The 2024 Yamadori/Collecting Thread

I walked through a grove of near death oaks and selected the smallest one to save.
8” trunk live oak collection. As weak as the tree was and the drastic prune necessary to remove the dead circling roots. It is very dogtful that the tree would live.
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Tree is surely dead but a root sprout managed to live on.IMG_3575.jpeg
 
Went and walked for an hour and a half on an 80 acre property I got permission to hunt trees on this year. I was too busy being amazed to take photos...but did snap a few. Typical Kentucky shallow topsoil on top of clay which makes for some really amazing radial roots.

Can't wait for spring!

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New here, from Southeast Louisiana (on the zone 8b/9a line) - been lurking the forum for a very long time though. Tons of great information here.

Today I had the opportunity to walk some family property, particularly a location that is about to be cut. I found a few small parsley hawthorns (Crataegus marshallii, quite uncommon here), a couple of them were in the cutting path, so I collected them.

It seems that most of the roots were left intact, although not as many fine roots as I would like. The native soil was a crumbly, loamy clay that fell off of the root system, despite digging quite a large hole around it.

I lightly washed the roots (pictured) and potted it in a box with bonsai soil (mix of pumice, lava, and expanded shale), a little bit of spaghnum, and placed it in the shade.

Is there anything else I should do to maximize recovery chances? What signs should I watch out for to indicate success/failure? I don't typically collect outside of Spring.
 

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New here, from Southeast Louisiana (on the zone 8b/9a line) - been lurking the forum for a very long time though. Tons of great information here.

Today I had the opportunity to walk some family property, particularly a location that is about to be cut. I found a few small parsley hawthorns (Crataegus marshallii, quite uncommon here), a couple of them were in the cutting path, so I collected them.

It seems that most of the roots were left intact, although not as many fine roots as I would like. The native soil was a crumbly, loamy clay that fell off of the root system, despite digging quite a large hole around it.

I lightly washed the roots (pictured) and potted it in a box with bonsai soil (mix of pumice, lava, and expanded shale), a little bit of spaghnum, and placed it in the shade.

Is there anything else I should do to maximize recovery chances? What signs should I watch out for to indicate success/failure? I don't typically collect outside of Spring.

Humidity goes a long way toward helping trees with damaged roots. That's why greenhouses are so useful. In Louisiana, I'm assuming the weather is pretty humid, so you've got that going for you.

Also, fall isn't an ideal time to be collecting trees. No harm done, since the land would be cleared anyway, but protect the roots from freezing temperatures to improve the trees' chances.
 
Humidity goes a long way toward helping trees with damaged roots. That's why greenhouses are so useful. In Louisiana, I'm assuming the weather is pretty humid, so you've got that going for you.

Also, fall isn't an ideal time to be collecting trees. No harm done, since the land would be cleared anyway, but protect the roots from freezing temperatures to improve the trees' chances.
Thanks. Yes there is certainly no shortage of humidity here in SELA. I prefer to collect in late winter/early Spring, but these were going to get disked anyway, which is unfortunate because the larger one has quite a nice shape to it. I will post pictures of it, once I confirm it has survived haha.

I will be sure to bring the trees in when it freezes. Luckily, we don't have a very strong winter here and the growing season tends to go almost up to November.
 
Thanks. Yes there is certainly no shortage of humidity here in SELA. I prefer to collect in late winter/early Spring, but these were going to get disked anyway, which is unfortunate because the larger one has quite a nice shape to it. I will post pictures of it, once I confirm it has survived haha.

I will be sure to bring the trees in when it freezes. Luckily, we don't have a very strong winter here and the growing season tends to go almost up to November.

Light overnight frosts are good. Week-long freezes that are well below 32°F would be an issue. I don't know how often that happens down there, but if it does, a shed or unheated garage might be good. Be careful not to warm the trees up too much, or they might come out of dormancy. Your ideal temperature is 33°F.
 
New here, from Southeast Louisiana (on the zone 8b/9a line) - been lurking the forum for a very long time though. Tons of great information here.

Today I had the opportunity to walk some family property, particularly a location that is about to be cut. I found a few small parsley hawthorns (Crataegus marshallii, quite uncommon here), a couple of them were in the cutting path, so I collected them.

