WNC Bonsai
Masterpiece
I have one similar to that one I got for $80 a couple of years ago. Not worth that price IMHO.
Would you pay $400 for this JBP?
- Thread starter AcerAddict
- Start date
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Not worth the price in my opinion due to trunk scars and reverse taper. The auction pages on FB often inflate prices. I’ve sold plenty on there and have been surprised a few times on what people will pay.
Fonz
Chumono
Nor saying it's a bad tree but for that money you could get a lot more.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
To me it is a bad tree, the most difficult things to correct are the faults. All avoidable will take longer to correct than it would to start with younger material for 1/3 the price and you end up with better material.
n8
Shohin
My question was poorly written. I'm wondering why there would be a dearth of east coast growers for one of the most popular species.
I recently shipped a few hedge-grown boxwood from CA to MI and FL... and yeah, not cheap.
I'm getting another 50 JBP in the ground on the farm this spring, so just hang tight for 15 years and I'll do a truck stop tour.
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Set up a deal?
AcerAddict
Shohin
Not just yet. Considering my budget, I'm trying to decide now whether I want to buy a field-grown JBP and literally do everything myself (which would be quite fun and educational) or instead buy a pre-bonsai JBP that's already had just a little bit of training done, such as being put in a smaller pot, wired a little bit, etc. I love field-grown material and the blank canvas it presents, but on the other hand, I have SO much material at home already that is either really immature or rough around the edges. Most everything is a long ways from becoming anything substantial. Going with pre-bonsai might be the better decision here.
Last edited:
ChristianDGreat
Shohin
Me personally I would not pay that amount for that tree.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
As Dr Phil would say: Are you NUTS? NYET!
AcerAddict
Shohin
Yes, we've already established what a bad idea it would be for me to spend that much on that tree.
AcerAddict
Shohin
AcerAddict
Shohin
There's also these two, both of which are in training pots already. Photos aren't the greatest though.
- Training pot tree #1 ($375 shipped)
- Training pot tree #2 ($380 shipped)
mwar15
Omono
#2(the first one). more lower branches to work with. Plus you can put it in a pot of your choice
AcerAddict
Shohin
Right on. I'm not super fond of the training pots used on the other two anyway.
namnhi
Masterpiece
These two are terrible!
namnhi
Masterpiece
What is the pot size on these? One gallon can? What is the trunk gird?
AcerAddict
Shohin
Details are in the links I posted. First one has 2" base and is 20" tall. Second one has 2" base and 16" tall. It's also listed as being 13 years field-grown before being dug up and put into what looks like a tall 3 gallon pot. Assuming that guy's thumb is 1" across (my thumbs are exactly 1" across), then the trunk is at bare minimum 2" diameter, and possibly thicker. They definitely do no have little twigs for trunks.
Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Seller out of their mind! MAYBE worth 25% that? Or less
. See how long straight base is before bend. Aaack! Don't be desperate shopper/look for bargains/rescues/back row trees
. Patience, Patience.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
A few thought to consider on your quest.
Consider the proportion of the internode development! Do the sections become smaller as they progress up the trunk or are they inconsistent?
Does the thickness change in a natural way to introduce taper or does it appear like attached straighter sections? Some of that appearance can be just rough growth that will smooth out but in this case the section lengths are inconsistent and disproportionate. For example, if the first base section is 8 inches the next section should be less and so on and so on. This occurs more naturally with taper if the section change also involves a change of direction. It also helps if the grower retains two or three branches at the change of direction to aid in design on the outside of the curve with one branch becoming the new apical leader and another moving downward for part of the design. If a third branch is retained it can be used for design or as a sacrificial branch to aid in further taper development or thickness of the portion below that branch. The picture below shows an example of a carefully grown trunk using that method.
Consider the proportion of the internode development! Do the sections become smaller as they progress up the trunk or are they inconsistent?
Does the thickness change in a natural way to introduce taper or does it appear like attached straighter sections? Some of that appearance can be just rough growth that will smooth out but in this case the section lengths are inconsistent and disproportionate. For example, if the first base section is 8 inches the next section should be less and so on and so on. This occurs more naturally with taper if the section change also involves a change of direction. It also helps if the grower retains two or three branches at the change of direction to aid in design on the outside of the curve with one branch becoming the new apical leader and another moving downward for part of the design. If a third branch is retained it can be used for design or as a sacrificial branch to aid in further taper development or thickness of the portion below that branch. The picture below shows an example of a carefully grown trunk using that method.
Attachments
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
I think you should keep looking. Field-grown is only as good as the techniques used. You can still increase trunk girth with sacrifice branches in a "can". And keep the root-ball in "check".
"Aerial roots" are a feature of Figs. Not JBP. That's a poorly handled root sticking up off the soil.
"Aerial roots" are a feature of Figs. Not JBP. That's a poorly handled root sticking up off the soil.
Similar threads
