Crazy Diamond
Omono
I would cut everything, the whorls are usseles and all the upper part has 0 taper or interest, Cut it gradually and keep the base and do a leader change with one of the bottom buds
Scots pine - height reduction
- Thread starter Diggumsmack2
- Start date
Diggumsmack2
Yamadori
Thank-you River's edge for your in depth opinion, definitely gave me some good ideas. I was kinda not sure what direction to go next on this pole of a tree.
The reason I collected this one is Scots Pine are not found natively in my direct area. I really like the Scots alot. This one was a descendant of trees planted by Connecticut DOT on a roadside. It was relatively easy to dig and was super healthy looking.
Thank-you Arnold for your input as well. I know this pole tree is nothing special, right now anyway.
The reason I collected this one is Scots Pine are not found natively in my direct area. I really like the Scots alot. This one was a descendant of trees planted by Connecticut DOT on a roadside. It was relatively easy to dig and was super healthy looking.
Thank-you Arnold for your input as well. I know this pole tree is nothing special, right now anyway.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Lots of potential, all pines grow in that fashion without training! It is young and lots of opportunity to train, bend and from into a beautiful bonsai over the years! The branches on the whorls are very useful for the next few years of training and also for potential primary branches in a larger design. The trunk is still thin enough to bend for movement with copper wire and proper technique. You will be surprised what even gentle movement will add to the line and interest of the trunk. Later as the base thickens it will improve even more.
Another major positive is the new shoots and backbends already in the lower portion for future use.
Pine_nut
Mame
How is this tree doing? Do you have any progress photos to share?
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
Old thread.
If it were mine I would cut it off just above the lowest set of branches.
Let it recover,wire the strongest up as the continuation of the trunk then through cutting shoots off in late summer to get the best back budding,grow branches out of those.
Diggumsmack2
Yamadori
So heeeeeeere's where I'm at.
I ended up topping it at the red line. In addition, after some tutelage from a member here, I added a dark ages torture device to give it some movement. I wanted something that was independent of anything around the tree and box, so I could move it and still be able to hold the bend. Otherwise just a stake driven into the ground next to the box would've sufficed. Not pretty but it's a work in progress.
My 2 cents...
If you want a decent tree (or a better tree) in the future, I would suggest you cut off the top at the yellow line. You have too much truck with nothing on it.
You want more taper too, and doing this will help. Branch marked 1 should be kept temporarily. Branch marked 2 would be the new leader.
Before cutting, it should also be possible to give a bit of movement to the part of the upper trunk (blue arrow) with some kind of heavy jack. (trust me it can take it) You can even remove some of the wood from that part to make it easier to bend.
After that you can wire up the new apex to suit. This way you will have more interesting material to work with in the future.
It will take about 3-4 years with one major operation per season and you will amazed at the difference.
If you want a decent tree (or a better tree) in the future, I would suggest you cut off the top at the yellow line. You have too much truck with nothing on it.
You want more taper too, and doing this will help. Branch marked 1 should be kept temporarily. Branch marked 2 would be the new leader.
Before cutting, it should also be possible to give a bit of movement to the part of the upper trunk (blue arrow) with some kind of heavy jack. (trust me it can take it) You can even remove some of the wood from that part to make it easier to bend.
After that you can wire up the new apex to suit. This way you will have more interesting material to work with in the future.
It will take about 3-4 years with one major operation per season and you will amazed at the difference.
Attachments
Diggumsmack2
Yamadori
Thanks mike, I appreciate any inputs. This honestly is my first time working on a Scott's Pine. More than anything I was just trying to not remove too much material at one time and kill the tree. Ultimately I did want it shorter.
The tree has some nice back budding at the base that in the future I hope to work with
The tree has some nice back budding at the base that in the future I hope to work with
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
I would recommend removing the branches above the buds at the base, starting from the bottom. This way you can reduce the sacrifice incrementally while letting more light to your future tree.
I like how bending the whole top has induced some movement in the base, but maybe you can do more? This is beyond my experience, but what if you could drill a hole in the top and insert a long dowel and try to leverage some twist into the base in stages. It may be a long shot but just a thought that crossed my mind.
I like how bending the whole top has induced some movement in the base, but maybe you can do more? This is beyond my experience, but what if you could drill a hole in the top and insert a long dowel and try to leverage some twist into the base in stages. It may be a long shot but just a thought that crossed my mind.
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
I’ve collected scots seeds, but never managed to get any to germinate. I think you did well with material selection given all those buds down low to choose from.
Kadebe
Chumono
For the wiring technique, I suggest you take a look at the following videos... it will help you a lot
No problem. Just thought I'd add that I drew the on the jack the wrong side. oops....