It seems that most of the roots were left intact, although not as many fine roots as I would like. The native soil was a crumbly, loamy clay that fell off of the root system, despite digging quite a large hole around it.

I lightly washed the roots (pictured) and potted it in a box with bonsai soil (mix of pumice, lava, and expanded shale), a little bit of spaghnum, and placed it in the shade.

Is there anything else I should do to maximize recovery chances? What signs should I watch out for to indicate success/failure? I don't typically collect outside of Spring.
Here is my hard earned experience with collecting hawthorns in LA.
1. Soil is critical here. The soil should drain well and only retain just enough water. If the soil is soggy the tree will appear to do well but then die later because it doesn't develop enough roots.
2. Try to reduce the demand of water on the roots by keeping the collected tree mostly in the shade with just limited morning sun.
3. Freeze protection is a must with a hawthorn collected this late. If the roots are still white and are subjected to freezing, they will die.
 
Here is my hard earned experience with collecting hawthorns in LA.
1. Soil is critical here. The soil should drain well and only retain just enough water. If the soil is soggy the tree will appear to do well but then die later because it doesn't develop enough roots.
2. Try to reduce the demand of water on the roots by keeping the collected tree mostly in the shade with just limited morning sun.
3. Freeze protection is a must with a hawthorn collected this late. If the roots are still white and are subjected to freezing, they will die.
This is really good advice, thank you. I have the tree in a pretty coarse inorganic mix with very fast draining. There is some spaghnum in there too. I have been keeping the soil moist throughout the day, should I let it dry out every now and then?

I will certainly protect the tree from freezing.
 
Collected this fir (unsure if it is a White or a Noble) at around 6000 ft elevation. It had a decent amount of feeders in the large root ball that I collected. Put it into a mix of native soil, pumice and pine bark.
 

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Applied for and received a Forest Products permit in Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests. 3 conifers (coming from quite a distance, so limited to what I can carry in the vehicle). Any advice for collecting in the Larimer Co area is appreciated. New to collecting for bonsai but excited for the opportunity. Headed to the area in the next few weeks, probably sooner than later.

The collected material in the thread is inspiring.
 
Applied for and received a Forest Products permit in Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests. 3 conifers (coming from quite a distance, so limited to what I can carry in the vehicle). Any advice for collecting in the Larimer Co area is appreciated. New to collecting for bonsai but excited for the opportunity. Headed to the area in the next few weeks, probably sooner than later.

The collected material in the thread is inspiring.
Just remember, there's a reason they're called the ROCKY Mountains. You're competing with geology; no soil, just rocks with sand in between. Roots will run dozens of feet in all directions, including down. A pry bar is a good idea.
Be very judicious about what you chose to dig. You might find yourself half an hour in, and realize there's no possible way you're going to get a decent football out from between the rocks; fill it in and leave it alone. Don't kill a beautiful and unique tree just because you've already spent the time. One out of 1000 good trees are safely extractable.

I recommend concentrating your hunt on the northern or eastern slopes, where the sun is least intense. Water evaporates slower there, so you're likely to have roots slightly shallower.
When you find a nice one, give it a jiggle first thing to see how firmly it's rooted. If it gives a little, then explore the base of the trunk to get an idea of where the roots go, then remind yourself they go a completely different direction once you get below the surface.
Pack a roll of packing plastic to wrap up the rootball as soon as it comes out. Have containers, soil water and wire ready in your vehicle for immediate transplanting.
It's been warm and dry throughout most of Colorado recently, so not ideal conditions for collecting. Ensure you're set for proper after care during the trip home. You will have better luck with deciduous this time of year, though moisture loving conifers (spruce and fir) will be possible; they tend to root faster.
 
Two years ago, I planted some Chinese elms on the land in my lake house. Now that I have plan to sell that land, I am planning to dig them up. Current plan is for February. I checked on them yesterday, they have trunks about 1.5" to 2". They are not as big as I like but time is running out for me so they will be collected.

I also have some on the land with trunks up to 3". I am pondering on their collection as well. However, they look good on the land and may make the land more attractive to buyers.
I think the best practice is to keep root pruning them. Cut a circle around them with a sharp shovel but leave in place till ready to remove? Sounds a little late for you to start this. At nurseries they do this with a roto tiller in both directions.
 
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