Acer palmatum

[dirk hoorelbeke]

I think you've done a great job letting this one get strong. I like the virtual of @AlainK and @BobbyLane (maybe without the branch in the inside of the curve). The nebari is somewhat oddly shaped and would go better with the image of BobbyLane. The development of the nebari would dictate what to do with it. Try to improve it as much as you can while the tree is full power. That would be my first concern. Airlayering is an option to keep in mind if you want to make it better and enhance the low movement. I would repot, look if you are happy with the development of the base. Put it on a board or layer it in mid spring. For the cutback, i do the big cuts most often in fall or summer since sap loss is minimal at that time.

 

[MACH5]

Conor, for me I like the direction Alain suggested. As Dirk said, you may have to air layer it to really improve the nebari.

 

[ConorDash]

Is this a standard palmatum or cultivar?

Just Acer Palmatum, green leaf. I think green is what they call the standard ones. No cultivar.
Why do you as? Out of curiousity.

 

[M. Frary]

I like Bobby's idea but lose the lowest branch.
As for the wire across the root,I wouldn't worry too much. If it starts to bite in cut it. The tree will have enough roots to hold the tree by then.
I like this tree a bit. So what if the taper is negligible. You could grow a decent tree without chopping it back.

 

[JudyB]

These are two totally different approaches between Alain and Bobby. If you can't decide, then perhaps this is the year to airlayer and get rid of branching that doesn't work for either scenario. Better to wait to do a radical reduction if you don't have a direction for development, and work on other areas while you think on it.

 

[Timbo]

I gave up on worrying about wiring the roots, i keep scaring up the roots/trunk. I just tie down or set rocks on the ones i repot now. I suppose they could be knocked over, but i haven't had much issue the last few years.

 

[ConorDash]

I like Bobby's idea but lose the lowest branch.
As for the wire across the root,I wouldn't worry too much. If it starts to bite in cut it. The tree will have enough roots to hold the tree by then.
I like this tree a bit. So what if the taper is negligible. You could grow a decent tree without chopping it back.

Thanks Mike .

These are two totally different approaches between Alain and Bobby. If you can't decide, then perhaps this is the year to airlayer and get rid of branching that doesn't work for either scenario. Better to wait to do a radical reduction if you don't have a direction for development, and work on other areas while you think on it.

Good idea, thank you. I will have a good look at it shortly and see where the moment takes me. Although not that experienced, I still think simply looking at the tree in front of me, will spur on ideas and action.

 

[ConorDash]

ConorDash, I love where this one is going. Reminds me of my favorite tree, that gorgeous Kashima by Mach5!

I gave up on worrying about wiring the roots, i keep scaring up the roots/trunk. I just tie down or set rocks on the ones i repot now. I suppose they could be knocked over, but i haven't had much issue the last few years.

Thanks guys. I’ll take a look at the wire, if there’s even the slightest indication that it’s overly tight, then I’ll remove it but I’ll probabky leave it. I don’t think it’s doing any damage.

 

[M. Frary]

So what's the plan Conor?

 

[ConorDash]

So what's the plan Conor?

I think, now I’ve got your guys’ thiughts and opinions, I’ll get the tree in front of me and look at it properly. Weigh things up.
At the very least, if I don’t do anything major, I can thin out the crown to let more light in and remove branches which are obviously bad + where multiple are growing from same spot.
I’m more on side of Bobby’s approach.

That low branch, I feel removing it would give the trunk a better appearance, a smooth trunk all the way up. But at same time, it’s a big of a rule breaker in my mind and most people don’t like it, which makes me like it lol. I’d love to thicken it up so it can bring out the canopy but I think it’d take a long long time to do that...

What do you think of this immediate plan?
One thing for sure, I gotta man up and not be afraid.

 

[M. Frary]

I think it’d take a long long time to do that

You might be surprised. It might not be as long as you think.
I think it's a good plan you have.
And remember you can always cut it off later if you don't like it.

 

[BobbyLane]

someone said remove the branch on the inside curve....i still dont see this branch, i dont see any guidlines being broken here correct me if im wrong. the low branches on the left are not rule breakers from my knowledge. i believe you are being told to remove them solely for design purposes.

 

[BobbyLane]

ConorDash, I love where this one is going. Reminds me of my favorite tree, that gorgeous Kashima by Mach5!

