Pottery beginnings

Looking great!

I have little warping problems anymore... Spending a year just digging clay, experimenting with sourcing your own tempers, building a crappy kiln..... basically failing for a year straight taught me to always be conscious of gravity.. and particulate alignment..

I have problems with other stuff, though!

🤣
 
I am convinced that an electric kiln without an exhaust, and most with, do not have the capability of firing an Iron Rich Rectangle pot without warping.

There is simply not enough oxygen to burn out impurities that, when iron starts reducing naturally around cone4, will cause areas of denser impurity that reduce more, leaving the pot with an uneven melt all around, which one could imagine, causes warping of all sorts, with no way to combat it except to fire slower with more oxygen.
My kiln is not currently vented and I have to say that though I use a lot of iron rich clays and oxides, warping is not a big concern with me.
I do fire very slowly.
 
As do I... I feel with my kiln and burner set-up.. I maybe COULD hit cone 6 in like 6-8 hours... I CHOOSE to go 10-12... stalling as best i can early around that 900-1200 degree mark... sloooooow.
Sounds like you've got that down pretty well.
 
Looking great!

I have little warping problems anymore... Spending a year just digging clay, experimenting with sourcing your own tempers, building a crappy kiln..... basically failing for a year straight taught me to always be conscious of gravity.. and particulate alignment..

I have problems with other stuff, though!

🤣
That's where I'm at currently.
I focused much more on clay prep this time round. I think it already shows, now to hope they fire ok!
 
My kiln is not currently vented and I have to say that though I use a lot of iron rich clays and oxides, warping is not a big concern with me.
I do fire very slowly.
That's great to hear. As I've only 2 firings under my belt this is going to be a big area of focus for me over the coming months.
When you say very slowly, what kind of firing schedule do you use? If you don't mind me asking.
 
That's great to hear. As I've only 2 firings under my belt this is going to be a big area of focus for me over the coming months.
When you say very slowly, what kind of firing schedule do you use? If you don't mind me asking.

What type of controls do you have?

Programmer?

Sorce
 
That's great to hear. As I've only 2 firings under my belt this is going to be a big area of focus for me over the coming months.
When you say very slowly, what kind of firing schedule do you use? If you don't mind me asking.
What type of controls do you have?
My smaller kiln, the one that I have done all my final firing in, is manual Olympic with a kiln sitter. My large kiln that I have been using for bisque firing (to this point) is a very large Skutt that is fully auto.
In my bisque kiln I take about 14 hours for the bisque firing. However, I run the kiln up to 200 F for several hours the day before I do my bisque firing.
When I am ready for final firing, I use my oxides, glazes etc and run on low for about 4 - 5 hours, medium for 3 - 4 hours and then on high until done, this is usually 12-13 hours altogether.
I feel I can push the final firing a bit sometimes if I take extra care with the bisque firing, and the candling at or about 200 F the day before is something I have just gotten into the habit of to assure everything in the kiln has an even dryness. It may not be necessary, but it gives me a degree of comfort.
If I ever get to the point of having enough prepared to fire at one time I will use my large kiln more, but I kinda like firing the smaller batches and I am quite used to a manual kiln. So much so that I have never installed the brand new auto controller I have had for about 10 years. I am a bit of a Luddite.
 
What type of controls do you have?

Programmer?

Sorce
Yep I have a Stafford st215. Each program can have 32 segments so plenty of customisation available.

For my first firing I slowly up to 300 degrees c, then raised to final temp at around 150c an hour. All in at was about 10 hours to reach temp.
 
In my bisque kiln I take about 14 hours
Sounds like you go a good bit slower than I did. My bisque took no more than 9 hours. I just used the default bisque program on the controller.

I've no clue where to start with experimenting here.
 
How many thermocouples do you have?

I've no clue where to start with experimenting here.

There is some good understanding of this by explaining my single fire since it essentially combines the actions of a bisque and a glaze fire in one.
It ends up being 100F/hour for 20 hours, with a give or take -+20F/hour that gets me to 2200F, where my top is cone 10 and bottom cone 6.

Due to this temp differential, which should be learned in your kiln with cones on every shelf, it's impossible to go any faster because after going slow for water smoking, I gotta go slow through the dunt range of 473F, then, slow for quartz inversion 1000F, then slow for burnout 8 hours with a lot of oxygen to 1900F, then reduction makes it rise slow to finish, so at every turn to gain speed it's just like...eff it. And everything comes out perfect.

There is a Washington Street Studios video that goes over the melt, boil, and vapor times of different materials. All of which need to go slow through there overlapping times, which includes the times their different phases interact with each other.

