Progressive Maple Challenge - Max II

[MACH5]

I also like this tree very much. Good where it is now. With time, careful design planning and good technique it can become even better. Enjoy your new maple!

 

[JudyB]

I actually like the tree with the front that is in picture #4 of post 14, for the top of the tree. Could work on the nebari and do some root grafting, and have a very stately looking tree from this angle. Sure there are some branches that can go, but keep everything until you make the decision about what is the front.

 

[barrosinc]

Thanks guys! I pulled the tree out and it seems rootbound, so just waiting for a pot to work this out.
That space that has a grafted branch, I will need like 2 more branches I think ¿?... And the grafted one needs movement.

 

[JudyB]

I would wait until spring to do your repot...

 

[barrosinc]

I would wait until spring to do your repot...

yes, of course. I was just saying what I was going to do next.
Even though, it basically does not reach freazing for more than a night or two a year. I have repotted with my teacher in winter (july). But I will wait for sure don't want to risk it.

 

[JudyB]

I keep forgetting what a different climate you are in. But I would think it's better to wait until dormancy is over and buds are swelling, as that's when the energy leaves the roots and goes up into the canopy. How do you attain a dormancy period there Max?

 

[barrosinc]

We do get 0°C mostly every night, but does not really drop bellow that.
Timing has been working for me... I guess trees that really need a freezing during dormancy wouldn't work. But so far friends have pines, junipers, maples, plums, crabapples.... no problem.

each red dot is the average of the month of daily averages between max and min.

 

[fredman]

Man I like this tree. It just looks so proud and strong. Looking forward to see the progression. I'm sure you will keep us updated. Good luck and enjoy your journey with this beast.....

 

[barrosinc]

so, here is a video that might help understand where I am at right now... so many doubts.


Probably better off going to youtube and watching fullHD

Comments are very welcome! As honest as you can.

 

[MACH5]

Max could you take a pic at the 3:22 mark just right before 3:23? On the video I liked this as a front as well. The biggest problem is the upper third but I think this can be fixed. Don't worry too much about missing branches in the middle. That can be resolved with thread grafting.

 

[barrosinc]

Is it any of these??
(you can always go to the 360 and right click open image).



this is the one I have been looking at for front, maybe I got the angle wrong from where I was looking from:

This is the one BVF proposed to cut the back root.

 

[Giga]

I like this front too

 

[barrosinc]

Thanks GIGA!
Me too.

Now, with that front, I tried to show how that the first branch stick straight forward right there. And the back root.

 

[MACH5]

Yes it's this one.

 

[barrosinc]

Thanks guys! I will start wiring this weekend. Transplant later on in winter. Reopen wounds in spring. Summer, sit back and enjoy.

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

I selected this one for the better rootbase and some taper. Knuckle has to go, you can use current apex to close it. Then shop back and regrow apex to the front. It's always easy when its not your tree...

 

[barrosinc]

Knuckle has to go

Most definetly nex year this issue will be addressed.

Yes it's this one.

Yes, I want to use that one. I have seedlings ready to be grafted at the nebari, don't know if I should use the thread method or the place in a channel like Mach5 does.

They will be placed here:



My pot will be ready in like 2 weeks!

 

[MACH5]

I'd go for the approach (channel) graft in this case. It is trickier though to make it look natural.

 

[barrosinc]

How do I make them thicken up without the rest thickening???

 

[MACH5]

How do I make them thicken up without the rest thickening???

Not sure I follow.