Repotting vs bud break

[JudyB]

Yes

A further newbie question on post-potting aftercare - I know to keep away from freezing and wind, but are warmer temperatures better overall? I keep my repotted trees at whatever temperature (so long as it's not dipping below freezing) they were enjoying before the repot. If one seems to be struggling, thought, is it beneficial to move it to warmer conditions than it would normally have for time of year?

And really if you have to keep the tree in an area that gets pretty cold without freezing and you did root work, it's never a bad idea to use a heat mat to keep those roots nice and warm...

 

[rodeolthr]

The thick, taperless trunk is the remnants of a sacrifice branch. I should have cut it back hard before selling, but I like to leave those things for the new own to decide. Cut it at any time....this crabapple seedling is super tough and shouldn't skip a beat.

 

[Balbs]

The thick, taperless trunk is the remnants of a sacrifice branch. I should have cut it back hard before selling, but I like to leave those things for the new own to decide. Cut it at any time....this crabapple seedling is super tough and shouldn't skip a beat.

Yeah I assumed that. I’ll probably let it go for a while to keep thickening things up.

 

[takira]

And really if you have to keep the tree in an area that gets pretty cold without freezing and you did root work, it's never a bad idea to use a heat mat to keep those roots nice and warm...

Having put a trident maple through rather more than it should have had done at a workshop, I moved it into my bathroom where it gets indirect light, stays between 72 and 74 degrees, and I've been keeping it well watered. It's looking pretty peaked at one week out, but I'm not sure how long it usually takes before it's clear whether a tree is going to survive or not post-trauma.

 

[Dav4]

Having put a trident maple through rather more than it should have had done at a workshop, I moved it into my bathroom where it gets indirect light, stays between 72 and 74 degrees, and I've been keeping it well watered. It's looking pretty peaked at one week out, but I'm not sure how long it usually takes before it's clear whether a tree is going to survive or not post-trauma.

It needs more light than that if it's broken dormancy and has forming leaves. Without adequate light, you'll get weak, spindly growth with super long internodes. I've got most of my maples under lights and the ones that are too big get moved outside every day as long as it's at/above freezing in the am before I go to work, and they'll stay outside overnight if I'm confidant the temps will stay in the mid to upper 30's.

 

[Shibui]

but at what point to trees need to be in the sun. Just once the leaves have emerged? Or before once their breaking?

I prefer to have leaves open in the sun they will need to cope with. Leaves adapt to sun. If they open in shade then get moved to sun those leaves are likely to get sunburn. If you let leaves open in shade you'll need to make the change back to sun gradually so the leaves can adapt.

Same issue with the trident above kept in the bathroom. May be doing more harm than good?

 

[rockm]

Deciduous trees need to be outside in the sun as their leaves emerge. If they're protected inside, the leaves set under extremely low light and can be bigger. Initial growth also becomes long and leggy. Recently repotted trees with emerging leaves should be exposed to four hours or so of morning sun. If frost or freezing is predicted, obviously deciduous trees need to be moved under shelter. This is the spring bonsai two step.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

My question was more along the lines: do they need sun once buds start bulging. Is there any point starting the two step, before the leaves are actually emerging?

In my situation, we had some unusually warm weather in early March, which activated bud swell on many of my trees that I keep in an unheated garage. So, I repotted. Since that time, it's been pretty cold, which has drastically slowed the bulging. My garage does have some windows on the garage doors, so there is some light coming in, but I've been taking them out each day anyways.

Am I just wasting my time? Taking trees out that don't have leaves that have emerged yet.

 

[Dav4]

My question was more along the lines: do they need sun once buds start bulging. Is there any point starting the two step, before the leaves are actually emerging?

In my situation, we had some unusually warm weather in early March, which activated bud swell on many of my trees that I keep in an unheated garage. So, I repotted. Since that time, it's been pretty cold, which has drastically slowed the bulging. My garage does have some windows on the garage doors, so there is some light coming in, but I've been taking them out each day anyways.

Am I just wasting my time? Taking trees out that don't have leaves that have emerged yet.

My assumption has always been that swelling buds are light sensitive and high intensity light/direct sunlight at this stage, even before leaves have formed, will likely affect growth in a positive manner- read that as healthy new foliage (lots of chlorophyll ready to photosynthesize) and shorter internodes. Anyway, maybe @Leo in N E Illinois has some insight.

Edit: it’s 38 F and all my big maples are outside today soaking up the sun

 

[The Warm Canuck]

My assumption has always been that swelling buds are light sensitive and high intensity light/direct sunlight at this stage, even before leaves have formed, will likely affect growth in a positive manner- read that as healthy new foliage (lots of chlorophyll ready to photosynthesize) and shorter internodes. Anyway, maybe @Leo in N E Illinois has some insight.

Edit: it’s 38 F and all my big maples are outside today soaking up the sun
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Nice benches! Cedar? or pressure treated?

 

[Dav4]

Nice benches! Cedar? or pressure treated?

I picked the lumber up at Home Depot a few years ago. It’s pressure-treated 4” by 6“ x 12‘, and they came stained to look like cedar. I applied a cedar stain/sealer a few weeks ago to freshen them up.

 

[The Warm Canuck]

I picked the lumber up at Home Depot a few years ago. It’s pressure-treated 4” by 6“ x 12‘, and they came stained to look like cedar. I applied a cedar stain/sealer a few weeks ago to freshen them up.

Have you experienced any sagging with the 12' length?

 

[Dav4]

Have you experienced any sagging with the 12' length?

No, none at all... there are a few that have warped slightly, but entering their third year of use, they're essentially the same as when I purchased them.

 

[Carol 83]

Have you experienced any sagging with the 12' length?

 

[Dav4]

Straight as it ever was, Carol