Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Yeah, we know who you rub shoulders with...
The Five Year "Native Tree, Native Pot" Challenge!
- Thread starter zanduh
- Start date
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Discrimination on experience?Sorry, this isn't a Pro-Am, this is an amateur event and you can judge, but you can't play. Next thing we know Bill Valvanis will find a "starter" Larch somewhere in his backyard, then Pedro Morales will collect a Fig and there is no place on Puerto Rico that is more than a hundred miles from him, and remember Andy Smith lives in the Badlands... I could go on.
I know a few people that can pull yamadori beach from forest fringes which after a cutback and 1 season could go in a bonsai pot and enter refinement. Lucky them. Does not mean I would not give them a run for their money with a sapling.
stu929
Shohin
I have to dig through all the trees I just picked up and see if any of it is native. Being a complete noob it would be awesome if there was a thread like this where some vets could talk though things with noobs. Long term vision and progression is still something I very much struggle with so what to cut and when to cut are still a big challenge for me.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Lucky you, this is the place. Start a thread for each with pictures and ask for specific input, and go from there.
HorseloverFat
Squarepants with Conkers
stu929
Shohin
I still need to make sure I have native species. I know one is for sure but I don't want to do an oak. I'm making a list of everything I have to see if it's native.
HorseloverFat
Squarepants with Conkers
Start with Government sites like DNR... then the University Sites... LOTS of good information about natives.
I’ll look quick... Pennsylvania, right?
That might help a little bit.
stu929
Shohin
Thank you. I have been bouncing around a few sites and the info varies some. Looks like I may have a few candidates, wish I had seen this thread when leaves were still on, would make it easier to identify things in the wild.
Initial ideas.....Allegheny Serviceberry, dogwood, hemlock ( know nothing about and no idea how to style it lol) Bald Cypress (this caught me by surprise), American Hornbeam, Red Oak ( oak doesn't scream bonsai to me), ninebark, and crabapple.
I have come to the realization I need to better learn to identify trees in the wild. My uncle owns 100 acres I could go and dig things up from but I have never been good with species identification. Guess its time to get better!!!
HorseloverFat
Squarepants with Conkers
Absolutely! Collecting is a great thrill! If you have access to the land.. use it!
During my first spring collection season I collected a few species that I identified incorrectly (Because they were naked). It happens..
stu929
Shohin
I have what I was told was an American Hornbeam by a nursery but he wasn't sure as it was already naked. That is one that I was debating entering, but I honestly want to just spend a day walking and digging on my uncles land, if I can figure out what I find lol.Absolutely! Collecting is a great thrill! If you have access to the land.. use it!
During my first spring collection season I collected a few species that I identified incorrectly (Because they were naked). It happens..
I actually feel the same way about 2 of the dogwoods I have. I know they aren't kousa but I don't know what they are exactly. They were in the reject pile without a tag.
stu929
Shohin
When I saw the top of the tree had frozen and died but the bottom was still alive I snatched this up.Absolutely! Collecting is a great thrill! If you have access to the land.. use it!
During my first spring collection season I collected a few species that I identified incorrectly (Because they were naked). It happens..
We had a crazy frost and snow in may this year that killed a lot of trees.
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Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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Serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.) and flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) make excellent bonsai, especially for slender graceful styles. The other native dogwoods tend to be shrubby, so getting a good ID for your dogwood is helpful. Hemlock is good, American hornbeam is excellent. Bald cypress is good. Ninebark does not have an great track record, the dwarf varieties, with smaller leaves are worth looking at. Malus - the crab apples, there are only 4 or 5 species native to North America, and only one native to the eastern half of USA. Chances are very high that any crab apple you encounter is an introduced species or hybrid from Europe or Asia. So crabapples probably won't qualify unless you can positively identify the one species native to your area.
