A Japanese Black Pine

At every location you decandled in summer, the tree will respond by throwing one or, perhaps, may more summer shoots. We’ve let these grow all season, so now it’s time to thin them - we want no more than two candles at any one location. Every branch will be different - in some cases you’ll have many and in others you’ll just have a few. Here’s a case:

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As you can see - there are perhaps 5 or so shoots growing from the node where I decandled.

S
 
You want to thin to two - multiple shoots growing from the same node will result in unsightly swelling at the branch junction. So - which two? Here are some general guidelines going through my head when I make my shoot selection (in no particular order):
  1. I like the shoots to emerge from the node in a “V” shape, not a “U” shape.
  2. I like to pick horizontal shoots - the ones coming out of the node side-by-side
  3. Every once in a while it’s good to select a shoot that emerges from the top of the branch. Branches, in general, look more natural when you wire down shoots that emerge from the top of the branch instead of wiring up shoots that emerge on the bottom of the branch.
  4. I like the shoots to have similar strength - I don’t want to pick one really strong one and one really weak one if I can help it
  5. At apical nodes, I tend to pick the weaker shoots. At interior nodes, I tend to pick the stronger shoots.
 
When pulling needles, I use my fingers when the shoots are easy to get to. When they are not, I use a good pair of tweezers. Generally I can reach the apical shoots with my fingers, but if I reach into the interior shoots with my hands, I’ll break needles and rub off shoots, so it’s best to get to those with the tweezers. Grab the sheath covering the two needles where they emerge from the shoot and pull directly outward from the shoot. Don’t pull down as there is a risk you’ll peel off the thin bark on the shoot if you do so.

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While you’re pulling needles, you can also thin buds. Small buds can be removed if they are growing in the wrong place or if the branch tips need to be thinned to make room for the young shoots. If they’re small enough, you can just pull them with the tweezers. If not, cut them with a good set of shears.

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How many needles do you leave on a shoot? I’m always thinking about energy balance. I pick a weaker part of the tree as reference. In the weak parts I leave most of the needles. In the strong parts I pull enough to make the needle density look more like the weaker parts. I also tend to pull more needles from the apical parts of the tree and leave more on the interior parts. In this case, I knew I was going to wire, so I left more needles (you’ll inevitably lose some when you wire). I’ll make another pass after I’ve finished wiring the tree.
 
At every location you decandled in summer, the tree will respond by throwing one or, perhaps, may more summer shoots.

As you can see - there are perhaps 5 or so shoots growing from the node where I decandled.
hello, do have always the same good result after decandling (same number and size of new shoots), year after year ?
 
hello, do have always the same good result after decandling (same number and size of new shoots), year after year ?
As long as the tree is strong and healthy, the result is always good. If the tree is weak, the result is always poor. Avoid decandling weak trees. This was last decandled in late June, 2022 and it responded by pushing buds - no summer shoots. I skipped decandling this year. It seems stronger now, but we’ll see have strongly the spring candles grow and I’ll decide then about decandling next year. It’s always a year to year thing.

- S
 
As long as the tree is strong and healthy, the result is always good. If the tree is weak, the result is always poor. Avoid decandling weak trees. This was last decandled in late June, 2022 and it responded by pushing buds - no summer shoots. I skipped decandling this year. It seems stronger now, but we’ll see have strongly the spring candles grow and I’ll decide then about decandling next year. It’s always a year to year thing.

- S
After 3 consecutive years of decandling, my JBP didn't produce any buds after decandling although the spring candles were the correct size : i had to wait for the next spring to see new buds !


What I observed, in my case, is that the answer after decandling is getting less and less generous year after year
 
After 3 consecutive years of decandling, my JBP didn't produce any buds after decandling although the spring candles were the correct size : i had to wait for the next spring to see new buds !


What I observed, in my case, is that the answer after decandling is getting less and less generous year after year
I have trees that I have decandled every year for well over a decade. This tree was decandled every year since 2012 except for this year - the first time in 11 years I’ve skipped a decandling. Why? Dunno. Perhaps it didn’t get enough fertilizer last year before decandling. Perhaps it was in a place where it wasn’t getting enough light. Perhaps it suffered a bit because of the move from Houston. Perhaps it just needed a break. It sounds like you’re doing the right thing. Watch your spring growth, watch your needle color. If you judge it to be strong enough, decandle and see how it reacts. If it pushes strong summer growth, you’re good to proceed, if not take a pause. If you find yourself having to skip seasons consistently, you might consider making changes to your husbandry - soil, fertilization, watering, amount of sun, decandling timing, etc.

- Scott
 
Was great getting to see this tree! I took a few pics but in my naivety excluded the Kusamono/accompaniment. Amazing history behind it as well.
 
Was great getting to see this tree! I took a few pics but in my naivety excluded the Kusamono/accompaniment. Amazing history behind it as well.
Great meeting you there and I was very happy to share its history with you.

S
 
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