Small palmatum

[Velodog2]

Sharing with you a little maple I've been working on for about 8 years. It is cutting grown and purchased from the Meehan's on the same trip as the semi-cascade maple I showed in another post. I don't have pics from the early years of building the trunk, and there was only one branch left to remove when the first one was taken. I don't know the cultivar if it is one. The leaves are fairly small but not tiny, slightly coarse, and with red-tinged edges in spring. I'd thought kotohime at one time but probably not. The first pic is from 2012 and the rough virt that has guided me was done then also.





I put a lot of effort into making a trunk line that was slightly unbalanced and a little awkward so as to be dynamic. Development went well after the trunk line was set except that the apex snapped off a few years ago. The branch raised to replace it brought in a little too much balance as well as too much space between branches up top. It's ok for now although will have to be fixed eventually







The pic above is spring of 2016. It's (over)growing strongly in its oversized pot and internodes are a little longer than ideal from last year as can be seen in the overhead shot below, but the branches are beginning to develop. The right one near the top overdeveloped and had to be cut back hard, a risk made acceptable by a shoot that came up from its base last spring as a back-up plan in case of die-back, but I think it will probably bud back as it is very strong. Perhaps a smaller pot would help get shorter internodes. Dunno - haven't really tried too hard to do that yet.





The last shots were taken a few weeks ago. I've basically neglected the nebari up till now as the base flare kinda looked ok on its own with the roots buried. The actual nebari is not awful but not good enough for the tree either with a little bit of undecut. I've only really just started to think about how to deal with it. Either develop the roots as is, graft some from rooted cuttings, or do a whole base layer from the flare. I wish I'd started work on it earlier as a good nebari would help a lot.

I've really enjoyed building this tree year by year and decision by decision and I admit I'm generally pleased with the how it has developed so far. In person it's a charming little tree and is the first maple I've managed to get this far along. Still a lot of work left to be done on the branches, especially the apex, as well as the base. Hope u like it.

 

[Paradox]

I think you have a very nice start on this little maple.

Not sure what the best way to deal with the base is. Perhaps @MACH5 or @Smoke, who are both very experienced with maples can answer better.

One thing I do know is that from the very green bark, the tree is still very young and has a lot of maturing to do yet. It will only get better with time.

 

[namnhi]

Very nice little tree. I like this tree a lot.

 

[petegreg]

Ou, what a powerful movement in this nice little trunk. It makes me to start one from cutting or air layer. Love the picture with reddish leaves.

 

[just.wing.it]

That's nice! I like it!
Great movement, like mentioned above, it'll look great once barked up!...as you already know....

 

[GGB]

It reminds me of my little maple I'm currently chopping. I really like what you've got so far.

 

[defra]

very nice!
shorter internodes with smaller pot and low on fertelizer i guess

got me inspired!

 

[MichaelS]

Velodog2, Make no mistake, this is a good quality tree you have. I would suggest cutting back a little further (see below) preferably just before repotting. The areas such as 1, 2 and 3, where there are no visible buds, will form them and shoot there quite readily. Your main aim now should be the reduction of internode length - as you mentioned. This of course accomplished by removing anything longer than about 10mm (3/8 inch or so) 20mm, (about 5/8 inch) is too long for this sized tree) and pinching out the centre bud as soon as possible in spring. Along with this, it is vital that you continually thin out any areas where more than 2 buds appear. (there will be many). If the growth of the new shoots is still too strong, along with the pinching, you can also remove the 2 bracts on either side of the new shoot and this will help a lot in restraining the vigor in that particular area. You can over do it though and end up with very weak and tiny buds so once every 2 or 3 years should be enough as far as bract removal is concerned (if necessary). After that, when the leaves have matured and hardened, you should defoliate and repeat the process until you're happy with the ramification and the scale. You will also find it necessary to do some periodic hard pruning and leader replacement but that is standard practice for JMs. I would NOT use a smaller pot just yet and I would NOT starve the tree. On the contrary, feed well and keep on top of it with the scissors.
The nebari....I would not worry about it.

