Prunus Mume Propagation by Hardwood Cuttings During Early Winter - The Peter Adams Method

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Any suggestions on soil composition perhaps when they go outdoors in spring? Tnx in advance.

Use the same media blend you would use for apple, or maple bonsai. Adjust particle size to be appropriate for the pot size. Small pot, a fine particle. Larger pot, a more coarse blend.

Sieve your media to eliminate extremely fine and coarse particles.

 

[Nybonsai12]

I'm giving this another go after zero success last year. I took a bunch of cuttings of all different sizes about two weeks ago from a dawn variety I have. dipped in hormone, put cut ends into damp sphagnum moss and into the bag they go. no callous yet, buds swelling a bit. Anything i should be doing different?

This thread is interesting in that there is reference to planting out even if there is no callous? i'll keep mine in the fridge for 8 weeks and see where I'm at. i want this to work so bad!

 

[SeanS]

I'm giving this another go after zero success last year. I took a bunch of cuttings of all different sizes about two weeks ago from a dawn variety I have. dipped in hormone, put cut ends into damp sphagnum moss and into the bag they go. no callous yet, buds swelling a bit. Anything i should be doing different?

This thread is interesting in that there is reference to planting out even if there is no callous? i'll keep mine in the fridge for 8 weeks and see where I'm at. i want this to work so bad!

I had 2 out of about 30 winter cuttings root, but both have seen their swelling buds now dry up in recent weeks. They still have the leaves I left on them though and roots are still looking healthy.

I had better luck with semi-hardwood spring cuttings with about 6 out of 20 rooted.

Both the winter and spring cuttings are still in my make-shift propagation box/greenhouse so time will tell once I start moving them out.

I’m in the southern hemisphere BTW.

The single hardwood winter cutting that survived from last season is developing nicely and should be able to go into a mame pot next spring.

 

[R3x]

This year I was working with misting rooter trying semi-hardwood cuttings of varieties: Beni Chidori and Omoi No Mama. Took several months (from May or June till end of September) but Beni Chidori had a great ratio of rooted cuttings - like 80%. Omoi No Mama was not so successful - about 30-40% rooted. I replanted them into common soil and left outside for winter.

My attempts at winter rooting cuttings always failed with mold unfortunately... So mostly gave up on this method.

 

[River's Edge]

I'm giving this another go after zero success last year. I took a bunch of cuttings of all different sizes about two weeks ago from a dawn variety I have. dipped in hormone, put cut ends into damp sphagnum moss and into the bag they go. no callous yet, buds swelling a bit. Anything i should be doing different?

This thread is interesting in that there is reference to planting out even if there is no callous? i'll keep mine in the fridge for 8 weeks and see where I'm at. i want this to work so bad!

There is an advantage to leave the cuttings in the fridge until callus develops. higher success if callus develops before the cutting is placed in warmer temperatures. The timing varies for location of course but the highest success rate for me is when I do the cuttings as soon as the leaves begin to drop.
The reason for the advantage is you wish to slow the new leaf bud formation and opening until callus is formed and new root formation beginning! This shortens the length of time the cutting needs to rely on reserves within the cutting! Keeping the cutting in cooler temperatures slows the process.

 

[B-Trees]

I'm trying hardwood cuttings for the 2nd year, zero success last year. I have a few street trees (which I'm propagating seeds from) and one 'Hokkai Bungo' from Brent as sources. HB airlayer did not work last year, I'm gonna try thread grafting some of those branches off onto the seed-grown stock after the blooms are done in mid January. Will update

 

[bwaynef]

Leafing out means very little. It’s better than not, certainly. I’m particularly encouraged by the secondary push of growth that’s happening now.

(My Sango Kaku cuttings beside them aren’t very happy right now.)

 

[River's Edge]

Leafing out means very little. It’s better than not, certainly. I’m particularly encouraged by the secondary push of growth that’s happening now.

(My Sango Kaku cuttings beside them aren’t very happy right now.)

Promising start, keep the humidity up. foliar spray can give them an edge. They do not process too much that way but it can supplement the scion reserves present while developing roots. Well done.

 

[River's Edge]

This time of year is awesome. it is neat to see the hardwood cuttings take off with new growth after the blossoms fade! This is one of the 3 yr cuttings beginning to sprout for this years growth. The new growth can attract all sorts of sucking insects so I have already added a preventative dose of systemic granules to the Prunus Mume under development. This 0n is a "Kobai"

 

[Greendan]

Here are my 2 cuttings on 2nd year cut off tree dipped in clonex in a bed of coco perlite compost

 

[River's Edge]

Here are my 2 cuttings on 2nd year cut off tree dipped in clonex in a bed of coco perlite compost

Assuming you mean they are on their second year as cuttings. Not sure of the wording. This is a good time to wire for movement if desired. Gets very difficult as the material ages. Use larger gauge aluminum for best results and less pressure on the bends. I make gentle bends with more of a 65 degree wrap for this material. Just a suggestion. Growth pattern seems strong enough at this point.

