You can see its knuckle and not good looking! Advice on addressing on that, greatly welcomed..

This guy:


I cut back and was debating, debating... its now gone.



Long branches:
I need to cut back EVERYTHING more, but am playing safe. I like Dirks advice on this one: Message. I have a few long branches which I have cut back to NO leaves, they are my tests, see how they go. Most of the others have been cut back to their first or second set of leaves. They need to back bud so I can cut back further, safely, without die back. Currently not a big need for wire because most branches will be cut back. I have wired where some big branches because there were multiple crossing over and have tried my best to address it.

So these guys:


Super LONG, cut back to no leaves, will see if they backbud, will teach me more about my tree and its behaviour.

Wire:
There are gaps where it doesnt fit snug but I did my best. As I went along, I remembered the sling shot to place around 2 branches, anchoring and trying to wire in 45degree angles. I have found that I should have put the sling shot on the other side of some branches, for example:


Something like this, I was quite happy with:



Well, thats that. If anyone takes the time to read this and give me your time in opinions, suggestions, criticisms, I will owe you a drink. It can be claimed anytime you come within 75 miles of London (life time agree, including Bobby).

 

[ConorDash]

Oh, also took the chance to practice wiring!





The last one was very thin but was happy with how wiring went, probably easier on a branch not attached to a tree though! But went well, so easy to bend compared to the large ones I was bending on the tree.

 

[barrosinc]

There are a number of things I still need to address, whether they be cutting back further (pretty much ALL of it needs cutting back further) or with wire, but please do tell me your impressions.

you said it all.

DSC_0055 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

the branch pointing up needs to go.

Get the tree as vigorous as possible and do a large cutback for next spring to get major back budding. You can play it safe and leave a node at each branch... but you will be forever chasing the growth back if you don't.

 

[Lazylightningny]

A lot of your branches are long and straight, lacking taper. My thoughts are to prune them back to begin building branch taper.

 

[Smoke]

A lot of your branches are long and straight, lacking taper. My thoughts are to prune them back to begin building branch taper.

Maple branches on this forum all look long and straight because people are not pruning enough after bud break. All the energy stored up in the plant from winter is used up in about 6 weeks. Most of this forum doesn't start pruning maples till after about 12 weeks and wonder why they can't make a decent tree quickly. This is not hard stuff.

 

[RobertB]

Maple branches on this forum all look long and straight because people are not pruning enough after bud break. All the energy stored up in the plant from winter is used up in about 6 weeks. Most of this forum doesn't start pruning maples till after about 12 weeks and wonder why they can't make a decent tree quickly. This is not hard stuff.

By no means am i even a .0001% as successful at bonsai as you (and about the same with experience) but it does seem like the point of attachment of alot of these branches needs to thicken a little, or at least that would be my preference (and brought down slowly with some guid wires). If he starts building ramification now, will the branch continue to thicken?

Also, i am a little unclear about your post above. I am very interested though. If we prune a maple, or Japanese maple after bud break, we will get a longer growth period? I would think a shorter period. I am confused but very interested as i know you have a ton of experience in maples.

 

[Smoke]

By no means am i even a .0001% as successful at bonsai as you (and about the same with experience) but it does seem like the point of attachment of alot of these branches needs to thicken a little, or at least that would be my preference (and brought down slowly with some guid wires). If he starts building ramification now, will the branch continue to thicken?

Also, i am a little unclear about your post above. I am very interested though. If we prune a maple, or Japanese maple after bud break, we will get a longer growth period? I would think a shorter period. I am confused but very interested as i know you have a ton of experience in maples.

Did I miss something? I don't remember anyone talking about ramification? Did someone mention that and I missed it.