Juniper wiring after field digging

[Chunky Trunks]

Hello,
I field dug this shimpaku on 10/8/24. I kept a large size rootball as to not disturb the roots this time of year. Tree is otherwise healthy and checking moisture levels between watering with a moisture meter. My question is, I plan on a windswept style, am I good to begin wiring and shaping the larger branches? I do not plan to remove any foliage at this time. Just an initial wiring for rough shape.
Zone 8 Charlotte NC

 

[leatherback]

No work on this tree till at least summer next year. And then only if it is responding well.

 

[River's Edge]

Hello,
I field dug this shimpaku on 10/8/24. I kept a large size rootball as to not disturb the roots this time of year. Tree is otherwise healthy and checking moisture levels between watering with a moisture meter. My question is, I plan on a windswept style, am I good to begin wiring and shaping the larger branches? I do not plan to remove any foliage at this time. Just an initial wiring for rough shape.
Zone 8 Charlotte NC

Definitely not! At least one year recovery before additional work. Depending on the tree and your care routine it may be longer.

 

[Chunky Trunks]

Definitely not! At least one year recovery before additional work. Depending on the tree and your care routine it may be longer.

Thank you for your reply. With a large size clay rootball (about the size of bonsai training pot) backfilled with a nursery mix, would you recommend getting the plant into a well draining mix before styling/wiring? I’m monitoring moisture closely to prevent excessive wet feet.

 

[leatherback]

Thank you for your reply. With a large size clay rootball (about the size of bonsai training pot) backfilled with a nursery mix, would you recommend getting the plant into a well draining mix before styling/wiring? I’m monitoring moisture closely to prevent excessive wet feet.

I would have removed the fieldsoil as much as possible, ensuring most of the roots grow into open substrate

 

[Chunky Trunks]

No work on this tree till at least summer next year. And then only if it is responding well.

Thank you for your reply.

I would have removed the fieldsoil as much as possible, ensuring most of the roots grow into open substrate

some of the root balls we dug up were very fragile and broke apart and left very little roots on some of the junipers. These junipers were at one time and Bonsai pots and put back in the ground for about eight years. In my zone, I know this is not the ideal time of year to extract from the field. I wanted to air on the side of caution. Hopefully it works.

 

[River's Edge]

Thank you for your reply. With a large size clay rootball (about the size of bonsai training pot) backfilled with a nursery mix, would you recommend getting the plant into a well draining mix before styling/wiring? I’m monitoring moisture closely to prevent excessive wet feet.

My approach would be to complete the transition over as series of repots. Take several years to improve the rootball and health of the tree before beginning major work of any kind. The tree needs serious back budding and cut back in order to make the most of the material. It is highly likely that a considerable amount of heavy bending will be involved in the styling.
So for me it would involve two to three years of preparation.
I would begin by placing the soil a bit deeper to protect surface roots and encourage growth closer to the surface nebari. Continue to monitor your watering carefully, do a partial repot next fall if the tree is doing well, complete the soil transition the following. spring if all is well. Be careful with root work, stage the amount you do rather than trying to accomplish a lot at one. Junipers can be finicky that way.

 

[Chunky Trunks]

My approach would be to complete the transition over as series of repots. Take several years to improve the rootball and health of the tree before beginning major work of any kind. The tree needs serious back budding and cut back in order to make the most of the material. It is highly likely that a considerable amount of heavy bending will be involved in the styling.
So for me it would involve two to three years of preparation.
I would begin by placing the soil a bit deeper to protect surface roots and encourage growth closer to the surface nebari. Continue to monitor your watering carefully, do a partial repot next fall if the tree is doing well, complete the soil transition the following. spring if all is well. Be careful with root work, stage the amount you do rather than trying to accomplish a lot at one. Junipers can be finicky that way

Thank you for that detailed explanation. I will baby sit it and spread the repots over a couple seasons. Do you recommend any treatments to the tree other than water and its current stage?

 

[leatherback]

some of the root balls we dug up were very fragile and broke apart and left very little roots on some of the junipers. These junipers were at one time and Bonsai pots and put back in the ground for about eight years. In my zone, I know this is not the ideal time of year to extract from the field.

I would have guessed it is near optimal time for a field-to-pot transition considering you do not get real cold there, and weather cooling down & wetting up a bit?

Check this out. I lost 1 of them.

 

[River's Edge]

Thank you for that detailed explanation. I will baby sit it and spread the repots over a couple seasons. Do you recommend any treatments to the tree other than water and its current stage?

I do not normally use any fertilizer until I recognize strong recovery and new growth after collection. I also avoid using any chemical treatments. I do spend a little more care with observation and removal of dead shoots, foliage or bark issues that may attract or hide fungal or insect issues.
With respect to the clay ball surrounded by looser " Bonsai Soil " a good approach is to poke holes in the clay ball to ensure drainage and gas exchange. The outside and bottom will drain faster and the centre will tend to stay too wet in the container as opposed to being in the field. Simple process to poke down to the bottom in a few places with a chopstick from time to time. Some now, some in the spring, At least until you are further advanced in removing the field soil. And as I indicated earlier when working the roots do it carefully and save the healthy roots. Working the new soil gently and carefully between them as you repot! Sure you can cut the long thick ones back a bit each time, but be less aggressive about root cutting when dealing with transitioning juniper.
best of luck

 

[Chunky Trunks]

I would have guessed it is near optimal time for a field-to-pot transition considering you do not get real cold there, and weather cooling down & wetting up a bit?

Check this out. I lost 1 of them.

Wow. I’ve seen a ton of your videos. Had no idea that was you. Yes, should get first freeze in the next 30-45 days. Starting to cool down and the soil is slower to dry after watering. If the other junipers had more fibrous roots and good root balls I would have cleaned it up a bit but did not want to risk it falling apart and tearing the roots. It happened on a few.