WARREN HILL JAPANESE MAPLE CLUMP

Hi Mach,

I read that when thread grafting it is advisable to use a branch that is lower on the trunk than the hole that is being drilled. I noticed that you used a branch that is above the hole, with success! Can I please ask if there there are any precautions to take when breaking what I thought was a 'rule'?

Thank you
D


Hi Derek. I was not aware that was a "rule". I guess it's not anymore LOL! But seriously, I have seen many thread grafts going down as well. In part because sometimes you have no other choice. In my case, the thinking was that it was an apical branch with extreme vigor. In addition the exit portion was wired straight up so the chances of any weakening from lowering the branch was minimal if at all. In choosing a branch to use for grafting, my main concern, aside from the health of the tree itself, is the vigor of the branch being used.
 
Sorry. I accidentally clicked something:D

Hi Derek. I was not aware that was a "rule". I guess it's not anymore LOL! But seriously, I have seen many thread grafts going down as well. In part because sometimes you have no other choice. In my case, the thinking was that it was an apical branch with extreme vigor. In addition the exit portion was wired straight up so the chances of any weakening from lowering the branch was minimal if at all. In choosing a branch to use for grafting, my main concern, aside from the health of the tree itself, is the vigor of the branch being used.

Thank you both for your kind help! It was my understanding that this had more to do with the flow inside the branch being grafted, but (clearly!) this poses no issue at all!

Thank you!
D
 
Thank you both for your kind help! It was my understanding that this had more to do with the flow inside the branch being grafted, but (clearly!) this poses no issue at all!

Thank you!
D


Of course no problem! When you lower a branch, it tends to weaken to varying degrees. Tree wants to go up not down. As a small trick and ensure your threaded branch stays as vigorous as possible you can always wire the tip of it straight up.
 
Thank you!
D
 
Thanks Juds! Perhaps I can. Honestly it does not bug me... at least not yet! I will keep this in mind when I work/wire it again next year and see where I am with it. I can see in nature this little trunk being pushed way out in search of light by the bigger trunks. I would like however to scar its base so that it swells up to create more flare at its collar and a better transition into the parent trunk.

Hi MACH5 - loving this tree. I am a bit of a sucker for clumps too and am trying to develop a 5 trunk Trident Maple. I am very interested in what you say "would like however to scar its base so that it swells up to create more flare at its collar and a better transition into the parent trunk" How do you go about this? What is involved? (Hope you don't mind me asking?)

Many thanks,

Andy
 
Hey Mach. Where have you got to with this Maple? Would love to know what this is looking like now

Andy
 
Don't you know the @MACH5 rule by now? No update for over a year =SOLD!


LOL yep ya got it!


Hey Mach. Where have you got to with this Maple? Would love to know what this is looking like now

Andy


Sorry Andy I never got your question from back in 2017! For trunk thickening you might be interested in this thread where I am doing something similar. Specially look into the last two pages of that thread.

 
Yes baby I'm back!

Well indeed it is. Happy to see this tree back in my garden. I sold it in 2019 to someone that eventually got out of the hobby. Ended up at the Bonsai Shack nursery in Pomona, NY and when I saw there for sale I made a trade for it. If you care, please see thread from the beginning to understand how the design ended up here.

Below is the tree as purchased. For whatever reason the thread graft I made on the larger trunk was either cut off or died back and a big scar was left facing the viewer. Improving this area will be a major focus next year as I continue to develop this bonsai.

The nebari is quite good all around although it will need some root grafts in the front as a few key roots died back probably from excessive dehydration. So that will need to be addressed as well.

I like where this is going since the tree reminds me of how many old sugar maples in the northeast grow forming several large sub-trunks that come out low from the main trunk. It's also much more compact and with far better taper.

Below is the tree as purchased back in November of this year. It is potted in a European container that I have not yet being able to ID.

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The tree after the work.

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A quick digital sketch of future vision. Estimated time 8 to 10 years from now.

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Evolution of the tree since 2015.

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I'm pleased to see that you got this one back. I didn't understand why you let go of it. It has amazing bones, especially after you had chopped it down and compacted the design. Are there any plans to put it in a larger container to speed up the growth of that left-hand trunk?
 
Looking great Sergio! I always feel some sadness when you sell a tree because I know we won't get to watch it's development any more. Of course we cant just hang on to everything.. lol.

Any chance we could see an update on the trunk that you were thickening with vertical scars?
 
Looking great Sergio! I always feel some sadness when you sell a tree because I know we won't get to watch it's development any more. Of course we cant just hang on to everything.. lol.

Any chance we could see an update on the trunk that you were thickening with vertical scars?


Hi Dan. Here are a couple of pics. It has gotten so much better since last time I saw it. Time will keep blending it in. However, I now do small punctures rather than vertical cuts.

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I now do small punctures rather than vertical cuts.

Ever since I saw you do that in Bjorn's maple I have been thinking about trying it. Have you considered or thought about covering the are with HVAC putty so the cut marks don't develop the hard edge or dried up cambium? I thought about callousmate, but I don't think I want anything that would induce excessive callous formation as it would make it look bad.
 
Ever since I saw you do that in Bjorn's maple I have been thinking about trying it. Have you considered or thought about covering the are with HVAC putty so the cut marks don't develop the hard edge or dried up cambium? I thought about callousmate, but I don't think I want anything that would induce excessive callous formation as it would make it look bad.

Sure, I suppose that you can use cut paste. I dd not bother since eventually it will all blend in as the tree ages. The edges of the dry bark will fall off naturally or can be scraped off.

Personally I do not recommend Karusmate (Callous Mate) for use with Japanese maples when making final cuts. It encourages too strong of cell division and oftentimes results in excessive callous tissue resulting in less than ideal wound closing. Fine for some other species however.

If you go ahead and decide to experiment with puncturing the cambium, be aware that the process needs to be repeated every so often before you can see results. It is not a one time deal.
 
So Sergio, other than the obvious comments on you having another incredible tree, my main question is, did you make a profit after selling the tree in 2019 and rebuying it in 2023? Lol
 
So Sergio, other than the obvious comments on you having another incredible tree, my main question is, did you make a profit after selling the tree in 2019 and rebuying it in 2023? Lol

I would say no. It was a supposed to be an "even" trade and in my opinion the tree I traded (not a maple) was better than this one. However, the way I looked at it is this tree spoke to me far more than the other. And in the future this one will be a much better bonsai than the one I gave up. But someone else would probably say it was me who lost in that "even" trade since this maple still needs a lot of development and flaws that need to be corrected.
 
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