The Hemlock (Tsuga) Discussion THREAD.
- Thread starter ghues
- Start date
Bavarian Raven
Mame
I guess our battle to get a hemlock only section (like the pines and junipers get) has failed? :/ oh well. Loving this thread still. Got some pics to post come spring.
Cable
Omono
Sorry, just noticed your question.
I went back and double checked to be sure I hadn't noted the wrong date but nope, pics in my folder are right in sequence so that definitely came in May. It grew really well this year. Happy little tree!
Thanks! What do you use for fertilizer if I can ask?
Cable
Omono
This is a collected tree planted in a pond basket in a mix containing diatomaceous earth, lava rock, and perlite. The shin is still field soil. I fertilize with a mixture of fish emulsion and liquid kelp.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Collected tree with challenges. Two twisted trunks with three apex, One trunk split near the top and divided into two equal leaders!
First challenge, crossing trunks. Second challenge trunk move away in a slingshot type movement 1/2 way up, one trunk has a straighter section, the other has plenty of movement.
Chose the following approach, ignore the crossing trunks after all it is Yamadori and adds character. the tree is older as evidenced in the mature lower bark.
Using my smaller Bonsai Jack and a fulcrum block at the pressure point I created a bend to mimic the other trunk and bring the tops together for a single apex! Note the trunks were protected with raffia and stabilizing wire prior to the work. This will also preserve the original twists and turns lower down from changing during the process. you will note rubber pads and wire within tubing to protect these locations. The actual bend was done over a three hour period allowing the trunk to rest and release strain before resuming with a few more turns. Only heard one small crack!
Once in position the bend secured with wire within tubing! I then proceeded to create a short top jin of the rear trunk just where it aligns with the front trunk approximately 10 inches below the apex.
So far I have only roughly wired portions of the larger branches for general positioning. To complete the wiring, placement and pad outlines will take another longer session of more detailed work.
This Mountain Hemlock shows some variation in colour and foliage that likely indicates some hybridization.
Hope the explanation makes sense and the pictures show part of the process. As is often the case I became engrossed in the work and forgot to take a picture of the starting point. The first picture shows the stage where I have used the jack to create the bend to mimic the front trunk! For reference the two trunk were approximately 7 inches apart when the process began. Currently they are 2 1/2 inches apart in the same section.
First challenge, crossing trunks. Second challenge trunk move away in a slingshot type movement 1/2 way up, one trunk has a straighter section, the other has plenty of movement.
Chose the following approach, ignore the crossing trunks after all it is Yamadori and adds character. the tree is older as evidenced in the mature lower bark.
Using my smaller Bonsai Jack and a fulcrum block at the pressure point I created a bend to mimic the other trunk and bring the tops together for a single apex! Note the trunks were protected with raffia and stabilizing wire prior to the work. This will also preserve the original twists and turns lower down from changing during the process. you will note rubber pads and wire within tubing to protect these locations. The actual bend was done over a three hour period allowing the trunk to rest and release strain before resuming with a few more turns. Only heard one small crack!
Once in position the bend secured with wire within tubing! I then proceeded to create a short top jin of the rear trunk just where it aligns with the front trunk approximately 10 inches below the apex.
So far I have only roughly wired portions of the larger branches for general positioning. To complete the wiring, placement and pad outlines will take another longer session of more detailed work.
This Mountain Hemlock shows some variation in colour and foliage that likely indicates some hybridization.
Hope the explanation makes sense and the pictures show part of the process. As is often the case I became engrossed in the work and forgot to take a picture of the starting point. The first picture shows the stage where I have used the jack to create the bend to mimic the front trunk! For reference the two trunk were approximately 7 inches apart when the process began. Currently they are 2 1/2 inches apart in the same section.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Thought these close ups would explain the description of work better!
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Natural Hemlock pad development! These have been untouched, simply the natural form! it is easy to see how the pad development techniques taught for hemlock development were inspired. It is also easy to see what happens when the interior is shaded out by canopy! importance of wiring in development. Natural pad from the top and then from the side.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
When you say natural pad development, are you saying you did not wire or prund these pads? Im a bit confused by the nomenclature. I mean, obviously youve pruned these pads at least.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Correct, This pad in the two pictures from above and the side is natural. Tree was collected in that state! I have just begun to work on the tree! I posted the two pictures to illustrate the natural formation of pads, as opposed to what we attempt to emulate with our wiring and bonsai pruning techniques! A good illustration of how pad development techniques were actually developed. I also wanted to point out that if the branches are not wired flatter the underneath foliage dies off and leaves bare branches as evident in the side photo. Hope the further explanation helps. No pruning or wiring prior.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
Thanks! It looks like the pad was wired and pruned into that position! I have a collected younger tsuga which Im going to start working on this spring. Any advice on early development techniques for the species?