 

[River's Edge]

This spring I experimented with creating cuttings after new leaves were opening but before they hardened off! Some things I kept the same.
Size of the cuttings in diameter and length.
Use of Clonex on the bottom cut.
Sealing the top of the cutting.

Key components I changed and why!
The timing on the premise that if the new leaves were already forming it would mean earlier contribution from the leaves for rooting and less drain on the reserves in the cutting itself. The initial reserves coming from the mother plant before the cuttings were created.
soil mix addition of Kanuma to the akadama and pumice. ( all small particle ) ( increase the acidity and moisture retention of the soil mix.)
Shredded spaghnum on top of the soil surface. ( increase moisture retention.)
Placed the cuttings deeper in the soil mix ( roughly 3 inch depth ) to maintain more even moisture isurrounding the base of the cutting.
The results of this small experiment were that fifteen of the sixteen cuttings took. The sixteenth was still looking good and nice callus had formed, I suspect it would have rooted if I had waited longer, but I did not put it back in the Anderson flat. I was happy enough with the other results.

Limitations, small sample, one time with a single cultivar " Kobai "
I also tried a separate experimental group later after the new leaves had hardened off and they are not doing so well but may still have some successful outcomes.

These experiments are in addition to my usual hardwood cutting process that I am still using.
I placed the pictures in the what did you do today thread.

 

[Pitoon]

This spring I experimented with creating cuttings after new leaves were opening but before they hardened off! Some things I kept the same.
Size of the cuttings in diameter and length.
Use of Clonex on the bottom cut.
Sealing the top of the cutting.

Key components I changed and why!
The timing on the premise that if the new leaves were already forming it would mean earlier contribution from the leaves for rooting and less drain on the reserves in the cutting itself. The initial reserves coming from the mother plant before the cuttings were created.
soil mix addition of Kanuma to the akadama and pumice. ( all small particle ) ( increase the acidity and moisture retention of the soil mix.)
Shredded spaghnum on top of the soil surface. ( increase moisture retention.)
Placed the cuttings deeper in the soil mix ( roughly 3 inch depth ) to maintain more even moisture isurrounding the base of the cutting.
The results of this small experiment were that fifteen of the sixteen cuttings took. The sixteenth was still looking good and nice callus had formed, I suspect it would have rooted if I had waited longer, but I did not put it back in the Anderson flat. I was happy enough with the other results.

Limitations, small sample, one time with a single cultivar " Kobai "
I also tried a separate experimental group later after the new leaves had hardened off and they are not doing so well but may still have some successful outcomes.

These experiments are in addition to my usual hardwood cutting process that I am still using.
I placed the pictures in the what did you do today thread.

Nice results Frank. From my experience Kobai is a good cultivar to take cuttings from.

 

[River's Edge]

Nice results Frank. From my experience Kobai is a good cultivar to take cuttings from.

I agree, stronger more vigorous cultivar.. Very evident in the annual growth rate and speed with which the trunk thickens compared to some other cultivars. The matsubara red is one of the weaker cultivars in my experience. Slow grower and very difficult to root from cuttings or air layer in my experience.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

This spring I experimented with creating cuttings after new leaves were opening but before they hardened off! Some things I kept the same.
Size of the cuttings in diameter and length.
Use of Clonex on the bottom cut.
Sealing the top of the cutting.

Key components I changed and why!
The timing on the premise that if the new leaves were already forming it would mean earlier contribution from the leaves for rooting and less drain on the reserves in the cutting itself. The initial reserves coming from the mother plant before the cuttings were created.
soil mix addition of Kanuma to the akadama and pumice. ( all small particle ) ( increase the acidity and moisture retention of the soil mix.)
Shredded spaghnum on top of the soil surface. ( increase moisture retention.)
Placed the cuttings deeper in the soil mix ( roughly 3 inch depth ) to maintain more even moisture isurrounding the base of the cutting.
The results of this small experiment were that fifteen of the sixteen cuttings took. The sixteenth was still looking good and nice callus had formed, I suspect it would have rooted if I had waited longer, but I did not put it back in the Anderson flat. I was happy enough with the other results.

Limitations, small sample, one time with a single cultivar " Kobai "
I also tried a separate experimental group later after the new leaves had hardened off and they are not doing so well but may still have some successful outcomes.

