Air layering for science?

[liltrees]

Hello fellow nuts! Long time lurker, first time poster. I have been into bonsai for more than a few years now. I have everything from seed grown materials to (nearly) complete trees and everything in between.

Just last month, the wife and I bought a house with more space for tree activity (allegedly). Upon taking stock of the landscaping in our new place, I have found there are many mature ornamentals and fruit trees. At some point this spring I will shamelessly take a few air layers from them.

The real reason for this post is one tree in particular. A fairly mature weeping Acer Palmatum dissectum. This tree looks to have significant rot above the original graft site. Everything above the rot appears to be alive so I have been considering attempting some air layers before I remove the entire tree.

Now I know the dissectums can be very hard to propagate but I figured since this tree needs to be replaced, it would be a good opportunity to test it out. If I get lucky, I'll end up with some thick new trees. The main trunk above this rot is several inches thick for reference.

What say you? Anyone have luck with dissectum air layering?
I dont know the cultivar, all I know is the leaves turned from a dull red to a very vibrant bright red before they fell this year. I have the Vertrees book somewhere.

 

[Dav4]

I'd try to save the tree and leave it in the landscape.

 

[Paradox]

I think you are bit early in the season for an air layer attempt.
We usually start those once the tree leafs out and the leaves are hardened off because the leaves help fuel the development of roots.

 

[liltrees]

I think you are bit early in the season for an air layer attempt.
We usually start those once the tree leafs out and the leaves are hardened off because the leaves help fuel the development of roots.

I should have clarified, I'm waiting until spring to do the air layers. I mentioned it briefly toward the beginning of the post. Just planning ahead at the moment.

While we intend to remove this one completely, there are several other trees in our front yard (persimmon, fig, cherry) that need trimmed as they are too close to the power lines so I will attempt air layers on those as well just so the trimmed branches dont go to waste.

For what its worth, my air layer success rate is 100% across two dozen or so trees. Now my cuttings are closer to 10% haha.

 

[Dav4]

I should have clarified, I'm waiting until spring to do the air layers. I mentioned it briefly toward the beginning of the post. Just planning ahead at the moment.

While we intend to remove this one completely, there are several other trees in our front yard (persimmon, fig, cherry) that need trimmed as they are too close to the power lines so I will attempt air layers on those as well just so the trimmed branches dont go to waste.

For what its worth, my air layer success rate is 100% across two dozen or so trees. Now my cuttings are closer to 10% haha.

My success rate is 100% with various upright A. Palmatum cultivars, but have never succeeded with dissectums.

 

[liltrees]

My success rate is 100% with various upright A. Palmatum cultivars, but have never succeeded with dissectums.

I think the plan for now is to do some pruning this spring and air layer the branches that need removed anyway and continue to monitor the health at the rot area for a few seasons before deciding on full removal. As is, it feels top heavy and a strong wind could likely break it at the stressed area.

I'll update the post this spring. Will try to experiment with different air layer techniques and media and document the results.

 

[BrianBay9]

My success rate is 100% with various upright A. Palmatum cultivars, but have never succeeded with dissectums.

I sort of succeeded with a dissectum. Squirrels damaged the stock trunk supporting the grafted dissectum. I air layered it on the stock, immediately below the graft. I now have the appearance of a dissectum on its own roots with the graft disguised in the root crown. OK, I guess that's cheating.

 

[zita]

end of june: chop off the big branch close to the trunk, prune the other branches to half of lenght.
end of sept: dig it out and into pot

DONT airlayer this tree and do NOT go for root flair, because it WONT.
It will be a very lovely tree without btw.

that said, credit for the input from brian above.
still i wouldnt do it because i think the nebari from the other side than the pic is lovely and fat.
Tilt the tree backwards from that view and you have a nice curved branch there as a new leader.
please post a pic from the other side from a low perspective

 

[0soyoung]

I suggest that you dig out all the punky wood and fill in with concrete or epoxy. It will then eventually be grown over. New growth will occur over punky wood - it must be something solid, but what exactly doesn't seem to matter much. Epoxy and concrete are 'easy' options. The fuel for this regrowth will come from foliage immediately above the scar - the more there is, the faster it will happen.

 

[liltrees]

end of june: chop off the big branch close to the trunk, prune the other branches to half of lenght.
end of sept: dig it out and into pot

DONT airlayer this tree and do NOT go for root flair, because it WONT.
It will be a very lovely tree without btw.

that said, credit for the input from brian above.
still i wouldnt do it because i think the nebari from the other side than the pic is lovely and fat.
Tilt the tree backwards from that view and you have a nice curved branch there as a new leader.
please post a pic from the other side from a low perspective

i understand the sentiment of keeping the entire tree intact but this one has a branch spread of around 9 feet. I dont want a bonsai that size and simply putting a landscape tree in a pot does not make it a large bonsai. If I wanted that (or to replace this one with a healthy one), japanese maple landscape trees are a dime a dozen here in northern virginia. Not to mention it has a massive graft bulge for the first foot.
As mentioned above, it severely needs pruned, so there is no harm in attempting air layers on some of the branches that need removed regardless. In a worst case scenario, the air layers dont "take" and I simply remove those branches anyway. No harm, no foul. The main tree structure would remain.
I dont mind trying to plug the rot like @0soyoung mentioned to see how it responds for a season. But this tree holds little value, and replacing it with a similar cultivar would take little effort.

 

[zita]

now you wont be successful airlayering from this tree. It is not possible, thousends have tried it. Each have failed, be the next if fancy for. It is predictable on the negative side.

If the tree has little value for you and you can replace it easely, why not.

Me, honestly, i love the trunk and would do everything to make a cool looking tree out of it.
It is almost perfect to say the least.

again, mid june cut that 9ft branch close to the trunk and also prune back the rest.
You will get A LOT of new branches lower very soon.
Then, this will be mid july, you cut the whole top of (where your 9ft branch started)
then you have a small tree with only new shots on a ulta fat trunk, the new shoots are booming spectactular till late fall.
Very predictable. On the VERY positive side.
You wont find no such cool looking dissectums in nurserys. You got to do it yourself.
And, much much easeier than airlayering. And almost direct results.

Then with all the new growth below you treat the wound as per @osoyoung.

Dont waste your opportunity please