Are you ruminating about how to create a swampy aesthetic or how to achieve a very swampy soilmass?I am thinking about doing mine in a swamp settings. Where can I find bonsai pot without drain hole of the size big enough for a forest?
Both.Are you ruminating about how to create a swampy aesthetic or how to achieve a very swampy soilmass?
I think the swampy aesthetic can be achieved still with some drainage and avoiding the very anaerobic conditions that you might get with a plugged up pot. Obviously, bald cypress can tolerate standing water more so than most trees, but it still might not be ideal.
How about taking the pot and sitting it in a large tray of water (especially for the summer months)? You can dump and exchange the water every 3-4 days to keep it a bit more oxygen-rich and mosquito-poor.
Or just use a pot with drainage and a much finer soil particle (1/20" - 1/12" or so) and think about some swampy understory plants to include?
I wasn’t clear about the base measurement. I am taking about the root base flare shown above the ground. The trunk right above it should be 2 to 2.5”. I think a trunk taper from 2 to 2.5 over 18” is doable and appropriate.18" high with 4-5" bases sounds out of proportion. With the top 3 or 4 inches being a tiny apex, that sounds like an almost impossible amount of taper in such a short distance. From 2" in diameter, and growing them with a taper to 6" in diameter while in the forest could take 15-20 years . You are going to need a huge pot to make that forest look right. If you find one, better put it where you're NEVER going to move it. LOL!
Even if you can't draw worth snot, make a basic scale model of what you're aiming for. It might keep you from making a 5-10 year mistake. The trees you have could take 4 or more years to get to 6" in diameter even planted in the ground. Crowded in a pot would slow that down tremendously.
Not trying to be a wet blanket. Just trying to illustrate some potential problems.
This is not really what I want my BC forest to look like. My inner cajun screams "Yankee's idea of a swamp". No disrespect to Ryan. He's a master bonsai person and the trees in that pot were amazing. Yet when I look at this I don't feel bald cypress swamp. I feel a swamp in a DC comic universe or something.To give you an idea of a BC forest. Not all trees should be the same size, it would be good if you can slow down some of them once you get an initial flare in the base. The pick one that you can let lose and let it grow as much as possible to be your main trunk.
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Those mica pots are nice. I will consider them for other forest project for sure.Wigerts have a big selection on big size mica pots.
You are right about the buttresses and knees. The first picture I posted had tons and tons of knees yet the second picture practically has none. I don't know if mine will do anything but I am going to collects more seeds from a tree that has tons of knees and grow some more to see if that make any difference.OK, that sounds more doable......... BUT...... Flair, at least in my area, seems to be a hit or miss thing. It might even be genetic. In my experience, the tree will give you flair and buttressing if IT wants to, not in response to any specific technique. Hardly any of our swamps look like the one you pictured. I think it's similar to the growth of cypress knees. Not many knees in your picture. I've had 20+ cypress trees in pots in the last 6 years, as has one of my friends. Out of those 40 trees, only one of mine has grown a knee.
By the way, Neil's forest is killer. My only remark is the tree on the far right is the only one that looks like our local trees.
That sounds like it will work. I'd think the "typical" arrangement of primary tall and thicker trees in the center (ish) with gradually shorter and smaller fanning out to the sides will work to emphasize the forest/swamp.Question for Bonsainutters @Mellow Mullet @Joe Dupre' @rockm @Sekibonsai @BillsBayou et. al.
For my BC forest, I imagine 6 or 7 trees about 18" in height max with the trunks diameter about 2-3" and the base around 4-5". Does that sound about right?
For them to reach the base size, I plan to grow them separately until they reach 2" diameter. Then I will chop them to 6" high and pot them as a forest. This will give me 3 years or so to develop the top and to get the roots to flare out and weave together into a forest base. Good enough plan?
Excellent advice. Thank you! I am going to put them together in the early summer next year. The trees I have in the grow flat sitting on top of muck in cement tubs filled with water are developing amazing roots spreaded out horizontally. I will give it about six month of growth then I'll put them together.That sounds like it will work. I'd think the "typical" arrangement of primary tall and thicker trees in the center (ish) with gradually shorter and smaller fanning out to the sides will work to emphasize the forest/swamp.
I lean towards planting forest trees together as soon as possible because it allows closer, tighter placements of trunks. That early placement allows branches to be developed where they're needed and increases the relationship and coherence between individual trees, particularly at the nebari. IF indivdiual trees are placed after extensive nebari development, those individual nebari can look odd and don't have any natural relationship to the tree next to it--like both were dropped together from outer space and not grown together in a swamp for 300 years...
If you don't have it, get Kato's Forest and Rock Planting book. It has dozens of diagrams on different tree arrangements. Although they might not translate exactly, they do give some perspective on why tree placements work...
Forest, Rock Planting & Ezo Spruce Bonsai by Saburo Kato
RARE OUT OF PRINT This exceptional classic is a wonderful museum quality bonsai treasure by the true master of forest rock plantings. Previously available only in Japanese, it stands as the definitive bonsai book on the subject and is a noble addition to the collection of top quality bonsai...stonelantern.com