What fungicide do you use?

[Yo Mango]

I’ve been using at times both direct fungicide and systemic fungicide from Bonide. I usually don’t see much improvement and have to take other measures.

Maybe folks are getting better results with other brands and types, so I was curious what other bonsai nuts use and if you can share thoughts and feedback here. Thanks!

 

[Hbhaska]

I’ve used mancozeb with consistently good results.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

A bit of copper sulfate. And that's about it.

Needlecast free for the past two years, some minor juniper rust that was already there.

 

[Bnana]

None, I just grow trees that are suitable to my climate and don't need fungicides. The only "pesticide" I use is water with soap and alcohol.

 

[just.wing.it]

I think mancozeb beat my Juniper tip blight last year, and Bonide Infuse granular beat my JBP needlecast last year too. Using both on both now....once do far this year. May give a second dose in a week or 2.

 

[Bnana]

Mancozeb has been banned in the EU as it has been linked to Parkinson's disease. I don't know the current state of the active compounds of Bionide but think it's being phased out as it causes birth defects and other health risks.

I do like my trees but I like my family and myself more.

 

[bwaynef]

I have & have used Zerotol, Daconil, Thiophonate Methyl (in varying products), Captan, Mancozeb, Myclobutanil, Copper, Phyton27, and Propiconazole. Neem is also somewhat fungicidal ...and a mix of milk & water is an effective treatment for powdery mildew. Lime sulfur and Horticultural Oil are other products I've used that list fungicidal properties.

So far this year I've only applied ThioMyl (Infuse Granular) ...about 6 weeks ago. I'll probably make an application of Daconil in an effort to prevent needlecast soon, and a few weeks after refresh the Thiomyl/Infuse Granular as well. Years past I would've sprayed Mancozeb preventively on junipers, but I think I'm going to let it ride until I see issues.

After dormant season sprays (Oil & LS) and a move to full-sun (or close to it), I'm noticing a LOT LESS disease pressure (though not necessarily none) this year. Oh, and better spacing/placement of/between trees as well. (Fast draining, inorganic soil is beneficial as well.) Preventing conditions that lead to the need for fungicides is better than having to figure out what disease you're dealing with, then figuring out what spray (EFFECTIVELY) treats that disease, ...and then figuring out what you have to don to safely apply the spray. I get that its not always possible to eliminate the disease pressure due to locale, ...but I think its worth doing the things that you can.

 

[Paradox]

Bonide Infuse granules for a systemic fungicide

Copper spray and Daconil spray

 

[sorce]

Health.

Sorce

 

[Yo Mango]

Mancozeb has been banned in the EU as it has been linked to Parkinson's disease. I don't know the current state of the active compounds of Bionide but think it's being phased out as it causes birth defects and other health risks.

I do like my trees but I like my family and myself more.

I have & have used Zerotol, Daconil, Thiophonate Methyl (in varying products), Captan, Mancozeb, Myclobutanil, Copper, Phyton27, and Propiconazole. Neem is also somewhat fungicidal ...and a mix of milk & water is an effective treatment for powdery mildew. Lime sulfur and Horticultural Oil are other products I've used that list fungicidal properties.

So far this year I've only applied ThioMyl (Infuse Granular) ...about 6 weeks ago. I'll probably make an application of Daconil in an effort to prevent needlecast soon, and a few weeks after refresh the Thiomyl/Infuse Granular as well. Years past I would've sprayed Mancozeb preventively on junipers, but I think I'm going to let it ride until I see issues.

After dormant season sprays (Oil & LS) and a move to full-sun (or close to it), I'm noticing a LOT LESS disease pressure (though not necessarily none) this year. Oh, and better spacing/placement of/between trees as well. (Fast draining, inorganic soil is beneficial as well.) Preventing conditions that lead to the need for fungicides is better than having to figure out what disease you're dealing with, then figuring out what spray (EFFECTIVELY) treats that disease, ...and then figuring out what you have to don to safely apply the spray. I get that its not always possible to eliminate the disease pressure due to locale, ...but I think its worth doing the things that you can.

