New JBP from nursery

hardtimes

Mame
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Location
Coastal S. California
USDA Zone
10a
Hi, I picked up a decent sized JBP today. I'd like to know what you guys think about how to style this one. I know the nebari is a mess and that theres an ugly knuckle halfway up the tree. I was thinking about pruning that whole branch and just keeping the lower left branch. theres a crossing branch there too but unsure to remove whether to remove the thinner or thicker branch. I went to needle plucking before getting the good sense to post here first, hope I did it right. There are roots coming out the bottom of the pot, but I cant get the tree to separate from the pot without pulling the hell out it. I know that not everything can be done anytime of the year for most plants so if it's a bad time to prune please let me know. there are also many candles, is now a good time for candle selection?jbp1.jpg
 

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It’s great you could actually go to the nursery and get a JBP. I’ve struck out 😉
I would think about what your goals are with this tree. It looks pretty thin and I’m sure most people would say that it needs to be grown out or if you want to go literati… maybe wire some movement into the trunk.
Now is a good time for bending pines.
There are some pretty good Black pine threads to read before you commit to anything. Also Jonas‘s site Bonsai tonight has lots of good pine info.
 
Candle cutting is around fathers day.
I started with a jbp similar to this, they are fun.
Check out fulvic acid to help with making it grow faster.

Wire in the fall, repot in the spring (but only every few years)

Before you go cutting too much, you might want to make a jin so keep that in mind as an option. They don't grow back.
 
This trunk is still thin and flexible enough to slap some copper wire on and bend into an interesting shape and then let it grow for a few years, as one always does to produce a tapering trunk. The alternative, of course, is to develop the classic zig-zag trunk line that uses a branch at the lowest whirl to become the next straight trunk section. But you'll want to grow it until the bottom section of the trunk is about as thick as you want to have ultimately (developing taper relies on the fact that it won't thicken much until the stem above is about the same thickness). At some point you will have to repot the tree with to affect a slanted (bottom) trunk to make a zig-zag trunk style.

However, you've made it clear that this puppy needs to be repotted. First, I recommend that you put it into a pond basket (which in my experience you can get in an instant at Home Depot, if not elsewhere) filled with your chosen bonsai substrate. This will allow you to have fun developing it over several years' time without the set-back that always comes with repotting. As for getting it out of the present pot, you can always just cut it off - insert scissor point into the drain hole and cut upwards. On the other hand you can lay the pot sideways atop a block (like I see in your photo) and forcibly lean on it while you roll it back and forth - the pot should easily pot off then. Smacking the pot sides with a heavy rubber mallet will also work (and, for future reference works on ceramic pots without destroying them).

Candle selection, meaning reducing the number of candles to two is something I think best left until close to or in winter with JBP, but it probably isn't a big deal one way or the other. Each branch is essentially independent of the other, so you can experiment to quickly learn how all this stuff works by trying different things at different times on different branches. For example, you could cut all the buds off a branch tip now and see what happens. If you do this early in the spring, you'll get new candles (minus any necks from pollen cones). The needles on these 'summer candles' will grow until the end of the season - candle too early and needle lengths may not be any shorter. Candle too late and the tree might just set new buds that won't push until 'next year'. For me, decandling at the end of May gives a nice needle length. Guys in the Bay Area or the southern states my need to wait until July to get the same result. So, you might try removing all buds on a branch tip and just reducing the buds to two on another now, for example. More along this line is that one can prune off a large chunk of the foliage of one branch. It seems that if one does this is spring (prior to the summer solstice), the bud and the base of a needle pair will get released to produce a new shoot. If one does this later in the season, a similar outcome will result, but not until the next spring (next year - should I say 'I think"?).

