Peter Adams ficus

I realize it's a little late for this, but I think I liked it more as an upright, in the first picture. The apex could've easily been fixed. You'll still make something great of this though, I'm sure.

Thanks RR. It wasn't bad - just a normal informal upright, but not very exciting. I'm more excited about the possibilities now than I was before - it's more dynamic, has better movement and a new apex is the fastest thing to develop. I think you'll end up liking how it turns out. But we'll all see together.

Scott
 
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Repotting. After 20 years, I'm still finding old potting soil in the rootball. I cut deep below the base and adjusted the potting angle as well.

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I think it's all gone now.

Scott
I have a question about these 2 photos showing large sections of base/roots that have been cut down. This is obviously to develop the roots and fit in a shallower pot. But would not all of that exposed area be more prone to rot since it will be sitting in damp soil, possibly at the base of the pot where it straight up sits in standing water for a time? Do you treat those areas at all?
 
I have a question about these 2 photos showing large sections of base/roots that have been cut down. This is obviously to develop the roots and fit in a shallower pot. But would not all of that exposed area be more prone to rot since it will be sitting in damp soil, possibly at the base of the pot where it straight up sits in standing water for a time? Do you treat those areas at all?

Hello W3rk. That’s correct. It’s important to develop a flat rootball and encourage good lateral surface roots. Unless good attention to this has been in place from the beginning, all broadleaf trees have to undergo significant work at some point.

I always use a very coarse, granular substrate and have never had a problem with root rot. I’m not sure what you mean about standing water - I never let any of my trees sit in standing water. I use a pretty dry, well aerated medium. I’ve never treated the exposed wood on the rootball with anything - generally it’s calloused over after a few growing seasons.

S
 
The tree has dropped many aerial roots. I’ve eliminated the ones I don’t want during the growing season and I’ll cut more now - I’m not aiming for a banyan, but roots along the trunk add a lot of interest.

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It was also time for a repot. The rootball was very well developed and in excellent shape. Here are some pictures of the process. Last image is a good example of what I’m shooting for at the end of rootwork. All feeder roots. Flat bottom. Top sloping down.

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Cool looking pot Scott, I am repotting my ficus this weekend as well. Do you leave yours at full sun during the growing season? I have a few aerial roots develop, but they dry out before reaching down to the soil. I started using straws to cover them, a trick I learned from David Cortizas videos, but I would like more roots to develop. We had a big ficus tree in the elementary school I attended from K-1 grade and I used to climb all the way to the top. Last time I went to the island I drove by the school and it was torn down in favor of some myrtles. I guess nowadays it's too dangerous for little kids to climb up trees... I'm potting mine in a grow box lined with root pouch fabric (for research purposes only) to see if it makes a difference.
 
Cool looking pot Scott, I am repotting my ficus this weekend as well. Do you leave yours at full sun during the growing season? I have a few aerial roots develop, but they dry out before reaching down to the soil. I started using straws to cover them, a trick I learned from David Cortizas videos, but I would like more roots to develop. We had a big ficus tree in the elementary school I attended from K-1 grade and I used to climb all the way to the top. Last time I went to the island I drove by the school and it was torn down in favor of some myrtles. I guess nowadays it's too dangerous for little kids to climb up trees... I'm potting mine in a grow box lined with root pouch fabric (for research purposes only) to see if it makes a difference.
Hi M69. I leave mine in full sun all season. Aerial roots develop on their own when the tree is growing very strong, it’s humid and you keep the soil well drained and on the dry side. Under those conditions the tree drops roots all summer. In this case, I just keep the ones that grow along the trunk. Now that I’ve cut back, aerial roots will stop until the tree puts on a bunch of new growth. Then the aerial roots will reactivate. I’ve not needed straws.

s
 
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