Is this adequate for winter protection?

[HorseloverFat]

By me, AHS Zone 2-3 (geographical microclimate)... We get -30/40 F peaks... And stay subzero (-10F through -20F)((these are all, obviously without wind chill))) for 2-3 weeks of "high winter"...

And myself and others who "container garden/Tiny Tree" around here use sheds/lean-tos..or tough STRUCTURES/buildings to winter darn near EVERYTHING.

You are a bit colder... I'd strongly recommend wintering QUARTERS.



Those totes, while being a neat idea, are also a detrimental idea for a number of reasons. (I didn't read, but am sure these issues were addressed)

Good luck, friend!

 

[HorseloverFat]

Nevermind...you are warmer than me....

Disregard...

You're in 5b..

And although the USDA zones my Area 5a, the AHS recognizes the climate created by the bays and Lakeshore, and terms the peninsula as 2-3.

Still... Wintering quarters IS still a good practice.

 

[penumbra]

I am a big fan of frost blankets that are made specifically for wintering plants. I have a couple hoop tunnels that I cover with frost blankets and I also use it over my cold frames. I use it over my cold frames to keep them from heating up too rapidly even though they are primarily in the shade. I like 2.5 oz fabric which is considered pretty heavy duty. But even the lighter fabric is useful. The heaviest one I know of is 4.5 oz, and that is more than I want or need. The heavier the fabric the less the light transmission. The 2.5 oz reduces it by about 40%.
I have actually had more plants damaged by becoming too warm in the winter than plants effected by cold.

 

[Dogestoevsky]

With the species you have, they’ll probably be fine mulched in against the building wall. I would second a wind barrier / frost blankets. I wouldn’t worry about cold killing your junipers or mugos; but winter wind might desiccate them.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Zone 4 Ontario Canada for several years living in a sosrtmrmt no access to the ground . I used a plywood constructed box about 3 feet deep 5 feet square styrofoam 1.5 inch insulation bottom and sides the box was filled with DE. Oil absorbent material
Like cat litter . Can buy this in the automotive trade . Buried in the absorbent was a electrical heat cable that is designed to wrap around water pipes to keep them from freezing . So the built in thermostat. Only comes on bellow freezing temp . The trees are then buried to just above the pot top in the medium . I went to a plastic supplier and made a clear plastic top for wind protection . Also was nice you can still see the trees from inside the apartment . This was sufficient for trees that are zone 4 hardy in nature . And a shimpaku that is a zone 5 tree survived this for 4 years . Below .15c the pots would be different degrees of frozen depending on size . Without the ability to use the natural heat in the ground I strongly recommend grouping the trees together in a container . And adding the heat cable . These are simple to find in a hardware store in any cold climate . Beyond that cold hardy trees will survive with frozen roots as long as they have wind protection . I currently use a non heated building with a insulated room without the trees buried in anything in the same climate