 

[Velodog2]

Wow, thanks everyone. Really glad u liked it!

MichaelS I appreciate your great advice and mark-up of the photo. I am really just learning my way around with these maples. What is the significance of the numbers on the areas? I will consider cutting back further, and will def try pinching out the centers of the shoots. Most of those long internodes really can't be a permanent part of the tree. And will probably repot into the same pot as well because I like a little buffer against watering errors.

I'll try to get a pic of the root base up at some point. As I said I've been ok with it as is, but have started to think about how much nicer it would look with a real nebari.

 

[MACH5]

Velodog2, you can easily improve the nebari by an air layer. I would also consider a slight change of planting angle towards the left. This will give your tree a greater sense of directionality and movement to the left, then braking sharply to the right.

 

[MichaelS]

=

"Velodog2, post: 409477, member: 20713"]

.

What is the significance of the numbers on the areas?

There are a few places where you will cut where there are no visible buds - that is you are cutting to a node without buds you can actually see) those 3 places are examples.
IMO a perfect nebari will not make sense on this kind of tree. Best keep it natural. All you need to do is make sure you prune hard right up under the trunk each time you repot and you will naturally form a pleasing and irregular nebari which will match the informality of the tree.

 

[sorce]

IMO a perfect nebari will not make sense on this kind of tree.

My thoughts exactly!

@Velodog2

If what we have seen so far is as it seems...
I like your style!

Sorce

 

[AlainK]

Unusual, very interesting.

What if you cut off the present leader (red line) ?...

Then the branch underlined in yellow would stay a back branch to give some volume, and the one in green would become the main "line" of the design :



Then, ...



???

...

 

[Velodog2]

=
IMO a perfect nebari will not make sense on this kind of tree. Best keep it natural. All you need to do is make sure you prune hard right up under the trunk each time you repot and you will naturally form a pleasing and irregular nebari which will match the informality of the tree.

Very interesting thought! Perhaps so ...


Not great as I said, but maybe not so bad as to justify an air layer as Mach5 suggested, although I agree that is the best way to remake it. It's not as undercut as I had remembered and probably meets the criteria for "informal" so I'll likely leave it alone for a while longer and let the roots thicken by themselves. BTW that tiny whitish root on the far left spontaneously grew from nothing this past summer - maybe the nebari will fix itself!

Thank you for the virtual Alain. That would make it unusual indeed and I can see how I could like it! I went back and checked and saw that it would then have a passing resemblance to your malus that I liked so well! I do intend to extend the front dropping branch some, although not to the extent you show, but it will still have a little of that feel. However regarding that suggestion as well as Mach5's on tilting it, I'm really in love with the trunk line and balance as it stands, even if love can be blind. I invested a lot of effort into getting that balance just right, in my eyes at least. I will add that when I did that virt 4 years ago I also did one of a literati where the first two branches were eliminated that could be interesting. But I think the trunk is too strong for that.

If what we have seen so far is as it seems...
I like your style!

Sorce

Thank you Sorce! I am wondering at your suspicion though ...

I've been dicking around with these little trees for something like 25 years now, almost completely by myself though. I used to participate in the Internet Bonsai Club (this tree has been shared there), and read all the Bonsai Today many times over, but haven't really participated in any clubs or taken classes. Very few of my trees have been seen by anyone into bonsai but me, so I've not really known if they were any good at all. Last summer I started taking a few out to Hugh and Martha Meehan for advice or just to see what they thought, and they were very kindly encouraging. I also took a couple to the National Arboretum during the spring festival in association with the Brookside Bonsai Society whose meetings I attended a couple of times, but they didn't really get much attention. None of my trees are really show-worthy. Almost all of my earlier attempts ultimately died due to a combination of ignorance and mistakes, a somewhat erratic lifestyle, and then finally "bad" tap water with high alkalinity. But I'm keeping them alive better now and starting to get some results it seems. I almost never buy already styled trees, and significantly change them if I do. The reward is in the creation. Working with and styling them is usually a very private process for me and sharing them always feels a little strange.

