Should i restart this chinese elm?

[zita]

waiting for the pic

 

[Shibui]

and I understand there are two ways to do it: a long branch with several secondaries, or producing two new branches every two internodes. Which is the best way for a Chinese elm?

Not sure what the second way means. In general, try to avoid having 2 branches (plus the main branch =3) at any point. That invariably leads to swelling where 2 side branches grow from the branch or trunk.
If you can manage to make it happen, a new secondary branch every so often along the main branch. First image in your attachments. The image shows a relatively straight branch (maybe just for clarity?), which would be OK on a tree with straight trunk. I try to build a branch with some movement more like toward the end of that illustration. Degree of branch movement should reflect the degree of trunk movement as whatever forced bends into the trunk does similar to branches as they grow. Remember that movement in trunk and branches should be 3D - some up, some down, some left, some right rather than all bends side to side.

As mentioned earlier, Chinese elm have a different growth pattern from many other deciduous so a different branch pattern can be appropriate. Chinese elm branch pattern can be more like broom style trunk pattern - main branch splits into 2 or maybe 3 which all continue to split into 2s to make rounded foliage pad.

 

[sebfer55]

waiting for the pic

=)

 

[sebfer55]

Not sure what the second way means. In general, try to avoid having 2 branches (plus the main branch =3) at any point. That invariably leads to swelling where 2 side branches grow from the branch or trunk.
If you can manage to make it happen, a new secondary branch every so often along the main branch. First image in your attachments. The image shows a relatively straight branch (maybe just for clarity?), which would be OK on a tree with straight trunk. I try to build a branch with some movement more like toward the end of that illustration. Degree of branch movement should reflect the degree of trunk movement as whatever forced bends into the trunk does similar to branches as they grow. Remember that movement in trunk and branches should be 3D - some up, some down, some left, some right rather than all bends side to side.

As mentioned earlier, Chinese elm have a different growth pattern from many other deciduous so a different branch pattern can be appropriate. Chinese elm branch pattern can be more like broom style trunk pattern - main branch splits into 2 or maybe 3 which all continue to split into 2s to make rounded foliage pad.

Sorry for the crap quality im on my phone. Is it option 1 or 2 the best?

 

[Wulfskaar]

Sorry for the crap quality im on my phone. Is it option 1 or 2 the best?

Here's an option. I think it's closer to option 1:

 

[zita]

=)

congrats, very cool!
so much better than what i would have done with leaving the lower branches on

 

[Shibui]

Sorry for the crap quality im on my phone. Is it option 1 or 2 the best?

I don't think one is better than the other. Both will make a good branch. I suspect option 2 would suit more 'natural, styled elms and broom style. Maybe let the tree guide you as the branches develop. You'll probably find they tend towards one or the other depending on how you prune as it develops. Just try to stick with a common theme for the whole tree so try not to mix the 2 different structures in a single tree.

 

[sebfer55]

I don't think one is better than the other. Both will make a good branch. I suspect option 2 would suit more 'natural, styled elms and broom style. Maybe let the tree guide you as the branches develop. You'll probably find they tend towards one or the other depending on how you prune as it develops. Just try to stick with a common theme for the whole tree so try not to mix the 2 different structures in a single tree.

Thanks, i think option 2 suits this species better

 

[sebfer55]

Here's an option. I think it's closer to option 1:

Seen this vid. I think a lot of my doubts were born watching it

 

[Wulfskaar]

Seen this vid. I think a lot of my doubts were born watching it

I had a similar reaction because I watched another video of a bonsai professional doing what this guy says not to do, which is bifurcating over and over again.

Which one you use may depend on the tree and how many available branches you have.

 

[sebfer55]

I had a similar reaction because I watched another video of a bonsai professional doing what this guy says not to do, which is bifurcating over and over again.

Which one you use may depend on the tree and how many available branches you have.

Ye i dont think there is a wrong or right way. I think it depends on the species, so i was wondering which one would fit a chinese elm better

 

[zita]

basicly....apply the same style as to your trunk of the given tree.

myself i am completely with the guy from the video. Fast and safe with every option down the road.
bifurcating imho is done at the final stage, obviously it cant be repeated too many times

As for wiring thouse very new shots, i do not do it as it is time consuming and very fragile. I do put a little weight on new branches to pull them down for downward angle. And following season the wiring

 

[sebfer55]

Its working! Wait for it to push or select sprouts now?

 

[Shibui]

Its working! Wait for it to push or select sprouts now?

that's really quick! Your elm must be very happy down there in Argentina.
Only rub off those in very obvious undesirable places. Leave a few in the areas you think you'll want branches. Let them grow for a few weeks/months to see which are weak or heading in undesirable directions, etc. There's plenty of time to make decisions on keepers. Keeping a few more than needed won't cause instant problems but does give you insurance policies in case something unexpected goes wrong.