Would you? Tulip Tree

I’ve been running into the same problem with my just-for-fun American sycamore experiment. The tree is very healthy, but it has an annoying habit of aborting branches that aren’t receiving direct sunlight for the full length of the day. I’m allowing the apex to grow unrestricted above the trunk chop, so the lower branches really struggle if I try to prune, wire, or otherwise work them at all. Even leaving them alone, they‘re kinda weak and sickly looking compared to the apex. I might have to wait to develop the branch structure until after I develop taper in the trunk. Fortunately, they put on girth as fast as any of the tropicals they grow near the equator, so it shouldn’t be much of a wait until I get to play around with that.
Yeah, sycamores have even more problems than tulip poplars.
 
I'm not saying don't do it, but a long time ago, I did accept the fact there are some species of trees that are much, much easier to work with than others.

Give me an elm, or juniper or crab apple or Satsuki azalea.

Well, Satsuki can be a bit more complicated, but it is not size reduction or ramification you are worrying about.
 
Dirrs says cuttings have about a 50% success rate but no mention of air layers. Not entirely sure how that translates.

also states cultivars must be grafted. But doesn’t specify why.

sounds like it won’t do good on its own roots if the air layer was successful?
 
Dirrs says cuttings have about a 50% success rate but no mention of air layers. Not entirely sure how that translates.

also states cultivars must be grafted. But doesn’t specify why.

sounds like it won’t do good on its own roots if the air layer was successful?
I could be wrong in this assertion and fear presenting a blanket statement; however, it seems to me that the standard of horticulture practice is to just graft pretty much all different varieties onto the common species root stock..

You’re making clones regardless to keep the specific variety at hand regardless, why waste time on experimenting with whether or not it can stand on its own two feet when grafting is your standard well known practice anyway.

Most common folks have no clue to look for a good graft or that the majority (or unique varieties) of nursery industry trees are grafted, and the industry definitely does not exactly cater to bonsai development.

That said, seems it is up to us or those similar botanically speaking to discover these traits in trees. Only one way to find out first hand…if it air layers quickly(ish) I would take that as a good sign. However, if it doesn’t, not exactly a bad sign either. Only time will tell.
 
My conundrum is I do like the tree a lot. And would hate to lose it to a failed layering attempt, even if it was on sale.
 
I wouldn’t mind having one. I’d keep I in a large pot and just keep it’s size reduced and enjoy the blooms in spring. It’s hard to see the blooms because they are always so high but they are one of my favorites.
 
Not sure why so many folks keep talking about the blooms -that, is likely to never happen.

Have heard rule of thumb safe minimum of airlayer is around a centimetre or slightly less…if you are not willing to sacrifice a branch this size, bonsai is not for you
 
Dirrs says cuttings have about a 50% success rate but no mention of air layers. Not entirely sure how that translates.

also states cultivars must be grafted. But doesn’t specify why.

sounds like it won’t do good on its own roots if the air layer was successful?

In THEORY, I have no hands on experience, so this is just me blowing smoke. If a tree can root from cuttings, in general that species roots fairly reliably as an air layer. But the warning is, no technique is 100% successful. "stuff happens" or "stuff can happen".

Your idea of air layering a branch off rather than the main trunk is reasonable.
 
Back
Top Bottom