Japanese maples suffering from heat stress

I used to live in Southern California. It was my experience there as well. Once the Santa Anas start blowing, and that dry air starts flowing off the high desert, all bets are off. If you don't have your JM in complete wind protection, your leaves are going to crisp - even in total shade.:)
Wind protection is crucial and my second step, then! Any advice on what I could use? Would a shade cloth provide sufficient protection?
 
My amateur 2cent opinion.
A 10min deep soak would be my first port of call, in shower or bath if lacking outside space, lifting dirt will just cause more stress at the moment.
Get pot down to floor level. (careful of placing directly on hot concrete, in Oz I'd be worried about even the colour of the pot lol.
Id be looking at ferns etc to surround to act like a moist microclimate, they will also give hints of extreme conditions before the maple.
I try never to water in the morning and if I do the tree goes inside or full shade for the day.
Good luck.
Extremely helpful advice, thanks so much mate. I’ll try figuring out how to get her down while still having breathing room.

I’ll make sure to give the pot a solid soak when I’m home. Could I ask you to explain a little more about ‘lifting dirt’? Do you mean how the dirt gets a bit messy after a direct watering with a can?

Ferns sound like a wonderful idea, fine if I just stick a few pots of generic ferns around the garden? Or am I misunderstanding?

Will make sure to restrict watering in the arvo - makes sense why morning watering could be dangerous.

Thanks again mate.
 
Extremely helpful advice, thanks so much mate. I’ll try figuring out how to get her down while still having breathing room.

I’ll make sure to give the pot a solid soak when I’m home. Could I ask you to explain a little more about ‘lifting dirt’? Do you mean how the dirt gets a bit messy after a direct watering with a can?

Ferns sound like a wonderful idea, fine if I just stick a few pots of generic ferns around the garden? Or am I misunderstanding?

Will make sure to restrict watering in the arvo - makes sense why morning watering could be dangerous.

Thanks again mate
Lifting dirt : I don't think theres any tell tale signs of hot water death on roots,(could be wrong) so no point in checking the roots stressing the plant more than it already is.
Ferns in my head can act as soil shade, wind filter and added evaporated moisture to the immediate area.
✌️❤️🇳🇿
 
For what it's worth, I'm in Melbourne and I have a Bloodgood in full sun with little wind protection and its leaves are not crispy at all. The key is daily watering when it is warm and dry. Most Japanese maples can handle the heat with enough water.
 
Lifting dirt : I don't think theres any tell tale signs of hot water death on roots,(could be wrong) so no point in checking the roots stressing the plant more than it already is.
Ferns in my head can act as soil shade, wind filter and added evaporated moisture to the immediate area.
✌️❤️🇳🇿
Amazing! Thanks so much mate. Appreciate your help.
 
For what it's worth, I'm in Melbourne and I have a Bloodgood in full sun with little wind protection and its leaves are not crispy at all. The key is daily watering when it is warm and dry. Most Japanese maples can handle the heat with enough water.
Thanks mate - appreciate your input. Yeah I think my housesitter was watering them maybe every 3 ish days so I don’t think that’s sufficient.

Hoping for the best.
 
Here in Louisiana, I have to keep my Japanese maples in full shade during the hottest months of the summer. Even in part shade, they seem to burn.
 
Here in Louisiana, I have to keep my Japanese maples in full shade during the hottest months of the summer. Even in part shade, they seem to burn.
Thanks mate - mine are in full shade so I will assume it is wind and heat impacting it. Would you be inclined to agree?
 
Thanks mate - mine are in full shade so I will assume it is wind and heat impacting it. Would you be inclined to agree?
Dry heat, especially if it is windy, will do this. Basically, the tree is unable to pump water from the roots to the leaves at a rate faster than the heat/wind is evaporating it out.

I would keep it watered well and protect it the best you can from the wind.

I have one that drops its leaves at the end of summer and doesn't get the back until Spring. It is a laceleaf and no matter what I do, it just can't pull enough water up.

You can also try repotting it in the Spring with a well-aerated soil mix that promotes fine root growth, but you would need to increase watering as an aerated soil mix tends to retain less water. More fine-roots = more moisture uptake capability.

Edit: My maples are watered twice per day in the summer using an automated watering setup.
 
For what it's worth, I'm in Melbourne and I have a Bloodgood in full sun with little wind protection and its leaves are not crispy at all. The key is daily watering when it is warm and dry. Most Japanese maples can handle the heat with enough water.
Granted that JM can be grown in Melbourne with adequate water - most of the time but there are a lot more variables that you appear to be allowing for.
Trees that have been in pots for a few years become more difficult to keep the water up to as spaces in the potting soil that used to hold water are now filled with roots.
Different sized pots will impact how much water the trees have access to. Obviously very small pots relative to the size of the tree may not hold enough water to last through a hot day.
Different potting mixes drain more or less and hold more or less water than others. A tree in the same sized pot may cope well in a moisture retaining mix but dry out in a more open potting mix.
Even in a single city like Melbourne there can be significant differences in micro climate. Bayside suburbs have higher humidity and lower temperatures moderated by the nearby ocean. Elevated areas are generally cooler than open, exposed areas. North- Western suburbs will generally be hotter, drier and windier. Leafy Eastern suburbs are cooler and more sheltered than newer exposed areas. Higher apartment terraces are more exposed to dry winds than ground level courtyards so there will be significant differences in how the same tree will cope in different parts of the metro area.
Watering habits can vary. Inadequate watering may allow the pot to get a little drier each day. When soil gets dry it becomes hydrophobic and difficult to wet properly. It may appear well watered on the surface but most of the water applied has run right through without properly wetting the roots.
As the temp rises and humidity decreases, here seems to be a point where Japanese maples just can't take in enough water to cool themselves, even though the soil is still wet.