Wow… great info and sharing. Thanks!

 

[Lorax7]

This question is kind of like asking a physician, "What antibiotic do you use for your patients?" The only correct answer is, "It depends."

What species of tree is it? What kind of fungus do you think it has (or, if using it prophylactically, what type of fungus are you expecting but hoping to prevent)? If the problem has been going on for a while, what have you been using previously and is that still working (if not, maybe it's time to switch it up and try something else)?

 

[Yo Mango]

This question is kind of like asking a physician, "What antibiotic do you use for your patients?" The only correct answer is, "It depends."

What species of tree is it? What kind of fungus do you think it has (or, if using it prophylactically, what type of fungus are you expecting but hoping to prevent)? If the problem has been going on for a while, what have you been using previously and is that still working (if not, maybe it's time to switch it up and try something else)?

I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.

 

[penumbra]

Infuse handled the few problems I had.

 

[penumbra]

I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.

Where are you? I am curious what kind of climate you have.

 

[Tums]

What dosage of infuse do people use for their pots? I think I read the label and didn't see instructions for potted plants.

 

[Yo Mango]

Where are you? I am curious what kind of climate you have.

South Florida 12a/b

 

[bwaynef]

I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.

Here's the output of a search for mildew of the fungicides I've bothered to read the labels on:
grep -i mildew *.txt

actinovate.txtowny Mildew
actinovate.txtowdery Mildew
agriphos.txtowny Mildew
azoxystrobin.txtowdery Mildew
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txtowny Mildew
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txtowdery Mildew
bacillus-subtillis.txtowny Mildew
bacillus-subtillis.txtowdery Mildew
biophospro.txtowny Mildew
biophospro.txtowny Mildew Blackrot
biophospro.txtowdery Mildew
biosafe.txtowny Mildew
biosafe.txtowdery Mildew
captan.txtowny Mildew
chlorothalanil.txtowdery Mildew
clearys3336.txtowdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
copper.txtowny Mildew
copper.txthytophthora Mildew
copper.txtowdery Mildew
daconil.txtowdery Mildew
dormantoil.txtowdery Mildew
gardenphos.txtowny Mildew
heritage.txtowdery Mildew
immunox.txtowdery Mildew
infusegranular.txtowdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
infuseliquid.txtowdery Mildew
infuseliquid.txt:Rust Powdery Mildew
mancozeb.txtowny Mildew
mefenoxam.txtowny Mildew
myclobutanil.txtowdery Mildew
neem.txtowny Mildew
neem.txtowdery Mildew
phyton27.txtowny Mildew
phyton27.txtowdery Mildew
phyton35.txtowny Mildew
phyton35.txtowdery Mildew
potassium-bicarb.txtowny Mildew
potassium-bicarb.txtowdery Mildew
potassiumsalts-PhosAcid.txtowny Mildew
propiconazole.txtowdery Mildew
propiconazole.txt:Rust Powdery Mildew
serenade.txtowdery Mildew
subdue.txtowny Mildew
sulfur.txtowdery Mildew
thiomyl.txtowdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
zerotol.txtowny Mildew
zerotol.txtowdery Mildew

 

[bwaynef]

There's a : and either a D or P in the output given above. Apologies for appearing to emote exessively.

 

[SWfloirda]

South Florida 12a/b

As far as I know Florida only reaches 11a and that would be the keys. I am in zone 10a, keep everything outside and have zero fungal problems.

 

[badatusernames]

I'm just getting into preventative maintenance this year so this is of interest. I picked up some Cleary's 3336 for foliar based on the Bjorn video on Bonsai U. The Infuse I ordered came in liquid form, I thought I had ordered the systemic.

Is it not a good idea to apply the systemic later in the season?