If you are referring to flower buds, then they will be removed as part of the propagation process, not allowed to take energy from the cutting. In your climate zone, I would advise waiting a bit for more dormancy. The plants appear to still have quite a few leaves.
Good to know I’m not alone on this. You would think the plant would need some freeze hours before trying to exit dormancy
Is this done before or after placing the cutting in the fridge?
It is done as they progress enough to remove them without damaging the leaf bud that will emerge from the same area. This may be before cold storage or during or after. I check the cuttings periodically to maintain healthier conditions even during storage such as changing towels or spraying with the rinse mix to maintain humidity and exercise some fungal control. I let them get started and remove them with tweezers or pinch with my fingers. Rock back gently and pull forward in the direction they emerge to prevent damaging the are where the leaf buds will form and emerge.
All my mumes have swollen buds. They do not reduce back as far as I can tell.
Hm, so would you suggest extra protection for the winter?
I think you may be a bit confused on this point. This is the normal time of year for buds to begin swelling in some climates. The flower buds can be very evident at this time of year. Once they begin swelling they do not reduce in size until the flower is removed or spent. Then the leaf bud develops later in the year for spring arrival.
(Guess I have some more work to do)
If I might make a suggestion. redo the lower cuts, make them within 1/4 inch of the lowest bud on the cutting. Just below that bud. Also make the cuts sharp and clean straight across, then use your rooting hormone. Do not remove the lower bud, Just rub off the outside petals if it has begun to flower. If you have removed it that will just increase the level of root extrusion to a higher point. It works best if the cutting calluses just below the bud site.Well I finally did it. Wish me luck
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I just realized I forgot to remove the flower buds
The research seems to indicate that the finer droplets are beneficial if that is a variable creating a problem for propagating the species. The choice will be dependant on the ventilation system designed to go along with the humidity control.
in the colanders was excellent for one year of growth interrupted. Also the new buds, leaves and flowers are pushing early so all signs are a go for a good growing year. Here are a couple of photos to illustrate. Sorry about the focus on the roots but the radial spread and amount is evident. A simple shot of the flower and a group shot of transplants. They will be nicely settled with lots of growth by fall Open House.
1 year for sure, 2/3 might be possible but 1 year is certainly best. From my personal experience, the best branches to select are: pencil thickness maybe slightly thicker, apical branches. It is imperative that the rooting end of the cuttings actually make contact with the substrate you're storing them in.
It also helps if the cuttings are started in a bit larger container so they can remain without transplanting for a longer period. This allows for greater root development and differentiation before being disturbed.
Good point, this year I planted maybe 50 in a tray and it was a catastrophe separating them. If probably plant them straight unto 4" pots personally. I did 50/50 peat perlite, what did you use?
I am old school, I use the components they will be in for most of their development in the first 10 years. Mix of Akadama and pumice. I do adapt grain size for stage of development to ensure optimum moisture retention for the stage. So smaller grain size in the beginning, larger as the plants mature and become much larger. Typically I prefer to use fine in the centre for the cutting and small surrounding the area. I use the method of filling the pot around a small pipe and then filling the pipe with fine as settling in the cutting. The pipe is then withdrawn slowly allowing the fine to settle lower and top up the surface. This allows developing roots to move from finer substrate to coarser substrate and develop further/thicker without disturbance.
![IMG_8976[1].JPG](https://www.bonsainut.com/data/attachments/455/455521-1d3da151c20354bcc4eabbd826d1b7bf.jpg?hash=HT2hUcIDVL "IMG_8976[1].JPG")
![IMG_8975[1].JPG](https://www.bonsainut.com/data/attachments/455/455522-a52b9139bf9b4f644156c15ad56edc3f.jpg?hash=pSuROb-bT2 "IMG_8975[1].JPG")
It is not necessary to pinch off the flower buds, and better not to risk damaging the area beneath the bud. I have never bothered with that step.
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