A fundamental fact is that we humans cannot make a tree grow, We can only selectively weaken branches to achieve our ends. Needles are leaves and leaves produce the food that is the raw material and energy for making more tree. The more foliage there is on a branch, the more rapidly it will thicken over seasons. However, leaves are not particularly productive if they are shaded from sunlight. Needle plucking is just a technique to reduce the vitality of the branch and/or to improve the sun exposure of foliage on a branch below. Plucking needles, though, effectively kills the bud at their base, which means less opportunity for budding back. Budding on bare wood is relatively unlikely, but more likely at a branch node. In a development state, one wants all the foliage they can get at the end of the sacrifice branch (to make it thicken rapidly), but doesn't want to shade the foliage below (since it will be the foliage of the bonsai). But again, this is something you can learn about by experimenting on individual branches. About the only thing that takes the whole tree is that back budding is best and often seemingly spontaneous with a vigorously growing tree (and these have a lot of foliage).

Anyway, there's a ton of fun stuff to do while (eventually) developing a bonsai trunk from what you've got, The cool thing about bonsai is that you can always change (the style of) what you've got, if you're not loving it. It is just time (as I've been told many, many times) and a new design/styling challenge. Regardless, you will never know until you try. The important thing is to have fun with it.
 
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Sounds good, i'll buy a pond basket and repot it. Everyone seems to agree that the trunk can be wired so i'll also get some thicker wire, the trunk didnt seem too flexible to me but i'll try it anyway. as for the rest, i'll just let the tree grow for a few years while considering a shape for the future bonsai. thanks everyone. the nursery nearest by me has a great selection of bonsai material. they have some really big junipers and silver birch that i want to try someday
 
Hmm…. Think a simple up pot in a 2g would be much better, especially in So California where one is fighting drying out a lot..

Secondly, pretty sure a pond basket will not help the tree gain momentum as fast compared to a decent solid sided container would in these conditions

I’m assuming you are not interested in shohin, but still would keep all the lowest foliage on, at least for a year or two…

cheers
DSD sends
 
Hmm…. Think a simple up pot in a 2g would be much better, especially in So California where one is fighting drying out a lot..

Secondly, pretty sure a pond basket will not help the tree gain momentum as fast compared to a decent solid sided container would in these conditions

I’m assuming you are not interested in shohin, but still would keep all the lowest foliage on, at least for a year or two…

cheers
DSD sends
Alright, I have this terracotta pot laying around that seems like a good size. I brushed off the top soil to see the roots, i forgot to take a picture but there are tons of fibrous roots. it looks like the two thickest roots wrapping around the trunk were ready to choke the life out of it. i replaced the top soil with pumice plus some peat moss. last picture i took just to show everyone some sense of scale. i'll repot tomorrow leaving a core of original soil
 

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A terracotta pot will dry really fast up here…

Is it possible to just put it in a 2 gal nursery pot, matching the soil for now?

… in fall prune off the cartwheel as you said

… then next spring do an easy repot, in a container you desire, chop the cross roots and feed it up well for a couple years.

…. Honestly I’d just build a box for it this winter and ask around the right media for your locale.

… then hunker down, feed it up and enjoy it! Think about future styling. You’ll have lots of time to study and learn

…a couple years from now as it becomes a strong and robust, backbiting well it will be time to start pushing it in

Just my thoughts…

Best
DSD sends
 
my microclimate is very humid and mild, im not fighting against drying out too quickly its really quite the opposite on some of my plants. nevertheless i could build a raised bed situation to grow it for a few years. also, its already in a 5 gallon pot. the terracotta pot is the only pot i have on hand that fits. my weather forecasts a heat wave soon so i will most likely wait a few days to repot
 
That’s great. Sorry, I didn’t note how large the container was.

It certainly is your call. If terracotta is all that is on hand for now, what the hey.

Growing the JBP out in the ground would be great for a couple years. We’ve a dozen (JBP, JWP and Mugo) in ground now. The only challenge we have is ‘out of sight out of mind’ and have to be sure to to get down and check them out on a regular basis.

Best of Luck!
DSD sends
 
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