Your Uncle's farm should have a number of good candidates. I personally have been "championing" for more use of Serviceberry. Just about every State, and every county of the 49 states and all Canadian provinces have at least one often more native species of Amelanchier.
stu929
Shohin
II
I really like the base on my Serviceberry so it will likely be one of the ones I try. Beyond that I'm not sure. I would love to do a dogwood. Mostly that is me being selfish as dogwood is my favorite tree, we have 4 in our yard. I grabbed three from a local nursery this summer. They had a bunch that had free damage they were practically giving away. Happens to be the same place I got the baldy I have too. I have a bunch of reject scrap material but that's how I roll since I don't know what I'm doing yet
BunjaeKorea
Omono
This whole website is for that
stu929
Shohin
Yes, I agree for the most part. I wish there was more dedication to progression threads. It helps noobs to understand how things grow and change. I really want to do a hemlock, and I have one I got for nothing. That being said I can't for the life of me figure out where to start with the shape it currently is. Developing nibari and overall shape are where I struggle. I'm trying to think ahead but actually seeing things develop over years helps the inexperienced understand better what to expect. Half the time I'm paralyzed by worrying I'm going to take off a branch that I can't replace or chase the wrong line.
I will continue to take in as much content as possible unfortunately hands on time is something I cannot substitute for.
HorseloverFat
Squarepants with Conkers
Progressions Resource - I need your help!
Bonsai folks - one thing that I value almost above all on this forum is the time and effort that people put into educational progression threads. They are absolutely invaluable to newbs like myself and experienced folks alike to show what's possible and how to get from point A to point B. I...
www.bonsainut.com
Just soak up all the information you can... search for “...from nursery stock”-style videos, they help you get past that “making your first move” paralysis...
Then.. just get your hands dirty... only way to learn is to to try.
stu929
Shohin
Ryan from Mirai is hilarious. He said there are two types of people. You either clip something tiny and are worried you will kill it or people who butcher it right away. My very first attempt I butchered. Since then I've been super timid. If it I'm working on trash I don't want to kill it.Progressions Resource - I need your help!
Bonsai folks - one thing that I value almost above all on this forum is the time and effort that people put into educational progression threads. They are absolutely invaluable to newbs like myself and experienced folks alike to show what's possible and how to get from point A to point B. I...www.bonsainut.com
Just soak up all the information you can... search for “...from nursery stock”-style videos, they help you get past that “making your first move” paralysis...
Then.. just get your hands dirty... only way to learn is to to try.
Trust me in trying to take in as much as I can. Now it's about remembering it and keeping it straight in my head. I had been looking for a good calendar that lists when it's ok to do certain things to species. I know it all varies by area and I would work that part out but just a general rule of thumb.... Spring summer fall do this don't do that to make sure I don't make a major mistake on a species and kill it. Hopefully it will come with time.
BunjaeKorea
Omono
The Forum demands photos! And we shall have our photos. Go now, go take! Go!
stu929
Shohin
It's dark out but I will take some tomorrow to ask for ideas.
I'm hoping things with covid calm down and I can take a class sometime soon. I'm a very visual learner so getting to see some stuff in person will definitely help.
Here is one I use for Central Ohio. Your mileage may vary...
Month - Season - Average High / Average Low
January - Mid Winter - 36/20
Only water when soil is almost dry. Soil may stay damp for many weeks without the need for water.
Heavy pruning of deciduous trees can be completed in winter, while the tree is dormant. It may be best to wait until early spring, when dead branches from winter are more noticeable.
Start deciding which trees will be repotted in spring. Make a list of available pots, and which trees will work with them. Having a battle plan is very useful once the chaos of spring arrives. Order repotting supplies such as new pots, soil, wire, drainage mesh, etc.
Protect your trees from direct winter sun and wind as it will cause freeze dry damage.
You may place mothballs in the mulch around your trees to prevent mouse damage.
Extra mulch or protection is needed if the temps fall below 20, especially for elms, maples and other fleshy rooted plants.
February - Late Winter - 39/22
Wire conifers now through early summer.
This is the best month for repotting conifers.
Use a dormant pest spray to keep pests away in early spring.
All tips from January apply in February.
March - Early Spring - 50/31
Repot deciduous trees if their buds are starting to swell. If you wait until the leaves have emerged, you will need to take more care to keep the tree out of direct sunlight and wind.