That particular tree has a low...ish left branch situated like the one on conar's tree https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/kashima-maple.22311/

now if you were to go informal upright, which is still a decent call, i would still consider the yellow lines as the tempo setters for this material, especially if going for a more interesting asymmetrical design rather than the bog standard pattern someone posted. just my thoughts. use the tree to its full potential

i took an asymmetrical approach with my hornbeam
IMG_6496 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

the material gives you those options to maximise such traits

you need to know what youre doing and 'why' youre doing it.
personally, i wouldnt bother with ground layering because i believe not every tree has to have an outstanding nebari. in future though, just buy better material where the basics are already in place.
i wonder if you could cover some of the right root or tilt the tree to the right a tad so the flare at the base is more balanced, might help the overall image. maybe in the growing season you could try dressing the surface in spag moss and making some precise cuts around the base and you may induce some new roots.

 

[Timbo]

Cutting the left side branch off and letting the tiny branch grow, might help build taper...just a thought.

 

[ConorDash]

That particular tree has a low...ish left branch situated like the one on conar's tree https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/kashima-maple.22311/

now if you were to go informal upright, which is still a decent call, i would still consider the yellow lines as the tempo setters for this material, especially if going for a more interesting asymmetrical design rather than the bog standard pattern someone posted. just my thoughts. use the tree to its full potential

i took an asymmetrical approach with my hornbeam
IMG_6496 by Bobby Lane, on Flickr

the material gives you those options to maximise such traits

you need to know what youre doing and 'why' youre doing it.
personally, i wouldnt bother with ground layering because i believe not every tree has to have an outstanding nebari. in future though, just buy better material where the basics are already in place.
i wonder if you could cover some of the right root or tilt the tree to the right a tad so the flare at the base is more balanced, might help the overall image. maybe in the growing season you could try dressing the surface in spag moss and making some precise cuts around the base and you may induce some new roots.

I could certainly try the rooting with moss. It can’t hurt. I do already have it all covered with moss though. I like it with moss covering the surface. I believe it’s improved it’s health and in hotter months, the benefits are good.

I will have a good look at it soon . Thank you.
I will bear in mind why I’m cutting each branch, as I do it. Otherwise I am just senselessly pruning.

 

[my nellie]

All were well said!
However, if I'm allowed I would also like to add that one must have in mind the stage of tree (re the video of Graham posted).
I mean pruning is different with trees in development as opposed to trees in their refining phase.

 

[ConorDash]

All were well said!
However, if I'm allowed I would also like to add that one must have in mind the stage of tree (re the video of Graham posted).
I mean pruning is different with trees in development as opposed to trees in their refining phase.

For sure. Most videos I do see are about developing and refining, but for this tree, I don’t believe those branches are in place yet or at least certainly not ready for those kinds of techniques.
That graham video that bobby posted, I have watched a good load of times, as I have many other videos.. but applying them practically to your own trees, which are completely different, is not something I can just pick up and do after a few videos lol

 

[ConorDash]

Doing this thing..
Currently doing it, crown is off..



I’ve a question, if anyone has an answer.
A lot of the branches have a load of leaves on the second half or last 1/4 of them, I know this is natural. However, things like this:



The thing I gotta get my head around is, can I simply cut these back, to the nodes? Nodes in blue.
With an elm, of course and I think maple as a deciduous, I can also do this but it’ll be leaving barely any leaves on the tree overall.
Can anyone to tell that that is fine to do?

Also, this is so busy:



I gotta sort it out. Just trying to figure out which I keep and which I don’t. Overall, I’m not sure it matters cos most of this growth has all gotta go to be regrown. There’s no branches down low on the primary branches, needs back budding.

 

[ConorDash]

And this big guy!



Gotta get rid of all but 2.. way too many branches at one place! I actually like this primary as a new leader instead of my current leader.. but I don’t think I’ve gotta make that decision now.

 

[my nellie]

Is there a scale infestation on the tree?

... ... Overall, I’m not sure it matters cos most of this growth has all gotta go to be regrown. There’s no branches down low on the primary branches, needs back budding.

That's what I'm thinking, too.
Did you happen to read this thread of @Smoke 's?
It's about trident Maples but I think can give you a way to go for your palmatum, too.
I am following these instructions for mine.