Maples - tips & advice

[Paulpash]

Hi,

I air layered a Japanese Maple last year. This year I pruned off the heavy branches and am starting to develop a branch structure. I was wondering what process or rules that you use to get a good looking and manageable branch structure ?

Here's the bare bones tree. The stub at the base will be removed before the sap rises.

Any advice on development greatly appreciated.

 

[Poink88]

The main trunk is way too straight...if you can put some "movement" on that, it might help it the most for now.

 

[Paulpash]

First branch - trying to create a pleasing base.

 

[Paulpash]

No way whatsoever to wire any shape into it ... only way is to grow out a branch !!

 

[berobinson82]

I also airlayered a maple this season and was going to post it up here. May I ask you what the nebari looks like? From what I've been reading, it's best to work on it earlier than later.

 

[Poink88]

No way whatsoever to wire any shape into it ... only way is to grow out a branch !!

Don't say no way...if there is a will there is a way. I agree it won't be through coiled copper or aluminum wiring though.

 

[JudyB]

It would be good to have more movement in the left trunk for sure. If you cannot bend it, perhaps you could think about cutting back to the first or second branch and start growing it up. I find these are pleasing with a wider silhouette than most trees, so you don't really need all that height, unless you want a tall one. Also there isn't enough taper going up the tree...
Just my thoughts, that is a nice first branch.

 

[Paulpash]

A heavy duty solution .. but how?

 

[Poink88]

A heavy duty solution .. but how?

Read some here (note that this is 3 part)
http://www.bonsaisolutions.com.au/advanced_techniques/bending_thick_brittle_branches_1.html

There are lots of other techniques you can use...some just using a planks of wood (or even just thick branches) and wires. The jacks/branch clamps/branch benders are easiest and they come in various sizes...from tiny to extra large.

More...
http://absbonsai.org/bonsai-articles/tips-and-techniques
http://www.minnesotabonsaisociety.o...hick-branches&catid=7:miscellaneous&Itemid=14
http://peterteabonsai.wordpress.com/2012/02/12/pushing-the-limit/
http://bonsaibpsbonsaiblog-bonsai.blogspot.com/2010/08/making-big-bend.html

etc....

 

[berobinson82]

Take a look at how Bjorn did this big bend.

http://bjorvalabonsaistudio.files.w...ose-up-view-of-the-lower-accentuated-bend.jpg

 

[rockm]

You cannot bend deciduous wood like conifer wood. It is far too brittle to take on drastic bends and will snap pretty easily comparatively.

Additionally, because of the brittle wood and limited amount of bend it will accept, a jack will not be very effective in producing convicing movement in the trunk or branches. Jacks can also wind up leaving some bad scarring behind from pressure points. Misalign them or put them on incorrectly and you can skin a sizeable piece of bark off the tree.

A more effective, but time consuming, way to build convincing movement into the main trunk (and branches--which are 'built' in much the same way as a trunk) is through repeated hard pruning over a number of years--regrowing the leader in a different direction each time. It takes longer, but it looks much more convincing. No amount of wired "S" curved secondary branches in a deciduous tree compares to naturally-shaped branches made through cut and grow methods.

 

[gergwebber]

It would be good to have more movement in the left trunk for sure. If you cannot bend it, perhaps you could think about cutting back to the first or second branch and start growing it up. I find these are pleasing with a wider silhouette than most trees, so you don't really need all that height, unless you want a tall one. Also there isn't enough taper going up the tree...
Just my thoughts, that is a nice first branch.

I agree, but would try to layer the top where it starts to move, it would have great taper and you would still be able to grow out the base.

I have a tree that looks similar: I got it from a client who had a few hundred JM seedlings to deal with every year. The tree I got had about a 3/4" trunk and was ~1' high. I immediately began wiring, but only the top 1/3 of the trunk would hold a decent curve. I will air layer that tip this spring and grow out the base.

I mean if you are going to chop, why not gamble a year and try to get two trees?

 

[Good_Ol_JR]

I completely agree with Rock, anyone with any experience working a Japanese Maple can take one look at that trunk and tell you it is not a candidate to bend. Sometimes our real life experience is not as complete as our theoretical knowledge gained from books and reading, but I have not seen a maple of that caliper bent anywhere. Decidious bonsai requires wiring branches when they are young and then growing to the desired thickness, not heavy bending as may be the quickest route to success in some conifer bonsai. Its a tough problem and if the straight trunk is too harsh for you to live with then you will absolutely have to cut back and regrow. Perhaps a different angle and a tilt would make it less unreasonable looking.

 

[Beng]

I think it could be bent to the left just do it in stages over a number of years. This would put the apex in a nicer position as well and the movement would be more elegant and complementing of the right trunk. As to how many years it will take a trunk like that to hold the bend, that may be the bigger problem. You may get more scars from the drastic bend then it's worth, and maples do not heal scars easily at all...

It doesn't need a drastic bend just a nice sway to the left.