Be sure to check wire from last year. The spring's growth will cause tight wire to cut into the tree. Remove any that is tight. This should be done year round as well. If the branch did not hold its shape, reapply wire.
You can wire branches on all trees, but be careful of buds and swelling branches caused by growth.
Grafting is possible on most trees now through spring.
You may bring hardy trees out of winter protection now, as most can handle temperature above 20°F.
This is an ideal time to take hardwood cuttings from deciduous trees.
April - Mid Spring - 62/40
This month, most deciduous will have buds swelling and leaves emerging. Be ready to repot if needed.
Repot pines and juniper this month, after the candles (pine buds) begin to swell.(
Start balanced fertilization as new growth begins. Continue fertilization until mid summer.
Spray to control pests that feed on fresh, early growth.
This is a good month to take pine and juniper cuttings.
Allow new deciduous growth to extend to 3 leaves or leaf pairs, and then cut back to 1-2 leaves or leaf pairs. Continue through summer.
Most non-tropical trees should be outdoors by the end of April.
BEWARE: There always seems to be a late frost from April-May. Watch for frost advisories and protect your trees by bringing them into a garage, basement, or by using a cloth netting. All new growth is susceptible to frost damage.
May - Late Spring - 73/50
Start hardening up indoor tree growth by using an oscillating fan a few hours a day.
You should move tropicals outdoors now. Introduce tropicals to the sunlight gradually. Be careful of night time temperatures <45°F. You may also leave tropicals indoors year round, but most will benefit from the outdoors.
Most deciduous trees have the leaves out sometime in May.
Holding back fertilizer for pines can keep their needles shorter.
Perform air-layers on trees once their leaves are fully emerged.
Start fertilizing with a balanced 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 fertilizer for most trees.
Trees will be using more water now that they are actively growing.
Re-pot any later emerging species, and any that show signs of being pot bound – they won't make it through July and August if you don't.
Pinch or cut back long pine candles to encourage back budding and a more dense overall growth
June - Early Summer - 82/59
This is a good month to air layer trees.
After you remove dead flowers, Rhododendron and Azalea are ready for pruning.
Wiring stiff deciduous is easier now that sap is flowing. Foliage makes this task more difficult though.
Continue pruning deciduous and tropicals for shape and to force growth that is more compact.
All trees will be in full growth mode, so water usage is significantly increased.
White or 5-Needle Pines: Cut stronger/top candles first, then lower/weaker candles a few weeks later.
Black or 2-Needle Pines: Cut weak/lower candles first, then strong/top candles a few weeks later.
You may completely defoliate strong and healthy deciduous trees to produce smaller foliage and ramification. Do not wait any later than June, or the tree’s new growth may not harden up enough in time for winter. This technique should not be completed in successive years, as it is stressful on the tree. This technique is usually reserved for maples.
July - Mid Summer - 85/64
This is the hottest time of year, so most trees need water every day. Water in the morning, the evening, or both. Watering in the evening may increase the risk of fungus. Some trees’ roots will not take up water in the extreme heat. If your root ball remains wet in hot temperatures, do not re-water. You may want to repot this tree next season.
Remove old needles on pines. They should be discolored and useless now.
Creating Jin and Shari is easier in the summer due to sap flow. Removing bark from live branches is easiest when restyling and difficult from truly dead wood.
Protect trees with delicate foliage, from the sun, such as Japanese maple. This applies through the summer season.
Tropical trees should be in the peak of their growth. Hard pruning can occur now on tropicals.
Summer repotting should not be done, but if it is necessary, disturb roots as little as possible. Transplant these trees either into the ground or into a larger pot with more soil.
August - Late Summer - 84/62
Continue pruning, but watch for buds and think about next year's growth.
Use lime-sulfur on jin and deadwood in summer. The heat and sun helps it absorb into the wood, and the sunlight bleaches it quickly.
Most deciduous and pines have a semi-dormant period in the extreme heat of summer. Be cautious of watering.
August-September is the ideal time for repotting tropical trees.
You may start lowering the Nitrogen content of your fertilizer to slow foliar growth in preparation for fall and winter.