You all have been very encouraging so I hope to post some more in the future.

 

[Giga]

Great little tree!

 

[wireme]

I've really enjoyed building this tree year by year and decision by decision

Yeah!

 

[sorce]

I'm really in love with the trunk line and balance as it stands, even if love can be blind. I invested a lot of effort into getting that balance just right, in my eyes at least.

Nah nah!

In my eyes too!

I think leaning further left could work for the trunk. But IMO there is too much weight left now. You'd have to make all new right branching.

I love how the trunk sits.

And please....
Show us more!

For the Record...
AlainK has a "style" too.

Quite like yours except where his is round yours is angular.
But similar.

Sorce

 

[MACH5]

Very interesting thought! Perhaps so ...
View attachment 125960

Not great as I said, but maybe not so bad as to justify an air layer as Mach5 suggested, although I agree that is the best way to remake it. It's not as undercut as I had remembered and probably meets the criteria for "informal" so I'll likely leave it alone for a while longer and let the roots thicken by themselves. BTW that tiny whitish root on the far left spontaneously grew from nothing this past summer - maybe the nebari will fix itself!

Thank you for the virtual Alain. That would make it unusual indeed and I can see how I could like it! I went back and checked and saw that it would then have a passing resemblance to your malus that I liked so well! I do intend to extend the front dropping branch some, although not to the extent you show, but it will still have a little of that feel. However regarding that suggestion as well as Mach5's on tilting it, I'm really in love with the trunk line and balance as it stands, even if love can be blind. I invested a lot of effort into getting that balance just right, in my eyes at least. I will add that when I did that virt 4 years ago I also did one of a literati where the first two branches were eliminated that could be interesting. But I think the trunk is too strong for that.



Thank you Sorce! I am wondering at your suspicion though ...

I've been dicking around with these little trees for something like 25 years now, almost completely by myself though. I used to participate in the Internet Bonsai Club (this tree has been shared there), and read all the Bonsai Today many times over, but haven't really participated in any clubs or taken classes. Very few of my trees have been seen by anyone into bonsai but me, so I've not really known if they were any good at all. Last summer I started taking a few out to Hugh and Martha Meehan for advice or just to see what they thought, and they were very kindly encouraging. I also took a couple to the National Arboretum during the spring festival in association with the Brookside Bonsai Society whose meetings I attended a couple of times, but they didn't really get much attention. None of my trees are really show-worthy. Almost all of my earlier attempts ultimately died due to a combination of ignorance and mistakes, a somewhat erratic lifestyle, and then finally "bad" tap water with high alkalinity. But I'm keeping them alive better now and starting to get some results it seems. I almost never buy already styled trees, and significantly change them if I do. The reward is in the creation. Working with and styling them is usually a very private process for me and sharing them always feels a little strange.

You all have been very encouraging so I hope to post some more in the future.

Nice! Way better roots than I expected. So no need for air layer. Seems you have plenty to work with.

As a side comment, by suggesting earlier an air layer, I did not mean to imply that a perfect nebari was needed here. Simply to create roots to effectively work with. I understand well carrying a story through an entire design, so that all parts are relateable and make sense against one another.

 

[JudyB]

You could get some better useable surface roots if you would repot it into a shallow pot. I know you want plenty of room for good growth, so pick a WIDE shallow pot. That way plenty of root growth, but you can make them spread and stay up at the surface. If you have trouble with drying out, you can use chopped sphagnum to solve that. Nice tree. I myself would not cut the top back where Alain suggests, as the change of direction is what makes this tree so interesting.

 

[Velodog2]

As a side comment, by suggesting earlier an air layer, I did not mean to imply that a perfect nebari was needed here.

I realized I had made it sound like you were suggesting a need to airlayer when actually I was who had said the roots might need replacing. You just recommended air layer as the best option to do it. Sorry!