What type and size wire do you use to anchor trees into pots?

[Japonicus]

I've always used around 2mm aluminum wire through the holes in the bottom of a pot, with the ends above the soil,
but recently I've broken the wire before I had enough torque to keep the tree snug in its pot.
Copper works pretty good for guy wires, but anchoring a tree in a pot uses a lot of wire some years here.
This is one of those years for me and I need more torque.

 

[MrWunderful]

Galvanized steel wire works good but is more “springy”. It can be cheaper and a bit stronger though.

generally, peoples twist technique is more of the problem than the wire strength though. Make sure it is proper and 2mm should be fine.

 

[0soyoung]

2mm Al.
Technique, technique, technique
Practice, practice, practice

Start by twisting the two end snugly by hand.
Grasp the twist with piers.
Lift
Twist to take up the slack as you ease.
Rinse and repeat until tree is snugly/firmly in pot.

Wire always breaks when just 'cranking it'.

 

[River's Edge]

I've always used around 2mm aluminum wire through the holes in the bottom of a pot, with the ends above the soil,
but recently I've broken the wire before I had enough torque to keep the tree snug in its pot.
Copper works pretty good for guy wires, but anchoring a tree in a pot uses a lot of wire some years here.
This is one of those years for me and I need more torque.

The trick is as Osoyoung suggests. Proper technique, grasp both ends, lift up and out slowly, twist down to take up slack, repeat. Move from side to side to balance pressure or adjust planting angle. Slower steps with less pressure! 2mm will work with pretty large trees properly applied. Small amounts of rubber hose or aquarium tubing can help protects roots from wire cutting in.

 

[PiñonJ]

17 gauge galvanized steel electric fence wire. For jobs where I'm really concerned about the strain, I have some 16 gauge. Steel is much stronger than aluminum, or copper and it doesn't stretch, but it is harder to work with.

 

[Shima]

as you ease.

The key to happy twisting!

 

[0soyoung]

The key to happy twisting!

It deserves more than one emoji.

 

[Potawatomi13]

17g galvanized steel. Doesn't break as fast as Al wire under hard twisting. Saves on situations that really suck!

 

[clem]

17 gauge galvanized steel electric fence wire. For jobs where I'm really concerned about the strain, I have some 16 gauge. Steel is much stronger than aluminum, or copper and it doesn't stretch, but it is harder to work with.

It is what Ryan Neil advises : steel wire

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Usually 2mm al. Important to pull the ends up, then twist down to take up the slack, moving the pliers closer to the soil with each “bite”.

Preparing a pot

Preparing a pot to plant a bonsai requires a few steps. 1. Plastic canvas is cut, large enough to overlap each drainage hole. 2. Using a piece of wire (2-2.5 mm aluminum is good), make a “sta…

nebaribonsai.wordpress.com

 

[sorce]

Interesting, we must be getting more trees into pots as a group.

This is the third thread of this recently.

First 3 in 7 years!

Sorce

 

[bwaynef]

Twist. Then pull. Then twist. Then pull. Then Twist.

 

[sorce]

hard twisting.

Why hard twisting?

The twisting, regardless of wire, should never be hard.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

Pull, then twist down.

Sorce

 

[Gene Deci]

17 gauge galvanized steel electric fence wire. For jobs where I'm really concerned about the strain, I have some 16 gauge. Steel is much stronger than aluminum, or copper and it doesn't stretch, but it is harder to work with.

Plus it costs quite a bit less.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

1mm galvanized steel with a plastic green coating adding up to roughly 1.3mm total. Mine can withstand roughly 20kg of tension, but it does snap sometimes when twisting. The big benefit is the plastic coating; it doesn't rust.
Or aluminium 1.5mm when I have it within arms reach. Way softer and way weaker, but also more plyable.

 

[leatherback]

It helps to ensure the wire is snuck along the bottom of the pot. I was taught to fold the wire to fit te holes of the pot which saves a lot of pulling.

 

[Japonicus]

generally, peoples twist technique is more of the problem than the wire strength

You said it 1st, and I'm sure you're right.

2mm Al.
Technique, technique, technique
Practice, practice, practice

Start by twisting the two end snugly by hand.
Grasp the twist with piers.
Lift
Twist to take up the slack as you ease.
Rinse and repeat until tree is snugly/firmly in pot.

Wire always breaks when just 'cranking it'.

Sounds like maybe the lifting needs more attention.
I do as you described initially, but maybe I'm not lifting after the twist begins.
Sometimes the wire will begin to make a lateral swirl like a swirl pool, so sure, technique.

It helps to ensure the wire is snuck along the bottom of the pot. I was taught to fold the wire to fit te holes of the pot which saves a lot of pulling.

Precisely how I wire the pot, glad I'm doing something right

 

[Japonicus]

Interesting, we must be getting more trees into pots as a group.

This is the third thread of this recently.

First 3 in 7 years!

Sorce

My search function technique is even worse. I actually tried that feature 1st believe it or not.

Why hard twisting?

Security. Not wanting the tree to move while fragile roots are born and taking hold.
The shimpaku and procumbens I just potted up are quite the wind sail at nearly 2 ft tall
and as wide or more with very full foliage. I try to make them as secure as I can.

 

[Japonicus]

Usually 2mm al. Important to pull the ends up, then twist down to take up the slack, moving the pliers closer to the soil with each “bite”.

Preparing a pot

Preparing a pot to plant a bonsai requires a few steps. 1. Plastic canvas is cut, large enough to overlap each drainage hole. 2. Using a piece of wire (2-2.5 mm aluminum is good), make a “sta…

nebaribonsai.wordpress.com

This here.
See, I've been grasping the ends, crossing the "wires" as close to the soil as I can, and pulling apart in opposite directions
as tight as I can, which gets the twist starting down low. It sounds like your technique begins the twist up high away from the soil.
I will try this next time, and see if the wire still gets the same tension and breaking point once the coil has spiraled down to the soil.
EDIT: I'll have to experiment with that pig tail 4 way tie down. Thanks for the link.

Thanks to all for their input. I know galvanized wire and copper wire helped with my guy wiring significantly
as the aluminum wire typically broke too soon. Got lucky on a few that needed less tension as would be expected
but the type of wire there was my big help.