What’s your latest Bonsai related purchase?

Picked up some kiln dried black walnut. Going to try my hand on making some giant stands for the larger trees.

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Not sure of your experience in woodworking, but I've been playing with English walnut for a couple years from a dead tree in my dad's yard.
Beautiful grain. Very dense wood when going across the grain, but can split along the grain relatively easily. This makes it tricky to work large sections like you have there. Doesn't swell with humidity as much as other common woods.
You'll notice a hollow spot at the very heart. That's leftover from the pith that fills the centers of the saplings. It never quite closes up. Makes for problems trying to get a wide slice across the center.

Just a heads up from a guy who learned it the hard way.
 
You'll notice a hollow spot at the very heart. That's leftover from the pith that fills the centers of the saplings. It never quite closes up. Makes for problems trying to get a wide slice across the center.
You can always stabilize it with either CA glue or epoxy resin. I have used Fibre Glast System 1000 with very good results. Not the cheapest, but I think that any decent epoxy resin with low viscosity and low to no amber color will work as well.

For spalted woods I rather use a very low viscosity CA glue, no activator. I have used this to stabilize spalted maple for sanding, it requires multiple applications once you sand through the hardened area, but it will save your sanity vs having the rotted areas rolled out with the sand paper.
 
Not sure of your experience in woodworking, but I've been playing with English walnut for a couple years from a dead tree in my dad's yard.
Beautiful grain. Very dense wood when going across the grain, but can split along the grain relatively easily. This makes it tricky to work large sections like you have there. Doesn't swell with humidity as much as other common woods.
You'll notice a hollow spot at the very heart. That's leftover from the pith that fills the centers of the saplings. It never quite closes up. Makes for problems trying to get a wide slice across the center.

Just a heads up from a guy who learned it the hard way.
I've worked with a few hardwoods before but this is the first black walnut attempt.

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I had seen a few guys bridge the hollow spot with a couple of dovetail dowels to strengthen gap. Piqued my curiosity enough to grab these pieces to try it out!
 
I've worked with a few hardwoods before but this is the first black walnut attempt.

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I had seen a few guys bridge the hollow spot with a couple of dovetail dowels to strengthen gap. Piqued my curiosity enough to grab these pieces to try it out!
Cool! Let us know how it goes.
I'm still very much a novice, but I'm hoping to have the wherewithal to get some more practice this year after I've caught up the house, maybe get more in the way of actual building done vs just carving.
 
I had seen a few guys bridge the hollow spot with a couple of dovetail dowels to strengthen gap
That can be done as well, it all depends on the cosmetic and design you are going for. The "new thing" was filling with clear epoxy once you clean out the bark or decayed wood from the cracks, now they use black epoxy, which to me nullifies any benefit or aesthetics of having a "live edge" on the tree. The "butterfly spline" looks more traditional.
 
That can be done as well, it all depends on the cosmetic and design you are going for. The "new thing" was filling with clear epoxy once you clean out the bark or decayed wood from the cracks, now they use black epoxy, which to me nullifies any benefit or aesthetics of having a "live edge" on the tree. The "butterfly spline" looks more traditional.
Have you ever attempted using marine glue? I had heard of a few woodworkers having success with it but I’ve not personally used it.
 
Have you ever attempted using marine glue? I had heard of a few woodworkers having success with it but I’ve not personally used it.
Not really. If I have something that will be subject to constant moisture I use Titebond III. But have not used it to stabilize wood. Remember most glues are "rubber" or some sort of urethane based. The CA and Epoxy cure hard and the joint will be solid, something you want while working it.
 
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