 

[Poink88]

You cannot bend deciduous wood like conifer wood. It is far too brittle to take on drastic bends and will snap pretty easily comparatively.

Additionally, because of the brittle wood and limited amount of bend it will accept, a jack will not be very effective in producing convicing movement in the trunk or branches. Jacks can also wind up leaving some bad scarring behind from pressure points. Misalign them or put them on incorrectly and you can skin a sizeable piece of bark off the tree.

A more effective, but time consuming, way to build convincing movement into the main trunk (and branches--which are 'built' in much the same way as a trunk) is through repeated hard pruning over a number of years--regrowing the leader in a different direction each time. It takes longer, but it looks much more convincing. No amount of wired "S" curved secondary branches in a deciduous tree compares to naturally-shaped branches made through cut and grow methods.

I completely agree with Rock, anyone with any experience working a Japanese Maple can take one look at that trunk and tell you it is not a candidate to bend. Sometimes our real life experience is not as complete as our theoretical knowledge gained from books and reading, but I have not seen a maple of that caliper bent anywhere. Decidious bonsai requires wiring branches when they are young and then growing to the desired thickness, not heavy bending as may be the quickest route to success in some conifer bonsai. Its a tough problem and if the straight trunk is too harsh for you to live with then you will absolutely have to cut back and regrow. Perhaps a different angle and a tilt would make it less unreasonable looking.

I agree that grow and chop is better but I disagree that the size is not bendable. I've bent bigger and harder wood (boxwood and brazilian raintree) and I am a newbie. Send me one and I will do it.

From my first foray with Bonsai, I have been told by many I cannot do this or that and I recent that. People seem to be too negative just because they haven't tried or done it. Most things can be done if you put your thinking hat on. Sure, there is a learning curve but do not say it is impossible. We should be more encouraging...to experiment and push things. On this case...if the bend did not work, then chop. You lost nothing but a few hours...if you intend to chop anyway. Just another point of view.

If you accepted that it cannot be done...then you are beaten and YES...you won't be able to do it. Sad.

 

[MACH5]

I don't think drastic "S" bending is needed in this design. I think with a nice wide curve outwards on the bigger trunk may be all that's necessary to brake away from the static and rigid feel it has now. As a result you may also have to adjust the smaller trunk as well but that should be easy. For this, I would suggest to use copper wire wrapped in floral tape to help avoid damage to the bark. You may have to do this several times before the trunk sets into the desired curve.

 

[JudyB]

Not my tree, but does the lack of taper not bother anyone else on that larger trunk? Even if it did have some curve, would it change the fact that it's the same basic size almost all the way up? For me, that is part of what I see that I don't like.
For me, Japanese maples are all about the feminine, curvy, slender at the top....
Just me, don't mind me....

 

[DaveV]

Don't worrry about trying to bend the trunk now ( IMO). Maples are enjoyed when they are in full leaf (spring, summer and early fall). When JM are in full leaf it is hard to see the trunk line - though it would be nice to have more movement, sometime you can't. Enjoy the tree for what it is and develope ramification. Again IMO.

 

[Dav4]

Don't worrry about trying to bend the trunk now ( IMO). Maples are enjoyed when they are in full leaf (spring, summer and early fall). When JM are in full leaf it is hard to see the trunk line - though it would be nice to have more movement, sometime you can't. Enjoy the tree for what it is and develope ramification. Again IMO.

I guess the question is, concerning this tree, whether it can be improved beyond what it is right now. I can't tell how nice the base and nebari are due to the moss. If it's got a nice root spread, I would say it would be worth doing something more significant to it, like a chop. If the potential is there, I would want to reach for it and try to make it as good as possible.

 

[MACH5]

Not my tree, but does the lack of taper not bother anyone else on that larger trunk? Even if it did have some curve, would it change the fact that it's the same basic size almost all the way up? For me, that is part of what I see that I don't like.
For me, Japanese maples are all about the feminine, curvy, slender at the top....
Just me, don't mind me....

Yes I agree with you Judy that the tree's lack of apparent taper needs to be addressed. With this tree I think this is something that can be corrected in time. Also a slight rotation may possibly reveal a slight taper to the trunk? It's though to say with just one view. I would opt to start giving it some movement and go from there in this particular case. I personally would not do a drastic chop just yet. I also think scars need to be cleaned up.

Don't worrry about trying to bend the trunk now ( IMO). Maples are enjoyed when they are in full leaf (spring, summer and early fall). When JM are in full leaf it is hard to see the trunk line - though it would be nice to have more movement, sometime you can't. Enjoy the tree for what it is and develope ramification. Again IMO.[/




Deciduous trees should always have a sound structure. I don't think we should ever use leaves to cover structural flaws. Although everyone has different ways to appreciate trees, a huge aspect of enjoying Japanese maples is in their Winter silhouette. Not only are they beautiful without leaves, but also shows the skill of the artist in the most honest and humble manner.

Interestingly enough, the Japanese equate maples with women. They believe that women should still be beautiful even without their make up just like a maple should still be beautiful even without its leaves.