perlite with deciduous trees

[Mike Hennigan]

@Mike Hennigan, @A. Gorilla @William N. Valavanis, could you please you provide your current basic perlite mix ratio with regard to collected deciduous?

Also, as @Cable stated -do you apply any techniques that keep it from being buoyant/displaced, floating away, or otherwise not compacted over time -ala other component size, top moss, etc.?

This past year most my trees went into something like 3 parts DE 2 parts perlite. With collected hawthorns I’ve found that a mix that is mostly perlite, like 70% or more works great. I’m still experimenting every year with soil.

I seriously have never had any major problems with perlite floating away or blowing away or whatever. I feel like a lot of the time people who have never tried it as a bonsai soil component poo poo it for this reason, not realizing they are spreading false information. Just do two simple things and you will avoid any floating issues with perlite.

1. Top dress the soil surface with ground sphagnum moss, this holds the soil in place very well among other things

2. Use a free draining mix... which should be standard for any bonsai soil anyways. If your soil is not draining very quickly and is pooling water on the surface then you’ve got bigger problems with your soil than floating perlite. On the other hand, if your mix drains freely you won’t have a pool of water for the perlite to float in in the first place. It’s pretty easy to avoid.

I have MUCH more problems with floating perlite in a standard peat based potting mix because peat does pool up water on the surface easily. No problems at all when it comes to bonsai soil mix.

Bill is right thatbit does seem to break down with freeze thaw cycles, though haven’t noticed any detrimental effects yet. I think the top dressing of moss really is he game changer for using perlite.

 

[TN_Jim]

With regards and respect, that just broke a light outside of the stadium my friend.

Thanks much. This is enlightening. I’ve read of perlite getting such a complete hammer as a valuable resource. In this light, that argument appears much weaker.

We used to be close to volcanoes here in the E. U.S. way back before our mountains became among the oldest mountains on the continent and planet. Surely with such significantly greater biodiversity east of Mississippi in comparison to the west of the continental U.S., I’d like to think we can make due without an abundance of available igneous rock common to historical practice.

However, I am not sure this translates to Japanese maples. Thank you.

Mike, if I could ask one more. Do you have to water this mix more than once a day to have optimal success in summer? You don’t right?

 

[Mike Hennigan]

With regards and respect, that just broke a light outside of the stadium my friend.

Thanks much. This is enlightening. I’ve read of perlite getting such a complete hammer as a valuable resource. In this light, that argument appears much weaker.

We used to be close to volcanoes here in the E. U.S. way back before our mountains became among the oldest mountains on the continent and planet. Surely with such significantly greater biodiversity east of Mississippi in comparison to the west of the continental U.S., I’d like to think we can make due without an abundance of available igneous rock common to historical practice.

However, I am not sure this translates to Japanese maples. Thank you.

Mike, if I could ask one more. Do you have to water this mix more than once a day to have optimal success in summer? You don’t right?

When it gets around 90 and above I’ll usually water twice a day. DE is pretty good at holding water though, it hasn’t been too dry if a mix in my experience. Can always up the water retaining components. For certain trees I will go heavier on the DE, maples being one of them. Maybe more like 70 to 80 percent DE.

 

[A. Gorilla]

@Mike Hennigan, @A. Gorilla @William N. Valavanis, could you please you provide your current basic perlite mix ratio with regard to collected deciduous?

Also, as @Cable stated -do you apply any techniques that keep it from being buoyant/displaced, floating away, or otherwise not compacted over time -ala other component size, top moss, etc.?

Perite sifted through a pond basket. Coarse stuff from hydroponics store.

Schultz (or whatever) perlite from home depot is half dust. Waste of time.

 

[Soldano666]

This past year most my trees went into something like 3 parts DE 2 parts perlite. With collected hawthorns I’ve found that a mix that is mostly perlite, like 70% or more works great. I’m still experimenting every year with soil.

I seriously have never had any major problems with perlite floating away or blowing away or whatever. I feel like a lot of the time people who have never tried it as a bonsai soil component poo poo it for this reason, not realizing they are spreading false information. Just do two simple things and you will avoid any floating issues with perlite.

1. Top dress the soil surface with ground sphagnum moss, this holds the soil in place very well among other things

2. Use a free draining mix... which should be standard for any bonsai soil anyways. If your soil is not draining very quickly and is pooling water on the surface then you’ve got bigger problems with your soil than floating perlite. On the other hand, if your mix drains freely you won’t have a pool of water for the perlite to float in in the first place. It’s pretty easy to avoid.

I have MUCH more problems with floating perlite in a standard peat based potting mix because peat does pool up water on the surface easily. No problems at all when it comes to bonsai soil mix.

Bill is right thatbit does seem to break down with freeze thaw cycles, though haven’t noticed any detrimental effects yet. I think the top dressing of moss really is he game changer for using perlite.

Yup lava and chopped spagnum. And freeze that freeze thaw. Aladama breaks down too. About that time you need to repot anyways. Do it. Coarse #4 perlite and weigh it down. Lava, de, and spag top dressing

 

[kingsville grower]

Anybody have issues with using perlite with deciduous trees, in particular maple trees? It's my understanding that perlite contains a small level of fluoride which can effect some deciduous trees.

I'm looking to use perlite as a replacement for pumice, unless I can finally find a source for pumice in my area and not have to pay for shipping.

Spend the extra money, your trees will thank you