So going slower than slow, always turns out a better product.

The reason I don't like 2 firings, is because you can't really make either faster, or it severely limits the materials you can use, because the clay body(bisque), and glaze in the glaze fire, both want to go slow AF to produce the strongest, most cohesive melt. So you end up basically using twice as much energy no matter what, or limiting your materials, or churning out meh if you don't limit materials.

Extremes...
A kiln with a 2 material porcelain only. (2 materials)
A kiln with 4 clay bodies and 10 glazes. (40 materials.)

I recently took that dark manganese body that "bloats at cone 6" to cone 8 and it came out fine.

It's no different than a pot of water overflowing if you boil to fast.

Sorce
 
How many thermocouples do you have?



There is some good understanding of this by explaining my single fire since it essentially combines the actions of a bisque and a glaze fire in one.
It ends up being 100F/hour for 20 hours, with a give or take -+20F/hour that gets me to 2200F, where my top is cone 10 and bottom cone 6.

Due to this temp differential, which should be learned in your kiln with cones on every shelf, it's impossible to go any faster because after going slow for water smoking, I gotta go slow through the dunt range of 473F, then, slow for quartz inversion 1000F, then slow for burnout 8 hours with a lot of oxygen to 1900F, then reduction makes it rise slow to finish, so at every turn to gain speed it's just like...eff it. And everything comes out perfect.

There is a Washington Street Studios video that goes over the melt, boil, and vapor times of different materials. All of which need to go slow through there overlapping times, which includes the times their different phases interact with each other.

So going slower than slow, always turns out a better product.

The reason I don't like 2 firings, is because you can't really make either faster, or it severely limits the materials you can use, because the clay body(bisque), and glaze in the glaze fire, both want to go slow AF to produce the strongest, most cohesive melt. So you end up basically using twice as much energy no matter what, or limiting your materials, or churning out meh if you don't limit materials.

Extremes...
A kiln with a 2 material porcelain only. (2 materials)
A kiln with 4 clay bodies and 10 glazes. (40 materials.)

I recently took that dark manganese body that "bloats at cone 6" to cone 8 and it came out fine.

It's no different than a pot of water overflowing if you boil to fast.

Sorce
PERFECTLY said!
 
I, also, have tried both.. and feel more “in control” and “artistically connected” to my pieces during a ONE-firing procedure.

My ONLY note... Is about glaze construction/fabrication (not sure if you’re into that yet) Is using a 3-10 percent ratio of similarly-bodied clay as a portion of your alumina content is wise..
aaaand for glazing greenware glaze construction/application.. MAKE the glaze itself, thicker. Using many thin coats. (Like 10-12 sometimes)

LET DRY WELL BETWEEN COATS!
 
There is some good understanding of this by explaining my single fire since it essentially combines the actions of a bisque and a glaze fire in one.
It ends up being 100F/hour for 20 hours, with a give or take -+20F/hour that gets me to 2200F, where my top is cone 10 and bottom cone 6.

Due to this temp differential, which should be learned in your kiln with cones on every shelf, it's impossible to go any faster because after going slow for water smoking, I gotta go slow through the dunt range of 473F, then, slow for quartz inversion 1000F, then slow for burnout 8 hours with a lot of oxygen to 1900F, then reduction makes it rise slow to finish, so at every turn to gain speed it's just like...eff it. And everything comes out perfect.
Learned all this and promptly forgot about it. I fire by experience and intuition.
There is a Washington Street Studios video that goes over the melt, boil, and vapor times of different materials. All of which need to go slow through there overlapping times, which includes the times their different phases interact with each other.
Great video, as were they all. He will always be missed.
So going slower than slow, always turns out a better product.
Nothing truer than this.
The reason I don't like 2 firings, is because you can't really make either faster, or it severely limits the materials you can use, because the clay body(bisque), and glaze in the glaze fire, both want to go slow AF to produce the strongest, most cohesive melt. So you end up basically using twice as much energy no matter what, or limiting your materials, or churning out meh if you don't limit materials.
Maybe I am not understanding you, but my processes require at least 2 firings. I don't run into any problems until 4 firings and I have met some potters that do up to 5 firings. Granted a lot of this was Raku work which does not apply here. I cannot do my oxide washes on greenware without destroying the textures I work so hard to achieve. My oxide washes often require total submersion of my pieces in water.
I recently took that dark manganese body that "bloats at cone 6" to cone 8 and it came out fine.
I have never had a problem with that clay at all. I assume you mean Standard 112. The came out with 710 to overcome that but people who fire too fast have a problem with both of them. I don't have a problem with either.
 
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