September - Early Autumn - 77/54
This is an ideal time to start root over rock plantings and other root development projects. The tree is starting to concentrate growth in the roots and use less energy on the foliage.
Lower the nitrogen content of your fertilizer this month. Switch to a 0-10-10 fertilizer. The lack of nitrogen slows foliar growth, which will force the branches to toughen up to deal with winter's wrath.
This is the second best time for repotting. Once the leaves turn color, the tree is dormant. You may transplant deciduous after this. This is better done in the beginning of the month.
This is a good time to collect wild trees.
Bring tropicals back indoors towards the end of the month, or when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F at night.
Spray your tropicals with pesticide before you bring them indoors. This may take multiple applications over a few weeks.
Watch out for fall pests. Squirrels are especially harmful, as they are digging and foraging for winter.
October - Mid Autumn - 65/43
Trees will be using much less water now that the foliage is going dormant. Do not water unless needed.
Try not to prune deciduous in the fall as it may force new growth that will not survive winter. Wait until the tree is fully dormant.
Prepare your winter storage area now, before winter sets in.
November - Late Autumn - 51/34
Stop fertilization for outdoors trees.
Only water when soil is nearly dry.
Clean up trees in preparation for winter.
December - Early Winter - 40/25
You may wire trees, as their lack of leaves makes it easier this time of year.
Move your less hardy and smaller trees into a protected area. This may be a cold frame, an unheated garage, a cool basement, or mulched near the side of a building.
Month - Season - Average High / Average Low
January - Mid Winter - 36/20
Only water when soil is almost dry. Soil may stay damp for many weeks without the need for water.
Heavy pruning of deciduous trees can be completed in winter, while the tree is dormant. It may be best to wait until early spring, when dead branches from winter are more noticeable.
Start deciding which trees will be repotted in spring. Make a list of available pots, and which trees will work with them. Having a battle plan is very useful once the chaos of spring arrives. Order repotting supplies such as new pots, soil, wire, drainage mesh, etc.
Protect your trees from direct winter sun and wind as it will cause freeze dry damage.
You may place mothballs in the mulch around your trees to prevent mouse damage.
Extra mulch or protection is needed if the temps fall below 20, especially for elms, maples and other fleshy rooted plants.
February - Late Winter - 39/22
Wire conifers now through early summer.
This is the best month for repotting conifers.
Use a dormant pest spray to keep pests away in early spring.
All tips from January apply in February.
March - Early Spring - 50/31
Repot deciduous trees if their buds are starting to swell. If you wait until the leaves have emerged, you will need to take more care to keep the tree out of direct sunlight and wind.
Be sure to check wire from last year. The spring's growth will cause tight wire to cut into the tree. Remove any that is tight. This should be done year round as well. If the branch did not hold its shape, reapply wire.
You can wire branches on all trees, but be careful of buds and swelling branches caused by growth.
Grafting is possible on most trees now through spring.
You may bring hardy trees out of winter protection now, as most can handle temperature above 20°F.
This is an ideal time to take hardwood cuttings from deciduous trees.
April - Mid Spring - 62/40
This month, most deciduous will have buds swelling and leaves emerging. Be ready to repot if needed.
Repot pines and juniper this month, after the candles (pine buds) begin to swell.(
Start balanced fertilization as new growth begins. Continue fertilization until mid summer.
Spray to control pests that feed on fresh, early growth.
This is a good month to take pine and juniper cuttings.
Allow new deciduous growth to extend to 3 leaves or leaf pairs, and then cut back to 1-2 leaves or leaf pairs. Continue through summer.
Most non-tropical trees should be outdoors by the end of April.
BEWARE: There always seems to be a late frost from April-May. Watch for frost advisories and protect your trees by bringing them into a garage, basement, or by using a cloth netting. All new growth is susceptible to frost damage.
May - Late Spring - 73/50
Start hardening up indoor tree growth by using an oscillating fan a few hours a day.
You should move tropicals outdoors now. Introduce tropicals to the sunlight gradually. Be careful of night time temperatures <45°F. You may also leave tropicals indoors year round, but most will benefit from the outdoors.
