Had I made this post on the BC group on FB I am sure I would've been told how wrong I amNo argument on the height from me. I've learned to chop higher and carve to get the top taper.
Had I made this post on the BC group on FB I am sure I would've been told how wrong I amNo argument on the height from me. I've learned to chop higher and carve to get the top taper.
Just joined in December. Hope to meet all you guys soon!Excellent start! Those twin trunks are a one-of-a-kind find.
I encourage you to join the Louisiana Bonsai Society. Good people. I've been a member for about 8 years.
Yep sure did... I pruned the base real good and all took off all the branches. Thanks for the suggestion!Great suggestions above, one this I would consider doing now is getting rid of that thick root marked in red and the small one below. It will take off rather fast and bulge where it would be unsightly to the design. As far as chopping it, I would do it now so that you can take advantage of the flush this spring to start the design. If not the tree is going to invest its energy on all the buds available now, which you will end up cutting off again next year.
View attachment 525264
Yes I was camera happy and was taking lots of photos. I had to get in to the garage that night and do some cleaning up on the base with a glass of wine!If you look at the pick by the golf cart, it looks like it's already gone? Had me going back and forth thinking I was crazy. But I think the outside pic was possibly taken prior to the garage one?
Solid... thank you John!I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.
If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.
Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree
Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
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I tend to agree. For me, I value the story that a flat-topped, hurricane battered top tells. My flat tops are normally a bit smaller than the one pictured and have more branches down lower on the trunk. That's pretty much what I see around here. BUT...... this is art and art is the artist's domain.
I think I am going to do the 2nd concept with your suggestion's and see what it will look like.Solid... thank you John!
Yes... this was just concept for measurement determinations.Also, I would question if the angular chop should be done in view from the front, or if they should be chopped front higher to back lower. That way the wound isn't visible. Just a consideration.
What's the overall height of this tree?I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.
If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.
Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree
Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
View attachment 525290
@WNC Bonsai also did this.... With the post Old Zack. https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/my-big-bald-cypress-“old-zach”.60823/I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.
If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.
Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree
Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
View attachment 525290
about 4'What's the overall height of this tree?
The basic design is sound. I would suggest to just let it grow out as wild as it wants to and cut it back to something that you like. Trying to force a certain branch structure, in my opinion, seems to look forced and unnatural. That being said, this IS art and you are the artist.Here is my Second concept that I’m liking much better after all the advice.
Also, this is not final design for branching. Just for overall decisions on where to cut for the chops.
For those that are part of the Facebook group sorry for the redundancy on here.
agreed!The basic design is sound. I would suggest to just let it grow out as wild as it wants to and cut it back to something that you like. Trying to force a certain branch structure, in my opinion, seems to look forced and unnatural. That being said, this IS art and you are the artist.
It depends on what you're trying to do. What you drew is a young tree (apex over the base). If you want a young tree, that is a nice design. If you are looking to make an old looking tree, get the apex off center from the base.@19Mateo83 but I guess we’re all suckers for a flat top also!
Any thoughts about my chop heights?
**** Updated this post to have correct measurements.
Thank you!It depends on what you're trying to do. What you drew is a young tree (apex over the base). If you want a young tree, that is a nice design. If you are looking to make an old looking tree, get the apex off center from the base.
If this were my tree, I would do what Johng is suggesting. Use very bit of the length you have on the main trunk and cut the smaller trunk back to the second set of branches. Then I would build the apex off center from the base.
Either way, you have a great eye for material. This is going to be a great tree.
EDIT:
Ha I didn't see the second concept you have. THAT is what I'm talking about. Your apex goes left where the second trunk is. Nice!