I just collected this fall, so im not going to repot this spring. I was going to do a spring prune then heavily fertilize all season. Anything else worth considering?
I just collected this fall, so im not going to repot this spring. I was going to do a spring prune then heavily fertilize all season. Anything else worth considering?
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Good Question! I pointed out the natural tendency for that reason. it is important to wire out and thin out foliage before it extends too much and shades out the foliage closer in on the primary and secondary branches. Be sure to keep branches closer to the interior, understanding that the smaller closer in branches will be used to develop the eventual pads. I work primarily with mountain hemlock and back budding does not occur so the foliage needs to be retained as close to the interior as possible. Note the natural pad formation only has foliage on the branch tips, the rest has died off!
treepirate
Sapling
Whats the timing to stimulate back budding? I've tried for years... Different soils and different repotting schedules and still nothing. Great trees by the way river#20 is suitable for new shoots, of no long term use in anything older or lignified! Branches will not hold a downward form without repeated wiring!
For initial pad formation the branches forming the pad are wired in a similar flattened plane to counteract the natural upward shoot growth. When thinning for alternate branching it is important to leave occasional top shoots to wire in the centre! Otherwise the main leader will be bare in the centre of the pad. Repeated cutback to create density with side shoots! The preferred pad shape in my mind is an elongated diamond pattern. As with species that do not bud back beyond foliage retain branches closest to trunk when developing pads and wire out the end to replace thicker leader cut back.
From your pictures the growth habit appears to be the same as young mertensiana. As we seek to portray older more mature trees the wiring and pruning becomes a regular routine.
My Hemlocks range in size from 36 inches tall to 16 inches tall. The tapered thicker trunk one above, and in the Anderson flat is 16 inches tall. The twin trunk in the Sarah Rayner pot is 36 inches tall! The slimmer bunjin style is 30 inches tall, it is also in an Anderson flat! Tree's still in development remain in growth containers until the final stages of refinement! At least that is my practise
ghues
Omono
@treepirate, just for clarification, Frank of Rivers Edge noted that it has been his experience with Mountain Hemlock, they don’t backbud.
Bavarian Raven
Mame
Hemlocks (at least the western ones) don’t back bud.
sfeagan
Yamadori
I found a nice small hemlock in the woods that's on an incline. When is the right time to dig and put in a pot?
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Based on my experience and training with Mountain and Western Hemlock they do not back bud beyond live foliage on the branch. You must always cut back to existing buds and can only expect additional buds to form within the live foliage. Another quirk is the springy branches that require careful wiring and complete wiring of even the smallest shoots for refinement purposes. I would not recommend trying to refine this species without the assistance of a careful wiring program. Be prepared to remove and re apply wire in order to obtain desired results. Also, the manner in which the wire is applied plays a large role in how effective it holds position. Simply put not a species for those with poor wiring technique! The close fishbone type of branch formation requires careful branch selection for pad formation and retention of some upward facing branches for coverage within the central portion of the pad. As in most cases of pad formation downward branches are usually removed or re-positioned if they must be kept. You cannot simply alternate branch removal as the branch movement needs to be adjusted for, in design changes. For those looking for detailed species suggestions for foliage development, pruning and wiring pads some of the best information in North America is contained in the blogs of Michael Hagedorn.
Crateagus.com
One of the best written resources is found in David Degroots latest book " Principles of Bonsai Design" published in 2015. In particular Chapter 7 on Branch structure. My personal preference is the layered branch pad structure in a modified elongated diamond shape, rather than the traditional platform branch structure with thinner foliage and barer branch structure.
PS: this is a great resource for Bonsai Design overall.
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MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
Spring, right as the the buds start to move is the ideal time in my experience. Try to get as many fine feeder roots as possible; and if you can’t get many, keep it in semi shade for the first year. I used a well draining soil (Boonish mix) with some added spaghnum and compost (5-10%). They seem to appreciate some organic component.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Update for Mountain Hemlock initial styling! This morning I finished the basics for the first styling of this tree! I have selected and positioned branches, placed wire on most of the foliage and prepared it for the coming growing season. I will let it recover prior to repotting to improve the planting angle and work on the roots. If all goes well that will be planned for the early fall 2021. if recovery and foliage is slower than will wait till spring 2022 for the repot and planting angle change. My direction at this point will be tilting back approximately 5 to 10 degrees. If foliage growth is very healthy, a lot of wire will need to be checked by mid summer to prevent cutting in to much. Four pictures to show all sides. Remember this is the first styling and not expected to look anything but rough.
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