Most deciduous trees have the leaves out sometime in May.
Holding back fertilizer for pines can keep their needles shorter.
Perform air-layers on trees once their leaves are fully emerged.
Start fertilizing with a balanced 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 fertilizer for most trees.
Trees will be using more water now that they are actively growing.
Re-pot any later emerging species, and any that show signs of being pot bound – they won't make it through July and August if you don't.
Pinch or cut back long pine candles to encourage back budding and a more dense overall growth
June - Early Summer - 82/59
This is a good month to air layer trees.
After you remove dead flowers, Rhododendron and Azalea are ready for pruning.
Wiring stiff deciduous is easier now that sap is flowing. Foliage makes this task more difficult though.
Continue pruning deciduous and tropicals for shape and to force growth that is more compact.
All trees will be in full growth mode, so water usage is significantly increased.
White or 5-Needle Pines: Cut stronger/top candles first, then lower/weaker candles a few weeks later.
Black or 2-Needle Pines: Cut weak/lower candles first, then strong/top candles a few weeks later.
You may completely defoliate strong and healthy deciduous trees to produce smaller foliage and ramification. Do not wait any later than June, or the tree’s new growth may not harden up enough in time for winter. This technique should not be completed in successive years, as it is stressful on the tree. This technique is usually reserved for maples.
July - Mid Summer - 85/64
This is the hottest time of year, so most trees need water every day. Water in the morning, the evening, or both. Watering in the evening may increase the risk of fungus. Some trees’ roots will not take up water in the extreme heat. If your root ball remains wet in hot temperatures, do not re-water. You may want to repot this tree next season.
Remove old needles on pines. They should be discolored and useless now.
Creating Jin and Shari is easier in the summer due to sap flow. Removing bark from live branches is easiest when restyling and difficult from truly dead wood.
Protect trees with delicate foliage, from the sun, such as Japanese maple. This applies through the summer season.
Tropical trees should be in the peak of their growth. Hard pruning can occur now on tropicals.
Summer repotting should not be done, but if it is necessary, disturb roots as little as possible. Transplant these trees either into the ground or into a larger pot with more soil.
August - Late Summer - 84/62
Continue pruning, but watch for buds and think about next year's growth.
Use lime-sulfur on jin and deadwood in summer. The heat and sun helps it absorb into the wood, and the sunlight bleaches it quickly.
Most deciduous and pines have a semi-dormant period in the extreme heat of summer. Be cautious of watering.
August-September is the ideal time for repotting tropical trees.
You may start lowering the Nitrogen content of your fertilizer to slow foliar growth in preparation for fall and winter.
September - Early Autumn - 77/54
This is an ideal time to start root over rock plantings and other root development projects. The tree is starting to concentrate growth in the roots and use less energy on the foliage.
Lower the nitrogen content of your fertilizer this month. Switch to a 0-10-10 fertilizer. The lack of nitrogen slows foliar growth, which will force the branches to toughen up to deal with winter's wrath.
This is the second best time for repotting. Once the leaves turn color, the tree is dormant. You may transplant deciduous after this. This is better done in the beginning of the month.
This is a good time to collect wild trees.
Bring tropicals back indoors towards the end of the month, or when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F at night.
Spray your tropicals with pesticide before you bring them indoors. This may take multiple applications over a few weeks.
Watch out for fall pests. Squirrels are especially harmful, as they are digging and foraging for winter.
October - Mid Autumn - 65/43
Trees will be using much less water now that the foliage is going dormant. Do not water unless needed.
Try not to prune deciduous in the fall as it may force new growth that will not survive winter. Wait until the tree is fully dormant.
Prepare your winter storage area now, before winter sets in.
November - Late Autumn - 51/34
Stop fertilization for outdoors trees.
Only water when soil is nearly dry.
Clean up trees in preparation for winter.
December - Early Winter - 40/25
You may wire trees, as their lack of leaves makes it easier this time of year.
Move your less hardy and smaller trees into a protected area. This may be a cold frame, an unheated garage, a cool basement, or mulched near the side of a building.
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