Silvester (scott pine) need an advice

[bonsai-max]

Reduce to two healthy, properly spaced buds, with similar energy.

Ok, should I take out also the two needles or just the bud ?
Thank you

One note it is possible to cut back to one buds then too.

I don't understand, sorry my bad English

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Cut flush to the base of the bud.

My bad English!. Meant to say it it’s possible to cut back to inner growth if appropriate to the future style and the amount of growth back on the branch.

This will also push energy backwards to this area and also redistribute energy.


Best
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

My bad English!. Meant to say it it’s possible to cut back to inner growth if appropriate to the future style and the amount of growth back on the branch.

Ahhh ok , so I can cut also the useless small branch/buds to maintain the shape and promote back budding.
As you can see from the picture is not one branch with several buds but really a lot o new chaotic grow , and I am thinking to remove the useless ones, genly with scissors




Should I take the old needle on the strong parts or is better to keep them otherwise will weak more the plant ?
I am asking so many things because thanks to this forum finally the plant is slowly regaining strength and i don't want to do errors...

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I remove my "extra" buds with my thumb in winter.
I would keep the old needles for now, the plant needs them, otherwise it would have removed them already (or it will remove them automatically in autumn).

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Agree. In these cases it’s best to wait until the buds extend. Then remove the extras. Just cut to the base of the buds for now.

Remember, it’s best to keep more growth on to build strength when growing out to style. This may take a couple years.

In cases like this it’s best to include a couple images of the whole tree. This helps us guide the overall health and strength of the tree, rather than giving advice out of context,

Once the tree is obviously strong and robust, then it’s ready to push back to design.

Best
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

Remember, it’s best to keep more growth on to build strength when growing out to style. This may take a couple years.

I agree my only concern is that too much buds green on the top will weaken the bottom.

Agree. In these cases it’s best to wait until the buds extend. Then remove the extras. Just cut to the base of the buds for now.

Ok, so I will remove just the extra buds

In cases like this it’s best to include a couple images of the whole tree. This helps us guide the overall health and strength of the tree, rather than giving advice out of context,

Yes you have right, here are some pictures



This is the weak lowest branch

 

[bonsai-max]

In cases like this it’s best to include a couple images of the whole tree. This helps us guide the overall health and strength of the tree, rather than giving advice out of context,

Did you see the pictures

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

So sorry, had to get to back home to a larger computer screen.

From what can be seen, don’t see a need to push back at this time. The goal, if I recall correctly was to build strength. Looks like the tree is starting to do so, but still needs another year. Would check next June after candle balancing is complete. But thinking another year would do the tree a world of good.

A couple thoughts. Been pondering the concept of critical mass for trees. Nothing new, but in my terms it’s the point at which each bonsai develops healthy, robust, widespread growth through its canopy. Of course it all starts with a healthy, ramified root systems. Visually it a bit different for each species and each tree. One of the indicators is growth spreading sideways, another and perhaps more telling is backbudding to the third level.

When this happens it’s also time to rethink the original style before pushing back, to ensure its validity.

Just a thought.

Finally photos. When taking images for comparison it’s helpful to go back to see the original side views one took in a thread. Then pose the tree at the same pose and viewpoint for follow on shots. This makes comparisons much easier for both yourself and others.

Stay well,
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

So sorry, had to get to back home to a larger computer screen.

No sorry, thank you for your help

 

[bonsai-max]

The multiple budding cluster are continue to appear mostly on the top of the tree, thanks to your suggestions, is a good sign but is still too warm to make a selection. Crazy November here is still 18-20 C° during the day.
But are really a lot, I will have a lot of work to do to remove them.
This year goal is to push energy to the lower branch that are weaks.

 

[minkes]

I have similar buds formation on my Silvestris. Would you try to remove only buds or also attached needles to the bud? I found out some needles are very strongly attached to the bud.

 

[Glaucus]

My experience is that if you remove buds prematurely because you know you won't need them anyway, it will simply respond by producing new ones. So if you want only 1 or 2 candles next spring, it seems the best option is just to keep the buds, let the buds well and form candles, and then remove the unwanted candles at a certain timing. Unless of course your goal is to get many tiny buds/candles at the tip.

 

[bonsai-max]

My experience is that if you remove buds prematurely because you know you won't need them anyway, it will simply respond by producing new ones. So if you want only 1 or 2 candles next spring, it seems the best option is just to keep the buds, let the buds well and form candles, and then remove the unwanted candles at a certain timing. Unless of course your goal is to get many tiny buds/candles at the tip.

I have problem of weak lower branches, if I let open the cluster buds on the top I think they will drain all the energy from the botton.
Make sense or not ?
We are near, is also still warm to you ? Crazy autumn......

 

[bonsai-max]

And this season is starting again like the other one.
The candles are weak, I have no idea what I can do to improve the plant energy.
Last year I feed well the plant, no pruning, needle untouched, winter PK fertilization but again several bud but not strong....

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Don’t have any Scots in the yard, but the all rest of the pines just started to push two weeks ago, except the mugos which haven’t pushed at all.

Might wait a couple weeks before worrying.

JIC…are you also using solid fertilizer?

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

Don’t have any Scots in the yard, but the all rest of the pines just started to push two weeks ago, except the mugos which haven’t pushed at all.

That is the final part, in some days will open the new needle the candles will not elongate more, I don't know if maybe is a variety of Silvester that act in this way.
I have only this silvester around.
Last I have used solid fertilizer until half may, and after solid plus 20-20-20 liquid every 2 weeks, plus of course fulvic acid and kelp extract every 15 days, this year I was thinking to do the same regime.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Fertilizing can be a bit tricky.

If tree is giving off signs of weakness, might be best to use a solid fertilizer all year. The liquid fertilizers are giving the tree intermittent shots of nutrients which may be ok with trees that are strong.

(That said, there are a few certain nutritional regimes developed by hydro folks that are used on a bi monthly basis on bonsai)

The reason to dial back solid fertilizer in May/June is a double flush tree thing. Dialing back the fertilizer keeps the new forming candles shorter.

Single flush like Scots that are strong is opposite. No fertilizer until needles harden off. Then fertilize later. This keeps the candles shorter while giving consistent nutrition to new buds that are forming and growing.

It seems the opposite was being done?

In any case, for this weak tree would fertilize consistently all year.

Btw: Would suggest use NPK fertilizer vs PK on conifers all fall and winter. These trees do grow slowly during the winter and need the nitrogen.

Best
DSD sends

 

[Bonsella]

Move to a bigger pot without touching the roots just but a little tease

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Would concur on the above reply, using the same media… about 3/4 to 1” all around and a 1/2-1” deeper.

However thinking this would best be done before the candles push.

Just a thought.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bonsai-max]

I went this morning to the PO of the pine and his candle are definitely bigger than mine, the plant was the same scott pine, both was born from seeds of the same plant.
In the whole plant I have only one better bud the other are small.



I have two choices, repot or wait another year.
I am really in doubt, i have a pot rady, not nice 3cm larger and 3cm deeper....