Species Study - Crataegus aestivalis

[BobbyLane]

All I can say is that I saw the tree before digging it up and saw the roots when I got it out of the ground. It was definitely a trunk fuse of multiple trees for the Mayhaw I dug up.

Usually you see little indicators in the main trunk, as above...
on the subject of Cratagus here's two root cuttings that had entangled themselves together and then began growing closer in the grow bed, eventually forming one, will always be tall tale signs in the trunk if you know what to look for

 

[Cajunrider]

Usually you see little indicators in the main trunk, as above...
on the subject of Cratagus here's two root cuttings that had entangled themselves together and then began growing closer in the grow bed, eventually forming one, will always be tall tale signs in the trunk if you know what to look for
View attachment 448814

In this picture below, root 1 & 2 from the left were obviously from the main tree. On the back side there was root 3 from the same main trunk. On the right side, an obviously younger tree grew right into the nook between 2 & 3. That portion of the young tree was included in the main trunk. You can see the merge lines I marked in blue. Other roots do not have that merge line at all. The tell tale sign of which you wrote is right on the picture.

 

[BobbyLane]

ah ok, im not seeing it. In any case, you probably have to perform a ground layer at some point. I have a Hornbeam with roots like this that ill need to do a ground layer on eventually or ill have to discard it.

 

[Cajunrider]

ah ok, im not seeing it. In any case, you probably have to perform a ground layer at some point. I have a Hornbeam with roots like this that ill need to do a ground layer on eventually or ill have to discard it.

Can we make a NEW STYLE? I will call it the "Oil Platform style"

 

[BobbyLane]

Can we make a NEW STYLE? I will call it the "Oil Platform style"

or War of the Worlds? sure you can do whatever you like!

 

[Cajunrider]

Roots can be as big as 3/8” after 3 months from collection.

 

[Cajunrider]

or War of the Worlds? sure you can do whatever you like!

Yesterday I rescued a gac tree. The roots looked just like that.

 

[Cajunrider]

The following video for hawthorn from Mr Chen actually fits right in for Mayhaw.

It is interesting to note than he claimed it to be instant bonsai that only took roughly an hour to accomplish while mentioning during the video that the tree has been in pot for ten years and chopped 3 times! Was it truly instant bonsai? You tell me.

 

[Cajunrider]

Cuttings in water. Top is growing. Bumps on bottom but no roots yet.

 

[Kanorin]

I wonder if these would do ok where I am in zone 6. Looks like their native range goes up to Virginia, so maybe...

 

[Cajunrider]

I wonder if these would do ok where I am in zone 6. Looks like their native range goes up to Virginia, so maybe...

They are supposed to be hardy up to zone 6 so yeah. You may have to give them a little bit of protection.
BTW I am planning to move them to PA myself.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I would not discourage anybody from attempting anything . Visa visa growing trees outside native zones . As bonsai portability gives us a tremendous advantage . But I feel the criteria for zones is not given enough respect . . There are many factors that determine a zone people focus on max winter low temp . But max summer heat and length of both growing season and dormancy . Potential of early and or late frosts . After or before normal dormancy . Precipitation levels and others are considered . A little research can be very educational . And help with considerations some overlook . And can be very beneficial avoiding and reducing failure . A good example . Is here in zone 4 some zone 5 trees are easy with good winter protection . Others like Japanese maple are challenging . They want to break dormancy early and then need light and warmth late frosts are a bitch and or trying to keep them dormant like I said pots are a great advantage . Just consider more variables to improve success and diagnosis of failure

 

[Kanorin]

I would not discourage anybody from attempting anything . Visa visa growing trees outside native zones . As bonsai portability gives us a tremendous advantage . But I feel the criteria for zones is not given enough respect . . There are many factors that determine a zone people focus on max winter low temp . But max summer heat and length of both growing season and dormancy . Potential of early and or late frosts . After or before normal dormancy . Precipitation levels and others are considered . A little research can be very educational . And help with considerations some overlook . And can be very beneficial avoiding and reducing failure . A good example . Is here in zone 4 some zone 5 trees are easy with good winter protection . Others like Japanese maple are challenging . They want to break dormancy early and then need light and warmth late frosts are a bitch and or trying to keep them dormant like I said pots are a great advantage . Just consider more variables to improve success and diagnosis of failure

Agree. The zones are a starting point for thinking about which trees can live where, but definitely not close to the whole story. On the plus side, summers between here and LA are not very different. Most of the summer here is above 90 degrees and quite humid. The winter is definitely the more divergent season.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Agree. The zones are a starting point for thinking about which trees can live where, but definitely not close to the whole story. On the plus side, summers between here and LA are not very different. Most of the summer here is above 90 degrees and quite humid. The winter is definitely the more divergent season.

As you say seasons have a lot of similarity. But length is very different . Personally if I was moving to a more northern zone . Heavy fertilization . Even to the point of allowing coarse growth .the growing season before . And then first summer up north . To max tree health for there first northern winter storage . Considering a lot of trees with wide range of zones . Have a noticeable heat and cold tolerance . Based on seed source . Tree survival has to be the priority over design .

 

[Cajunrider]

Cuttings in water. Top is growing. Bumps on bottom but no roots yet.
View attachment 450233

That was a bust, they budded profusely, sending shoots up to 6” long but they did not root.

 

[Cajunrider]

1” hard wood cutting
View attachment 442494

2” hard wood cutting
View attachment 442496
View attachment 442495

90% of my hard wood cuttings died from lack of care. They need a little bit more than being stuck in soil and watered once a day. With a bit better care I think my success rate will be much much higher.

 

[HorseloverFat]

90% of my hard wood cuttings died from lack of care. They need a little bit more than being stuck in soil and watered once a day. With a bit better care I think my success rate will be much much higher.

Oof!

Sorry, friend... Things like this are 'blows' to the soul.

You'll get it!

 

[Cajunrider]

Oof!

Sorry, friend... Things like this are 'blows' to the soul.

You'll get it!

It's all good. All I wanted to know was whether they will take and I found out they will. I have plenty of Mayhaw and those are just cut off chunks being tested. I believe if I had put them in part shade and put them in better rooting soil and misted them on a timer, they would have all survived. Mayhaw has tremendous sugar reserve in the trunk and will put up shoots. If we give them a favorable soil for rooting and keep the shoots from drying out, they will easily strike.

I am not kidding about the sugar reserve, when I plant the collected Mayhaw, the ants and flies will converge at the sap bleeding spots to collect the sugar.

 

[Cajunrider]

I made a statement and a root decides to make a liar out of me by sprouting shoots in two days.
View attachment 444453

3 out of 4 root cuttings took and are growing well. The one that died was a straight 1.5” dia x 3” long just jabbed into ground. It never budded.

 

[HorseloverFat]

Whenever I encounter INLAND cratageus here . They are fencepost-style...

And the bluff ones are almost TOO big/multi-trunked to warrant pulling .. but my eyes are open.