My first Yamadori Bald Cypress

Salvarez

Mame
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Location
Baton Rouge, La
USDA Zone
9
I’ve been scoping out this little small church on the way to my daughters school for a few years now. They have this wonderful Cypress Grove that occurred naturally at a pond.

This year I finally got some courage to call the school to get permission to collect. It also helped that I contributed $500 to the Lutheran school as my way in. Lol.

Found a great twin tower and a small tree with a wonderful taper.

1. Yes, I will be cutting one of the twin towers lower than the other. I’ve gotten this question a lot.
2. I’m not sure if I need to Let everything grow naturally for a year before considering another chop point and start taper? @Cajunrider wjat do you think?
3. How much fun is all this?
 

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I’ve been scoping out this little small church on the way to my daughters school for a few years now. They have this wonderful Cypress Grove that occurred naturally at a pond.

This year I finally got some courage to call the school to get permission to collect. It also helped that I contributed $500 to the Lutheran school as my way in. Lol.

Found a great twin tower and a small tree with a wonderful taper.

1. Yes, I will be cutting one of the twin towers lower than the other. I’ve gotten this question a lot.
2. I’m not sure if I need to Let everything grow naturally for a year before considering another chop point and start taper? @Cajunrider wjat do you think?
3. How much fun is all this?
Wonderful trees.
I would carefully consider the style you want the trees to be then chop them at the heights you think they should be now. In our area BCs grow well, there is no reason to wait.
 
Wonderful trees.
I would carefully consider the style you want the trees to be then chop them at the heights you think they should be now. In our area BCs grow well, there is no reason to wait.
Looks like I have a lot of thinking to do lol! I’m considering this concept. Which would be a twin trunk with a single silhouette.
 

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@19Mateo83 but I guess we’re all suckers for a flat top also!

Any thoughts about my chop heights?

**** Updated this post to have correct measurements.
 

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Also, I would question if the angular chop should be done in view from the front, or if they should be chopped front higher to back lower. That way the wound isn't visible. Just a consideration.
 
Correction for chop measurements.
Also, I would question if the angular chop should be done in view from the front, or if they should be chopped front higher to back lower. That way the wound isn't visible. Just a consideration.
for sure… just showing for measurements sake
 
Suggest you go to Facebook to the Bald Cypress Forum, there you can find experts with files and pics. While some like the pyramidal style , BC don't grow like that. they sooner or later get their tops taken off by hurricanes, etc.
 
Suggest you go to Facebook to the Bald Cypress Forum, there you can find experts with files and pics. While some like the pyramidal style , BC don't grow like that. they sooner or later get their tops taken off by hurricanes, etc.
Many BCs stay in pyramidal shapes for decades. Quite a few of us create BC bonsai in that shape. Sure they will get their tops broken but the “later” could take a long time. I am sure @Salvarez is already a member of that FB group. Many of the experts in that FB group have been members here for years.
 
Also, I would question if the angular chop should be done in view from the front, or if they should be chopped front higher to back lower. That way the wound isn't visible. Just a consideration.
It depends. I have seen many BCs with the chops carved out beautifully and are designed to be at the front as a feature. For me I actually like some of mine on the side to accentuate the taper the chop creates. This is true for BCs with large trunks. It will take years to develop that smooth taper. While that taper is developing, the tree can be shown with the slant chop on the side instead.
 
Great suggestions above, one this I would consider doing now is getting rid of that thick root marked in red and the small one below. It will take off rather fast and bulge where it would be unsightly to the design. As far as chopping it, I would do it now so that you can take advantage of the flush this spring to start the design. If not the tree is going to invest its energy on all the buds available now, which you will end up cutting off again next year.

1705925907850.png
 
Great suggestions above, one this I would consider doing now is getting rid of that thick root marked in red and the small one below. It will take off rather fast and bulge where it would be unsightly to the design. As far as chopping it, I would do it now so that you can take advantage of the flush this spring to start the design. If not the tree is going to invest its energy on all the buds available now, which you will end up cutting off again next year.

View attachment 525264
If you look at the pick by the golf cart, it looks like it's already gone? Had me going back and forth thinking I was crazy. But I think the outside pic was possibly taken prior to the garage one?
 
If you look at the pick by the golf cart, it looks like it's already gone? Had me going back and forth thinking I was crazy. But I think the outside pic was possibly taken prior to the garage one?
Good catch, I didn't notice on that pic.
 
@19Mateo83 but I guess we’re all suckers for a flat top also!

Any thoughts about my chop heights?

**** Updated this post to have correct measurements.
I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.

If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.

Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree

Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
IMG_3590.JPG
 
I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.

If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.

Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree

Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
View attachment 525290
No argument on the height from me. I've learned to chop higher and carve to get the top taper.
 
I personally think it is a mistake to chop these big trunked trees as low as your drawing suggests. I know it is standard practice in La. to chop and regrow trunks multiple times to build taper...this eventually leads to a point top... I don't grow or appreciate pointy topped pyramidal shaped BC...the big ones just don't grow this way in my experience.

If you are looking to create an immature tree go for it...otherwise, think twice about the chop and regrow for taper technique. When I look at natural trees that have been damaged by storms the new apex is always formed at the level of the damage... So my suggestion is to chop once...but higher up, and then begin to grow 3-5 apex branches...knowing that you will eventually eliminate all but 2 or maybe three of the apex branches as the design matures. In my estimation this will create a very natural looking flat-top and reduce the time needed to develop the tree by at least 10 years.

Not looking for any arguments from the La contingent...you do it your way and I'll do it mine...we don't have to agree

Photo as an example of the one chop method.... 10 years after collection.
View attachment 525290


I tend to agree. For me, I value the story that a flat-topped, hurricane battered top tells. My flat tops are normally a bit smaller than the one pictured and have more branches down lower on the trunk. That's pretty much what I see around here. BUT...... this is art and art is the artist's domain.
 
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