Going back to the original question: From the pics I'd say these trees have excellent chance of recovery provided they receive proper care soon. Always soak a dehydrated pot in water for an hour, even overnight to ensure the tree gets water and the soil is properly wet. If the pots are too big to fit into a container of water the pots need to be well watered 3-5 times in an hour or so. The first few times will only wet the surface, even if water runs out the bottom of the pot. Subsequent water soaks deeper and deeper into the root zone. It is important that the entire pot be wet so keep watering intermittently.
FWIW, I water most of my pots morning and evening through summer and still get occasional dehydrated trees.
There are also some measures you can take to mitigate dehydration if it becomes a problem.
 
Dry heat, especially if it is windy, will do this. Basically, the tree is unable to pump water from the roots to the leaves at a rate faster than the heat/wind is evaporating it out.

I would keep it watered well and protect it the best you can from the wind.

I have one that drops its leaves at the end of summer and doesn't get the back until Spring. It is a laceleaf and no matter what I do, it just can't pull enough water up.

You can also try repotting it in the Spring with a well-aerated soil mix that promotes fine root growth, but you would need to increase watering as an aerated soil mix tends to retain less water. More fine-roots = more moisture uptake capability.

Edit: My maples are watered twice per day in the summer using an automated watering setup.
Thanks so much mate - this is incredibly helpful and comforting, especially knowing that your lace leaf is acting the same as mine.

I’ll set up an automated drip watering system at some point this year - one of my new year’s resos - and will be patient and wait til spring.

Hope you and your family have a wonderful new year and please let me know if you have any other thoughts you think would be helpful.
 
Granted that JM can be grown in Melbourne with adequate water - most of the time but there are a lot more variables that you appear to be allowing for.
Trees that have been in pots for a few years become more difficult to keep the water up to as spaces in the potting soil that used to hold water are now filled with roots.
Different sized pots will impact how much water the trees have access to. Obviously very small pots relative to the size of the tree may not hold enough water to last through a hot day.
Different potting mixes drain more or less and hold more or less water than others. A tree in the same sized pot may cope well in a moisture retaining mix but dry out in a more open potting mix.
Even in a single city like Melbourne there can be significant differences in micro climate. Bayside suburbs have higher humidity and lower temperatures moderated by the nearby ocean. Elevated areas are generally cooler than open, exposed areas. North- Western suburbs will generally be hotter, drier and windier. Leafy Eastern suburbs are cooler and more sheltered than newer exposed areas. Higher apartment terraces are more exposed to dry winds than ground level courtyards so there will be significant differences in how the same tree will cope in different parts of the metro area.
Watering habits can vary. Inadequate watering may allow the pot to get a little drier each day. When soil gets dry it becomes hydrophobic and difficult to wet properly. It may appear well watered on the surface but most of the water applied has run right through without properly wetting the roots.
As the temp rises and humidity decreases, here seems to be a point where Japanese maples just can't take in enough water to cool themselves, even though the soil is still wet.

Going back to the original question: From the pics I'd say these trees have excellent chance of recovery provided they receive proper care soon. Always soak a dehydrated pot in water for an hour, even overnight to ensure the tree gets water and the soil is properly wet. If the pots are too big to fit into a container of water the pots need to be well watered 3-5 times in an hour or so. The first few times will only wet the surface, even if water runs out the bottom of the pot. Subsequent water soaks deeper and deeper into the root zone. It is important that the entire pot be wet so keep watering intermittently.
FWIW, I water most of my pots morning and evening through summer and still get occasional dehydrated trees.
There are also some measures you can take to mitigate dehydration if it becomes a problem.
Thanks so much for taking the time to write such an extensive response.

I’ll get my housesitter to start giving the soil a strong spray down with a spray bottle to gradually soak the soil and will follow your instructions on properly soaking the soil once I’m home - in about a week (hoping this isn’t too late).

Really appreciate your help & insight and wishing you and your family the best for 2025.
 
Granted that JM can be grown in Melbourne with adequate water - most of the time but there are a lot more variables that you appear to be allowing for.
Trees that have been in pots for a few years become more difficult to keep the water up to as spaces in the potting soil that used to hold water are now filled with roots.
Different sized pots will impact how much water the trees have access to. Obviously very small pots relative to the size of the tree may not hold enough water to last through a hot day.
Different potting mixes drain more or less and hold more or less water than others. A tree in the same sized pot may cope well in a moisture retaining mix but dry out in a more open potting mix.
Even in a single city like Melbourne there can be significant differences in micro climate. Bayside suburbs have higher humidity and lower temperatures moderated by the nearby ocean. Elevated areas are generally cooler than open, exposed areas. North- Western suburbs will generally be hotter, drier and windier. Leafy Eastern suburbs are cooler and more sheltered than newer exposed areas. Higher apartment terraces are more exposed to dry winds than ground level courtyards so there will be significant differences in how the same tree will cope in different parts of the metro area.
Watering habits can vary. Inadequate watering may allow the pot to get a little drier each day. When soil gets dry it becomes hydrophobic and difficult to wet properly. It may appear well watered on the surface but most of the water applied has run right through without properly wetting the roots.
As the temp rises and humidity decreases, here seems to be a point where Japanese maples just can't take in enough water to cool themselves, even though the soil is still wet.

I agree with all of this. To clarify, my maples all have a bit of spare room in the pots. None are near concrete or hot surfaces. All are watered often enough that the soil won't become hydrophobic.
 
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