These experiments are in addition to my usual hardwood cutting process that I am still using.
I placed the pictures in the what did you do today thread.

Your success will increase if you do them later in the season - as or after leaves harden. I do them about 2-4 weeks after I do my Acer p. here near Montreal. Acer get done around May 15-21, whereas Prunus mume (depending on the cultivar) get done around June 7-15.

I use the attached rooting hormone at a rate of 5ml per 250ml of water. I cut my branches from the parent plant in the evening. I cut lengths of 3 internodes. I put the cuttings upright into the hormone solution overnight. In the morning, I re-cut my cuttings at an angle (I do ,multiple sides to expose the maximum amount of cambium) and I plant the cuttings with 1 internode (no leaf) buried, and 2 internodes exposed. For cultivars with large leaves, I cut the leaves in half.

I had 9 failures out of 240 yabai cutings, and successfully rooted over 30 Ume cultivars with a success rate above 75% for those that worked. About 12 cultivars simply did not root from cuttings at all (0% success rate). I've been doing this for a few years, it works. The fact that none of my cultivars rooted at low rates (e.g. 10%, 15%, 25%) is to me an indication that the timing and procedure works well. In other words, it isn't 'random' success; they either work well or not at all, and when they don't work at all it can be attributed to cultivar.

The conversation about whether/which Ume cultivars we need on their own roots is complicated but, putting that conversation aside, if your goal is to propagate Ume from cuttings this will be your highest success rate. I know @Pitoon loves when I say this, but I've been to Japan specifically to visit the top Ume growers (fruit farms, ornamental, and bonsai), there is a clear consensus. It cost me thousands of dollars to get this information. You might read about hardwood cuttings or cuttings at others times of the year in books from 20-30 years ago. But I'm sharing with you for free how it's done today, by the best of the best in the industry.

I personally do some additional things that I did not see done in Japan. None of this of is obligatory, but it is my current practice, with which I am seeing success at rates higher than ever before:

50% shadecloth under full sun exposure (morning to sundown)
Substrate is about 25% kanuma (I do this for maples and many other species. I've done parallel studies using Acer palmatum and Prunus mume, and it undeniably helps).
Bottom heat 26-28C
Air conditioner to maintain 16-18C air temp
Fog (not mist) maintain 100% humdity

I agree, stronger more vigorous cultivar.. Very evident in the annual growth rate and speed with which the trunk thickens compared to some other cultivars. The matsubara red is one of the weaker cultivars in my experience. Slow grower and very difficult to root from cuttings or air layer in my experience.

Few notes:
I would not use our visual assessment of the appearance of 'vigour' as related in any way to cutting success rates. In some cases (not all) I have had better success rates with slow growing cultivars, very thin 'weak-looking' branches, and weeping cultivars than I have had with cultivars that appeared very strong growing. The situation is the same with Japanese Maples: there are cultivars that are incredibly vigorous when grafted on rootstock, but that do very poorly on their own roots and root very poorly from cuttings, whereas other cultivars that are slower growing in fact propagate very well from cuttings.

I rooted 55 out of 72 Matsubara red cuttings this year. (The ones that I did last year are doing well on their own roots.)

 

[Pitoon]

Your success will increase if you do them later in the season - as or after leaves harden. I do them about 2-4 weeks after I do my Acer p. here near Montreal. Acer get done around May 15-21, whereas Prunus mume (depending on the cultivar) get done around June 7-15.

I use the attached rooting hormone at a rate of 5ml per 250ml of water. I cut my branches from the parent plant in the evening. I cut lengths of 3 internodes. I put the cuttings upright into the hormone solution overnight. In the morning, I re-cut my cuttings at an angle (I do ,multiple sides to expose the maximum amount of cambium) and I plant the cuttings with 1 internode (no leaf) buried, and 2 internodes exposed. For cultivars with large leaves, I cut the leaves in half.

I had 9 failures out of 240 yabai cutings, and successfully rooted over 30 Ume cultivars with a success rate above 75% for those that worked. About 12 cultivars simply did not root from cuttings at all (0% success rate). I've been doing this for a few years, it works. The fact that none of my cultivars rooted at low rates (e.g. 10%, 15%, 25%) is to me an indication that the timing and procedure works well. In other words, it isn't 'random' success; they either work well or not at all, and when they don't work at all it can be attributed to cultivar.

The conversation about whether/which Ume cultivars we need on their own roots is complicated but, putting that conversation aside, if your goal is to propagate Ume from cuttings this will be your highest success rate. I know @Pitoon loves when I say this, but I've been to Japan specifically to visit the top Ume growers (fruit farms, ornamental, and bonsai), there is a clear consensus. It cost me thousands of dollars to get this information. You might read about hardwood cuttings or cuttings at others times of the year in books from 20-30 years ago. But I'm sharing with you for free how it's done today, by the best of the best in the industry.

