Repotting vs bud break

[Balbs]

Er um... I meant April

Yup. Good thing I already ‘winterized’ my snowblower for the season.

When it comes to the aftercare, I think what people mean is: no freezes, appropriate watering, no blazing sun. Is there more?

 

[Dav4]

Yup. Good thing I already ‘winterized’ my snowblower for the season.

When it comes to the aftercare, I think what people mean is: no freezes, appropriate watering, no blazing sun. Is there more?

No sub freezing temperatures for sure, but trees with leaves need sun and the sun intensity right now is not that strong. I’d put it where it’s going to spend the summer.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

No sub freezing temperatures for sure, but trees with leaves need sun and the sun intensity right now is not that strong. I’d put it where it’s going to spend the summer.

Don't mean to hijack but at what point to trees need to be in the sun. Just once the leaves have emerged? Or before once their breaking?

 

[Dav4]

Don't mean to hijack but at what point to trees need to be in the sun. Just once the leaves have emerged? Or before once their breaking?

Without knowing the answer definitively, my assumption is that swelling green buds can benefit from direct sunlight, and as those buds turn into young leaves, that benefit increases until it becomes a necessity. I just moved some of my maples outside for the next few days until the cold weather makes me move them back in… it’s currently 40 f and cloudy but I think they’re better outside then inside under my grow lamps.

 

[takira]

A further newbie question on post-potting aftercare - I know to keep away from freezing and wind, but are warmer temperatures better overall? I keep my repotted trees at whatever temperature (so long as it's not dipping below freezing) they were enjoying before the repot. If one seems to be struggling, thought, is it beneficial to move it to warmer conditions than it would normally have for time of year?

 

[Dav4]

A further newbie question on post-potting aftercare - I know to keep away from freezing and wind, but are warmer temperatures better overall? I keep my repotted trees at whatever temperature (so long as it's not dipping below freezing) they were enjoying before the repot. If one seems to be struggling, thought, is it beneficial to move it to warmer conditions than it would normally have for time of year?

Yes

 

[Balbs]

Ok, here’s another. This is a crab from @rodeolthr. I’d love to get into it and sort out the roots. But these leaves are pretty much out. What would you all do?

 

[Dav4]

I'd have re-potted it last week....


... but I'd still consider a more judicious re-pot tonight or tomorrow. Crabs are tough as heck, fwiw.
I'd consider losing most of the roots below the pot rim if there isn't something spectacular hidden there.

 

[Balbs]

Yeah, I was traveling last week which is why a few of these look the way they do. They moved a lot in a single week. Took your advice and got rid of most of what was under the soil. Hopefully it makes it.

 

[Dav4]

Yeah, I was traveling last week which is why a few of these look the way they do. They moved a lot in a single week. Took your advice and got rid of most of what was under the soil. Hopefully it makes it.

Let’s see it

 

[Balbs]

Let’s see it

Looks about the same. I buried it deeper since I took so much off.

 

[Balbs]

I think once it recovers, that big back trunk should come off, or at least be shortened. The trunk on the right has movement and I think the tree is probably in there.

 

[Dav4]

I think once it recovers, that big back trunk should come off, or at least be shortened. The trunk on the right has movement and I think the tree is probably in there.

I’d stare at this for a while before chopping. There might be a decent 2 trunk design in there. Good job on the repot.

 

[Balbs]

Thanks! If you look at this top-down view, that back trunk is straight taperless. That’s the one I think I’d prune. In the two-trunk you had envisioned, is that one of the trunks?

decent 2 trunk design

 

[Dav4]

Thanks! If you look at this top-down view, that back trunk is straight taperless. That’s the one I think I’d prune. In the two-trunk you had envisioned, is that one of the trunks?View attachment 537581

Yes, it was until you showed that top down picture. I thought that the smaller branch or trunk in front of it was actually coming off of the larger straight trunk, and I would have suggested cutting back to there. Losing the straight tapeless trunk, or at least cutting it back hard, is probably a good idea.

 

[Mike Corazzi]

My trees have been waking up quickly over the last week. When it comes to repotting, everything I read says you can’t repot after bud break. I’ve attached a euonymous of mine. I think these buds are ‘broken’ but want to check my understanding of that term. The leaves haven’t unfurled, though they look like they’re just about to. So, are these buds broken? Is it too late to repot? Or is it just a matter of how much risk one wants to take?

When I see a peek of green, I repot.
On mildew prone trees like oak, I also begin copper spray VERY DILUTE for the time from then to leafout. (leaf-out?)

 

[Balbs]

Yes, it was until you showed that top down picture. I thought that the smaller branch or trunk in front of it was actually coming off of the larger straight trunk, and I would have suggested cutting back to there. Losing the straight tapeless trunk, or at least cutting it back hard, is probably a good idea.

Okay, thanks. I’ll probably just let that thing stay for a while while the tree recovers anyway. And when the base is sufficiently fat, chop it back. From a recovery standpoint, is this year out of the question for a cutback of that scale?

 

[Dav4]

Okay, thanks. I’ll probably just let that thing stay for a while while the tree recovers anyway. And when the base is sufficiently fat, chop it back. From a recovery standpoint, is this year out of the question for a cutback of that scale?

If it grows well this spring, you could cut back that trunk early summer without the tree skipping a beat.

 

[NMbonsai]

Thanks for the info explaining "bud break." This is a good indicator for deciduous species but what about broad leaf evergreens like privet, cotoneaster, and elaeagnus? I usually wait to repot until I see tiny leaves rather than buds appearing at the ends of twigs beyond or among the old leaves from the previous year. Here in New Mexico this can be from mid February to mid March, depending on the species and the severity of the winter. What indicators would you folks in other climatic zones use to decide when to repot?

 

[Balbs]

If it grows well this spring, you could cut back that trunk early summer without the tree skipping a beat.

Really appreciate all of your help man!