Parson's juniper progress and development idea

[Pigskin Pete]

Here is a tree I've been working since late summer of last year when I bought it from the local nursery. I don't think it will ever be a "show" quality tree, but it has a rugged look I enjoy and I'm learning a lot by taking my time with it.

Here it is when I bought it, except I jinned that branch before pics.



I then pruned it and kept it in it's nursery soil over the fall. Overwintered without issue. Early this spring, I repotted it. 1:1:1, pine bark chips, perlite, and compost soil. I think I would choose a different pot if I was redoing it. I would also avoid the mound style I purposely went for here .


Looking at photo dates, that was mid February. After that I let it sit and relax, just watering it and watching it. I played with adding moss from my back yard.



Now that it is mid- Spring and getting warmer here in North TX, I decided to prune and style just a bit while there is still time in the growing season to recover before fall.

One more with a change of branch direction and pad.



I will let him chill through the fall and winter. My next goals are to keep him alive, address the potting and soil, and possibly consider the changes below...


I know they aren't the best for bonsai, but I'm learning a lot with the parsons that I am collecting! Thoughts or opinions are welcome. I have lots to learn.

 

[Pigskin Pete]

The straightness of that stiff front branch was killing me so rather than wait I used my 4.5 gage wire and gave it as much bend as it would tolerate.

 

[Japonicus]

I think they actually do ok for bonsai. Heavy on the rambunctious growth end of the scale you have to keep at it.
I see 2 possible styles with this juniper. 1st but least, is a raft style with multiple trunks from the soil.
More easily accomplished is what you've lined out jinning the left trunk that is not a pad as that trunk is bigger than the main trunk.
One exception is to keep that 1st branch on the left, that you removed in the mock up on the now main upper trunk.
Also keep that bud in the crotch whatever you do.
Given the coarseness and excited growth habits, a larger tree works out ok.
I would shorten that jin and try to tool or break it to look a little more natural when it dries out good.
With that jin in place, try notching it below and guy wiring that branch you tried bending down.
The jin will come up, but hopefully you can pull the live branch above it down some more.
Once the jin has dried out would be best and it will bounce back down after the guy wire is removed.
I let mine grow on for a good while and have left it in a 17.5 x 14" pot where it remains.
Have also left it on the ground for an entire brutal Winter uncovered, full wind exposure.

I think this is Parsons and is ready for a good thinning.
Allowing the branches to get long and bushy gains branch strength further back.
When you cut back to a point, expect multiple branches from that point and thin accordingly.
Otherwise it gets really coarse and thick and rather unmanageable at that point.
The foliage is prickly as it matures

 

[Pigskin Pete]

With that jin in place, try notching it below and guy wiring that branch you tried bending down.
The jin will come up, but hopefully you can pull the live branch above it down some more.
Once the jin has dried out would be best and it will bounce back down after the guy wire is removed.

I appreciate the insights. I wasn't sure what you meant by this particular passage. Are you saying the jin would be the anchor for a guy wire thag would be used to further bend the live front branch currently wired by heavy gage wiring?

It's funny how I didn't even consider the thickness of that lower large trunk in relation to the upper trunk cutting what I consider to be the main line of the tree. Now that you mention it, I can't unsee it. Perhaps a combination of shortening as you've suggested and adding shari would distract from the thickness? Or would you jin the entire thing? I do kind of like the idea of leaving some live foliage there, as another "level" of pads that would climb or guide the eye towards the ultimate pads/apex of the tree.

Thanks for sharing the picture of that tree and some of your experience. Now I see what they are capable of and have something more grand to which I and this tree can aspire.

 

[Japonicus]

I appreciate the insights. I wasn't sure what you meant by this particular passage. Are you saying the jin would be the anchor for a guy wire thag would be used to further bend the live front branch currently wired by heavy gage wiring?

It's funny how I didn't even consider the thickness of that lower large trunk in relation to the upper trunk cutting what I consider to be the main line of the tree. Now that you mention it, I can't unsee it. Perhaps a combination of shortening as you've suggested and adding shari would distract from the thickness? Or would you jin the entire thing? I do kind of like the idea of leaving some live foliage there, as another "level" of pads that would climb or guide the eye towards the ultimate pads/apex of the tree.

Thanks for sharing the picture of that tree and some of your experience. Now I see what they are capable of and have something more grand to which I and this tree can aspire.

Yes the jin would be an anchor point for a guy wire. Jin will bend upwards as you tighten
so maybe start before it dries out completely. Greener is more pliable, more dry is more fixed, but still moves.

Try to notch jin underneath in shallow manor, outwards of where it will be shortened to, just deep enough for wire to grab.
A bur on a Dremel, a hack saw blade or similar tool would make a shallow notch for the wire loop.
The amount of bend on the jin will be exaggerated the further out the jin you go, so your wire would be at a decent angle.
When you are done with the guy wire, use pliers and break the jin downwards. Start at the end to see how the wood behaves
as you break it rotating the pliers with the jin in jaw, rotate pliers clockwise as you're facing the current front, then move inwards repeating.
The bottom jaw will go left the top jaw will rotate right and the break should look a bit more natural.

 

[Japonicus]

Soon as I started to draw here, I started to change my mind. This angle may not work.
I really think #1 option, the jin will not have enough rigidity to accomplish this bend.
Cutting a thick piece of wire on angle to spear through the soil underneath the roots
should give better purchase. Just keep an eye on the top of the shoulder of the live branch
and stop short of separation from trunk. The underneath carries the life line so a slight separation isn't
a killer. We sometimes bend branches that way to adjust downwards and place a stone in the wedge to keep it
separated, ie. Drop Branch Murphy @Dav4

 

[Japonicus]

You may've used the term 4.5 gage rather than 4.5mm erroneously. Looks like aluminum wire which in bonsai is measured in millimeters. I don't see any reason 8 gauge annealed copper wire wouldn't bend and hold that. Make 2 or 3 spirals up the jin and the other end of the wire up the live branch. Double if more hold needed. Do you understand the slingshot method of wiring 2 branches?

 

[Pigskin Pete]

You may've used the term 4.5 gage rather than 4.5mm erroneously. Looks like aluminum wire which in bonsai is measured in millimeters. I don't see any reason 8 gauge annealed copper wire wouldn't bend and hold that. Make 2 or 3 spirals up the jin and the other end of the wire up the live branch. Double if more hold needed. Do you understand the slingshot method of wiring 2 branches?

Yes, apologies; it is 4.5 mm aluminum wire from wigerts.

I am worried that attempting to bend the live branch further will cause it to snap. It may be relevant or my not but on the backside of that branch is some healed deadwood.

I do believe I understand the slingshot method, in theory at least if still learning in application. I do try where I can to always wire two branches at a time.

 

[Japonicus]

I am worried that attempting to bend the live branch further will cause it to snap. It may be relevant or my not but on the backside of that branch is some healed deadwood.

Duly noted No telling what damaged that branch.
Then twisting guy wire is more safe and precisely controlled.
See if you can get a good sharp wire looped up under the roots avoiding edges.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Go the distance