Preferred Oaks

[ibakey]

As far as I’m aware, red oaks have leaves that most would consider too big for bonsai. English oak would be perfect for bonsai if it wasn’t so slow growing and finicky about root work. I‘d never say never though because an old, lone sentinel type English oak is still the unicorn for me.

I‘m putting my hand up for turkey oak, Quercus Cerris. Very similar characteristics to English oak, but seems to be a little more suited to the upheaval of root work. I have a 100% record of collected turkey oaks and only around 20% for English oaks with the same treatment. Also grows a fair bit faster as well it seems.

I’m looking for good specimens of turkey oak but so far nothing turns up. It’s looks pretty good! But understand that it’s an invasive species here. I wonder if english oak grafted on to turkey oak roots would make English oak grow faster.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Very nice. Although over here, I will only have the choice of quercus robur (English oak) vs quercus rubra ( American red oak). It’s excellent to hear that the red oak have equally rugged barks. Now I’m on the fence, I was thinking of getting the English oak for the history of the tree, but now I’m not too sure.

I think you're in a climate that is not as rough in winter as I am. The depth of cold and length of winter makes a difference. I love English Oak too, and have a forest that beats me up every year.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Has anyone mentioned Cork Oak, or is that too Mediterranean?

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Has anyone mentioned Cork Oak, or is that too Mediterranean?

The OP, @W3rk is from Maryland, too far north to bring up cork oak, Quercus suber. It is excellent, probably the best oak for bonsai if you have a Mediterranean climate. Difficult to winter in zone 5.

@ibakey - you are in France, I would recommend using Quercus robur over Q rubra. Go native for better climate acclimation.

Key for reducing leaf size is ramification. You need 3 or more levels of branches for leaf size to come down. But oak, right now I have giant leaves, over 12 inches, but I only have one level of branches, I fully expect leaves under 2 inches, once my branches are 4 levels of ramifications.

 

[Tieball]

Very nice. Although over here, I will only have the choice of quercus robur (English oak) vs quercus rubra ( American red oak). It’s excellent to hear that the red oak have equally rugged barks. Now I’m on the fence, I was thinking of getting the English oak for the history of the tree, but now I’m not too sure.

I would go forward with an English Oak. It’s an excellent tree.

 

[LittleDingus]

The OP, @W3rk is from Maryland, too far north to bring up cork oak, Quercus suber. It is excellent, probably the best oak for bonsai if you have a Mediterranean climate. Difficult to winter in zone 5.

@ibakey - you are in France, I would recommend using Quercus robur over Q rubra. Go native for better climate acclimation.

Key for reducing leaf size is ramification. You need 3 or more levels of branches for leaf size to come down. But oak, right now I have giant leaves, over 12 inches, but I only have one level of branches, I fully expect leaves under 2 inches, once my branches are 4 levels of ramifications.

I winter my suber either indoors or in the garage. They do well in either location...even with the reduced light. My indoor ones have been warm enough (65F) to flush during the winter. Those leaves tend to be huge due to the lesser light. The garage kept trees seem to go dormant (~40F-50F) and do not flush.

The garage wintered ones do drop some leaves and do have so twigs die back. Not a problem when growing out. I can see it being annoying during development.

My experience anyway...yours may vary.

As far as ramification reducing leaf size? Well, certainly for swamp oak, ramification could not hurt!



This is a sample leaf off a nursery purchased tree that I trunk chopped this spring. The tree sprouted several new buds...two of them have grown to almost 6' so far. All the leaves on those two branches are about this big! I've got many years yet before I get to a 4th level of ramification But yes, be aware that oaks can have very large leaves until they ramify!

 

[ibakey]

The OP, @W3rk is from Maryland, too far north to bring up cork oak, Quercus suber. It is excellent, probably the best oak for bonsai if you have a Mediterranean climate. Difficult to winter in zone 5.

@ibakey - you are in France, I would recommend using Quercus robur over Q rubra. Go native for better climate acclimation.

Key for reducing leaf size is ramification. You need 3 or more levels of branches for leaf size to come down. But oak, right now I have giant leaves, over 12 inches, but I only have one level of branches, I fully expect leaves under 2 inches, once my branches are 4 levels of ramifications.

Hmm, point taken on using natives. Alright, will let you guys know when the english oak is in. ! Can't wait to start on my own sleep hollow.

 

[ibakey]

I winter my suber either indoors or in the garage. They do well in either location...even with the reduced light. My indoor ones have been warm enough (65F) to flush during the winter. Those leaves tend to be huge due to the lesser light. The garage kept trees seem to go dormant (~40F-50F) and do not flush.

The garage wintered ones do drop some leaves and do have so twigs die back. Not a problem when growing out. I can see it being annoying during development.

My experience anyway...yours may vary.

As far as ramification reducing leaf size? Well, certainly for swamp oak, ramification could not hurt!

View attachment 383262

This is a sample leaf off a nursery purchased tree that I trunk chopped this spring. The tree sprouted several new buds...two of them have grown to almost 6' so far. All the leaves on those two branches are about this big! I've got many years yet before I get to a 4th level of ramification But yes, be aware that oaks can have very large leaves until they ramify!

My god. that leaf is just massive. seems surreal that it can reduce its size from that large to what we usually see.

 

[Forsoothe!]

A lot can be accomplished over time. Key word is time. There is no reason to even begin the process until the wood gets close to what you want.