Thanks, not to worry, they were experimental to see how well that area of the acreage would work for growing pines. I used some cheap Austrian black pines from the grocery store when they had a clearance of their landscaping specials. They are going to become part of the natural forest in the lower meadow and add to the view. My nursery JBP and JRP were not part of the in ground experiment.
And quite a view it is!
 
Nice job removing the tree from the ground and documenting it. You will be happy you took so many pictures of the process. As you may know, if you wish to put something back in the hole, make sure you plant it at an angle to put some movement in the trunk. Taper is good, but movement is king. With the trunk you have options are extremely limited. These are the three I see you have.

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If you work on the apex, don’t start adding movement now. Just continue the formal upright look or it will look silly with wiggles on that cone!

Interesting. Does this advice only apply to the development of a formal upright? As for informal uprights, you want some "wiggles" along the trunkline, coorect?

Or are you just saying that, in the case of this particular tree, the trunkline is set as a nearly formal upright, so don't add wiggles on top of a straight trunk?
 
Interesting. Does this advice only apply to the development of a formal upright? As for informal uprights, you want some "wiggles" along the trunkline, coorect?

Or are you just saying that, in the case of this particular tree, the trunkline is set as a nearly formal upright, so don't add wiggles on top of a straight trunk?
The latter...
 
In my area, hosta are like perfect deer food. If you have deer, you probably dont have many hosta. Also, a friend in central Virginia has a house in the woods, with daily deer visits, and also have a Japanese Red Maple sapling that never gets browsed. (But no hosta)
 
The large roots were cut back, while trying to keep as many fine roots as possible. I was careful to keep the fine roots that emerged from the gaps in the nebari, they are very valuable roots. Probably could have been more aggressive, but there's always next time. Cutting back to get it to fit in a pot and then rebuilding vigor is the name of the game at this stage.
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A large colander will serve as a pot while it's in development. Started with a drainage layer of geolite, commonly used in hydroponics.
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Followed by around 1.5 inches of soil (Boon's mix) and then the tree.
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Top off the soil, working it in with a chopstick, and we're done. I'll put it in the sun for now to keep it warm, roots enjoy the warmth...View attachment 185902View attachment 185903View attachment 185904
That's about all for now. It will be protected from any late frost, and watched carefully during the growing season. It will be allowed to grow freely this year to rebuild vigor. The smaller (North facing) branches will be allowed to thicken to catch up to the fatter (sunny South facing) branches.
Any comments are welcome, from styling advice to critiques if my work! :D
Cheers,
-Matt
Cool stuff man. I'm just curious tho I thought Pond Baskets were best for JBPs? Everything I've read says Maples especially collected material, which is basically what this is should be put in a large wooden box in pure pumice??? I guess everyone has their own way to go about this stuff. But great job either way love the tree want to see more as you continue your work on it
 
Thanks for the input, I definitely need to plant more trees to get their development started :)
Wish I had done root work on this one, I set myself back several years by not being proactive with the roots... Live and learn.
Using a box will allow the roots longer to run, and will quicken their development, is that the idea? I like this... Maybe let it gain strength and a mass of fiborous roots in the colander a then to the box with him in a year or two.
I have to start reading further before I put my 2 cents into things!!!!!! DOH
 
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I haven’t done this so I am no expert but once that tree gets growing and healthy there are techniques that you can use to help the tree close the wounds. There may be information here. If not there is adamaskwhy.com. From what I understand after a few years trees will stop growing the calluses over the wound so the calluses have be cut to get them started going again. Some of the wounds on your tree look old to me like the tree has stopped trying to cover them.
Yeah I have read the same thing. I've been reading Bonsai with JM by Peter Adams this week and he says you can also use them as part of the design
 

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Today I was able to do some late winter work on this trident maple. Quite a mess!
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A branch was thread grafted in the upper canopy, just below the boring straight section. If it does well I hope to make this my new leader and cut the big ugly top off it.

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Coming along great, I love this thread. I love your confidence when making the decision. That’s what it’s all about. It’s your masterpiece that you are working on, you see the picture in your head and that’s your blueprint now you are executing the plan. I have two tridents now and it’s work in progress. I’m finding lots of little tips in this thread, keep coming with info on your tree. It’s beautiful.
 
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