I personally do some additional things that I did not see done in Japan. None of this of is obligatory, but it is my current practice, with which I am seeing success at rates higher than ever before:

50% shadecloth under full sun exposure (morning to sundown)
Substrate is about 25% kanuma (I do this for maples and many other species. I've done parallel studies using Acer palmatum and Prunus mume, and it undeniably helps).
Bottom heat 26-28C
Air conditioner to maintain 16-18C air temp
Fog (not mist) maintain 100% humdity



Few notes:
I would not use our visual assessment of the appearance of 'vigour' as related in any way to cutting success rates. In some cases (not all) I have had better success rates with slow growing cultivars, very thin 'weak-looking' branches, and weeping cultivars than I have had with cultivars that appeared very strong growing. The situation is the same with Japanese Maples: there are cultivars that are incredibly vigorous when grafted on rootstock, but that do very poorly on their own roots and root very poorly from cuttings, whereas other cultivars that are slower growing in fact propagate very well from cuttings.

I rooted 55 out of 72 Matsubara red cuttings this year. (The ones that I did last year are doing well on their own roots.)

No time to argue today, got to much on my plate and it's hot.

 

[Paradox]

Anyone have any idea how taking cuttings would work with the Peggy Clarke cultivar?

With the prices Brent is now having to charge for his cuttings, I decided to buy a larger more mature mume from a landscape nursery that grows them.
It wasnt much more than what he is charging for cuttings so I figured it was worth a shot.
Its 4 feet tall with a bunch of branches at the top. It came bare rooted. I put it into a pot with kanuma and it leafed out and is growing now

I would like to try and take some cuttings and see how I do with them and probably eventually air layer the tree I have.

 

[River's Edge]

Anyone have any idea how taking cuttings would work with the Peggy Clarke cultivar?

With the prices Brent is now having to charge for his cuttings, I decided to buy a larger more mature mume from a landscape nursery that grows them.
It wasnt much more than what he is charging for cuttings so I figured it was worth a shot.
Its 4 feet tall with a bunch of branches at the top. It came bare rooted. I put it into a pot with kanuma and it leafed out and is growing now

I would like to try and take some cuttings and see how I do with them and probably eventually air layer the tree I have.

Great idea!
The first step I would take is to bring the tree into tip top health condition before attempting any cuttings.
I would decide on the best approach after assessing the material and its condition. Keep in mind that older material is usually more difficult to air layer and also to strike cuttings.
The second step would be to gain some understanding of the " cultivars" development. Which strain was used and what were the processes typically used with that strain.

I think it is important to choose a method that works for your resources and infrastructure. Some of the " older traditional methods work fine with limited resources" . Although more modern equipment, processes and infrastructure can improve percentage of success so far it has not led to more realistic pricing or availability. The enormous costs and labour involved are often used to justify very high prices. One would think that if the success rate were so high the material would be readily available and inexpensive to obtain. Perhaps in the future.

In the meantime we can help others to slowly build stock and provide a better foundation for future bonsai enthusiasts.

 

[Paradox]

Thanks @River's Edge
I plan to let it grow a year before doing anything. Saw the posts in this thread so thought I'd ask.

From talking to Brent the last few years, he had to raise his prices because of the difficulties he was having getting cuttings to survive. He had a couple of years of almost complete failure of his crop.

This is a guy that knows his stuff too but he admits he is trying to propagate these in a climate that is at the warmer/dryer end of the spectrum for them. I understand why he felt he needed to increase prices and I'm not blaming him at all. I just couldn't justify buying at the prices he now has to charge to make it profitable for him.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks @River's Edge
I plan to let it grow a year before doing anything. Saw the posts in this thread so thought I'd ask.

From talking to Brent the last few years, he had to raise his prices because of the difficulties he was having getting cuttings to survive. He had a couple of years of almost complete failure of his crop.

This is a guy that knows his stuff too but he admits he is trying to propagate these in a climate that is at the warmer/dryer end of the spectrum for them. I understand why he felt he needed to increase prices and I'm not blaming him at all. I just couldn't justify buying at the prices he now has to charge to make it profitable for him.

Agreed, Brent is very thoughtful and careful with his approach. His climate makes it very difficult. He had much more success in his previous location with a more advanced propagation setup than he currently has.. I am not familiar with his current pricing, it has always been fair in the past. I was reflecting on current pricing and availability in general.
Brent has contributed a great deal to the hobby and is very generous with assisting others to advance their skills and collections.