Winter Protection Methods

Haines' Trees

Shohin
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Location
Naperville, Il
USDA Zone
5b
Hey y’all!

As winter is upon us and some are experiencing snowfalls, I thought it would be cool for everyone to show off their protection methods they use for their collection. In addition to a chance to show off your plans and collection, I think it’d be cool for some of the newer people to see what goes into winter protection. I know I had no idea how to adequately protect my trees my first winter and it cost me quite a few...
 
I’ll go first!

Being in the Chicago area, my winters are all over the board. A few years ago we had a polar vortex which dropped temps to -25F and lower for a brief time, while staying below 0 for about 3 weeks straight. The following year was downright hot in comparison, with the temps rarely getting near 0 degrees. Because of this type of randomness, I err on the side of caution with many of my species.
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For my hardier species I sink the pots into my garden bed for the winter. These include my spruce, certain pines, native elms, maples, oak etc. After sinking them up to nearly the rim I mulched them in with grass clippings and shredded leaves. For my more delicate species, I put them in my unheated garage in a grow tent, mostly to keep the mice and whatnot away or so I hope.... Delicate pines are placed under a grow light for about 7 hours a day.

The fencing and top covering of chicken wire are there because my dog has no respect...
 
My landscape evergreens still get about that much light during the darkest weeks of winter, as do my hardier pine species that stay buried in the garden. They may be dormant but there is green on them so I give them light sparingly. Idk, it’s just what I’ve chosen to do 🤷🏻‍♂️

If anyone has lost vigor in their evergreens from keeping them under a grow light for short periods during the winter, I’d love to know. I’m not trying to kill off my hard work haha
 
My landscape evergreens still get about that much light during the darkest weeks of winter, as do my hardier pine species that stay buried in the garden. They may be dormant but there is green on them so I give them light sparingly. Idk, it’s just what I’ve chosen to do 🤷🏻‍♂️

If anyone has lost vigor in their evergreens from keeping them under a grow light for short periods during the winter, I’d love to know. I’m not trying to kill off my hard work haha
When I first started bonsai, I lost a few saplings from leaving evergreens in an area that receives some hours of sunlight during the winter months. After a little bit of research, I learned that the leaves can still photosynthesize, but the water lost during photosynthesis isn't replenished thus the leaf dries out.

However, I read some trees (like pines) aren't affected as harshly by this issue (I think it has to due with using less water in photosynthesis). Which is why I leave my pines in the area where I lost saplings. But since you're using grow lights and they're inside, I guess it's not an issue at all.
 
I know I had no idea how to adequately protect my trees my first winter and it cost me quite a few...

I don't want you to get too stuck on this as true.

9 times out of 10 newb trees that for over winter die because of summer work, not winter itself.

Hell, I reckon 4 out of 10 vets overwork, and consequentially overprotect for winter.

I believe overprotecting comes from a time when everyone was overworking trees, when they had no internet and 2 shitty books.

Short the dead tree design itself, I don't think there is a style that can't be accomplished without "overworking" a tree.

I have never protected anything beyond setting them on the ground, and I still have never lost a tree to winter alone. At least nothing I wasn't supposed to, like out of zone stuff.

I don't even believe winter kills trees.

I don't believe the "one zone" difference in a pot thing either, or maybe I just think it's foolish to do such math, or covet something one zone away.

Sorce
 
9 times out of 10 newb trees that for over winter die because of summer work, not winter itself.
That definitely could be the case. Doing too much top work in the warmer months thinking it’ll be fine long term. I did that with an Alberta spruce I had
 
Most trees suffer most damage from the wind. I have had trees frozen solid with no ill effects and then had trees killed by winds at higher temps. Protection from wind seems to be one of the biggest factors. I hate, hate, hate , windburn.
 
My first winter in canada grlwing trees (pray for me) i have 3 species that I put in the ground for the winter here and mulched the soil around them. Weeping willow, chinese wisteria, and a boxwood.
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And as for all my tropicals which is 50% citrus. I have some succulent bonsais as well sitting inside with a fan and a very powerful grow light about 24 to 30" above the plants for 11 hours a day.

We will see what I can keep alive as a noob haha
 
My first winter in canada grlwing trees (pray for me) i have 3 species that I put in the ground for the winter here and mulched the soil around them. Weeping willow, chinese wisteria, and a boxwood.
View attachment 339177

And as for all my tropicals which is 50% citrus. I have some succulent bonsais as well sitting inside with a fan and a very powerful grow light about 24 to 30" above the plants for 11 hours a day.

We will see what I can keep alive as a noob haha
If these get covered in snow they will be fine.
 
Yeah I’ve been thinking about what to do for wind protection, since a black pine I had got super desiccated last season yet somehow made it. Thinking of applying an anti-desiccant and then keeping a tarp or something similar handy in case of some real cold and windy days
 
I put mine in a window well with some clear plastic laid over the top. Its been in the low 20s nightly but not below like 48 in there so I’m a little concerned with it being too warm surprisingly. No heater or anything either! I am thinking I will just open the top slightly to cool it downin there. I have satsuki azaleas and jbps in there.
 
Any species that are more than one USDA hardiness zone less than my location stay against the north side of a garage. I'm in zone 6, so this is anything rated 4 or below. They get a little shredded leaves to mulch them in and are clustered together and surrounded by low fence clad in burlap. I don't worry about them much. I could probably just set these on the ground, but rabbits and wind are a concern, hence the fence and burlap.

Anything that is only rated to my zone or near, or that I want to be extra careful with, goes in a basement window well about 2-3' below grade. The window wells are covered with plastic covers loosely so there's still some airflow. They get some residual heat from the house and the ground. I have a few of these on the north side of my house, so heating from sunlight is not an issue. I also can use a covered basement stairwell (Bilco door).

Tropicals go indoors in south-facing windows, sitting in boot trays to catch water. I never have any issues with leaf drop in the fall, they grow all winter, and they get no supplemental light. An oscillating fan on low does absolute wonders for preventing mold, fungus gnats, and other issues.
 
I don't even believe winter kills trees.

On September 1 (yes, Labor Day) of this year we here on the Front Range went from approximately 85F to 9F in 24 hours. Trust me, that is a killer without proper protection. We have similar early and late storms every year, although this example was particularly extreme.

Winter can DEFINITELY kill bonsai trees.
 
MY ALTERNATIVE STORAGE IDEA THIS SEASON!!!

So the idea is for storage of prepared and rooted cuttings....to save space.And have more availability.Been reading articles from reforestation efforts of USDA and such.Common practice.....some people indicate the need for natural chilling and a set terminal bud before cooler/freezer storage is a myth!!!!!
One way to find out.
I installed a sensor for temp and humidity readings.
Tweaking it now...seems to be holding 34-38f &. Over 70% RH with supeisingly high humidity which is a good thing according to reforestation articles.Can easily get to 29f as I have adjusted slightly this morning to increase temperature.
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Remember that snow is an insulator. Trees actually survive better covered n snow than exposed to hard freezing with icy winds. That's why trees can survive in Russia and Canada during winter. At my Suwon place I actually shovel snow ONTO my trees, never lost one so far. works a treat.
 
Or could the cause be extreme hot or cold temperature fluctuations?
Trees need to build winter hardiness through successive exposures to sub freezing weather. I'd suspect that degree of severe cold exposure without previous lighter freezes would/could damage all but the most cold hardy species. With that being said, I DO believe that most trees that don't wake up from dormancy in the spring were likely not all that healthy entering dormancy the previous winter, or were mismanaged during the dormant period.
 
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