Hartinez
Masterpiece
Most of the wiring was from last fall. Some new. It was all a bit mismatched though, so even if it wasn’t biting it was removed.
Mame coral beauty Cotoneaster, 3 month progression
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Hartinez
Masterpiece
Hey @Leo in N E Illinois and @0soyoung maybe you guys could help me diagnose my issue here. I’m thinking the issue is fungal. Tips of the leaves keep going brown then dead. New growth is still coming in, but not as robust as 3/4 weeks ago. I have another that was hit much harder and while alive is struggling. My thoughts would be not enough sun? Not drying out between watering a maybe? Anthracanose perhaps? Daconil treatments? Or mancozeb perhaps? Thanks guys.
Mayank
Chumono
Oh no! You know how much I love that tree Danny! Anyway, hope it recovers completely. You don't think it is an insect? Like mites or aphids or scale or something. Have you sprayed at all this season?
Hartinez
Masterpiece
Hey Mayan! That makes 2 of us. Really hoping I can solve the issue. I have given it a Daconil treatment a couple of weeks ago, but nothing since and no insecticide. I don’t think I’m seeing bugs but i will def inspect closer
Mayank
Chumono
Hopefully one of the gurus will weigh in. I've used just dawn dishwashing detergent foamy water to rinse leaves of my Fukien Tea before when it's infected (which is like every year pretty much) and usually most of the leaves just fall off and then it comes back. Recently I've been more aggressive with a systemic insecticide with that particular tree.
BTW, checked out your website. Very nice and innovative stuff. You are a very talented person!
Hartinez
Masterpiece
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I was aggressive with dormant season spray on many other trees but not these. Lost a pyracantha earlier this season also. From what seemed to be the same issue.
thanks dude! Things have slowed down lately, but picking back up. Hardest part is getting work done with the kids at home. I’m feeling motivated to work on more furniture based projects and more stand builds!
I was aggressive with dormant season spray on many other trees but not these. Lost a pyracantha earlier this season also. From what seemed to be the same issue.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
It could have gotten to dry sitting in the sun a while back and desiccated the leaf tips, but didn't show immediately. You water and treat it well, the past damage then becomes apparent about the same time as new leaves come out ???
In my experience, new leaves are more susceptible to fungal infections than mature ones --> not fungal.
I've had some plants that would do something similar to this when water was left on their leaves (rain or incidental sprinkling by me). Even though immediately spraying with my fav peroxide solution nixed it, there was a clear pattern of browning on low hanging leaf tips. You've got older leaf tips going every which way, so it seems unlikely to be a similar issue --> not fungal.
Root anoxia will clobber all the foliage. Young foliage will be weak and sickly --> not 'over-watering'
Like pyracantha, my coto blows off old leaves until the start of flowering which was 4-6 weeks ago now --> not normal leaf ageing.
So, by my thinking, you let it get too dry a while back. If you do it again, your new leaves will follow the same course. Of course, all it takes is one dry day that you're just a bit late giving it water, so you might relocate it to a bit shadier location or cover the pot with something that will reduce evaporation directly from the substrate to the air. Regardless of what you do, those damaged leaves are permanently damaged. The ageing of new leaves is your 'barometer'.
In my experience, new leaves are more susceptible to fungal infections than mature ones --> not fungal.
I've had some plants that would do something similar to this when water was left on their leaves (rain or incidental sprinkling by me). Even though immediately spraying with my fav peroxide solution nixed it, there was a clear pattern of browning on low hanging leaf tips. You've got older leaf tips going every which way, so it seems unlikely to be a similar issue --> not fungal.
Root anoxia will clobber all the foliage. Young foliage will be weak and sickly --> not 'over-watering'
Like pyracantha, my coto blows off old leaves until the start of flowering which was 4-6 weeks ago now --> not normal leaf ageing.
So, by my thinking, you let it get too dry a while back. If you do it again, your new leaves will follow the same course. Of course, all it takes is one dry day that you're just a bit late giving it water, so you might relocate it to a bit shadier location or cover the pot with something that will reduce evaporation directly from the substrate to the air. Regardless of what you do, those damaged leaves are permanently damaged. The ageing of new leaves is your 'barometer'.
Hartinez
Masterpiece
Interesting. And could be possible. Weird thing is how slowly it’s happened. My experience in the past is that a drying out shows immediately. Can desecation be slow to show in some cases? I was watering the whole tree leaves and all for a while so I wonder if the leaves being too wet is also an issue as you said. Here’s a pic of the other tree struggling.
Leo in N E Illinois
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I followed through @0soyoung 's diagnosis. I agree it is not fungal. It could be drying out.
Somewhere around 40, I needed bifocals. To this day mites, of all types, including spider mites, flat mites, false mites 2 spotted mites, and any other of the tiny little suckers, they are too small foe me to see. Your leaves look "silvery" in the photos, and hairy. One possibility could be one of the mites. It could also be either powdery mildew or downy mildew. Though it doesn't look quite right for that.
My suggestion is an All-in-One Rose spray. These are typically formulated with miticide, insecticide, and fungicides for black spot & the powdery mildew and downy mildew. The "old school" formulation was a fine powder you sprayed on the roses by squeezing the plastic canister. There are liquid formulations also. But be sure the one you use has the 4 components, insecticide, miticide, and 2 or more different fungicides to tackle possible fungus.
Cotoneaster are related to roses. It is pretty safe to use a product labelled for roses on cotoneaster and Pyracantha, Pears and apples.
This might be an atypical presentation of the black spot fungus that shows up on roses. Though I'm also inclined to go with 0soyoung's diagnosis. Still, treat with an all in one rose spray as they cover a range of issues and you don't want to loose this tree. Throw ''everything including the Kitchen Sink" at it.
Somewhere around 40, I needed bifocals. To this day mites, of all types, including spider mites, flat mites, false mites 2 spotted mites, and any other of the tiny little suckers, they are too small foe me to see. Your leaves look "silvery" in the photos, and hairy. One possibility could be one of the mites. It could also be either powdery mildew or downy mildew. Though it doesn't look quite right for that.
My suggestion is an All-in-One Rose spray. These are typically formulated with miticide, insecticide, and fungicides for black spot & the powdery mildew and downy mildew. The "old school" formulation was a fine powder you sprayed on the roses by squeezing the plastic canister. There are liquid formulations also. But be sure the one you use has the 4 components, insecticide, miticide, and 2 or more different fungicides to tackle possible fungus.
Cotoneaster are related to roses. It is pretty safe to use a product labelled for roses on cotoneaster and Pyracantha, Pears and apples.
This might be an atypical presentation of the black spot fungus that shows up on roses. Though I'm also inclined to go with 0soyoung's diagnosis. Still, treat with an all in one rose spray as they cover a range of issues and you don't want to loose this tree. Throw ''everything including the Kitchen Sink" at it.
Leo in N E Illinois
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I keep an "All-in-One" rose spray around for those emergencies where I just can not figure out what is going on. I'd say it works maybe 70% of the time. That last 30% is where I never did figure it out and the tree died anyway.
Hartinez
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Thanks @0soyoung @Leo in N E Illinois and @Mayank . I appreciate the help and that you guys are still around to give that help!!
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Cotoneaster reminds me of Serissa except cotoneaster seems to want to stay alive. 
I hope so, I recently got a couple.Cotoneaster reminds me of Serissa except cotoneaster seems to want to stay alive.
Hartinez
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Still struggling these 2. I’ve been doing a rotation of sprays, all purpose rose spray and daconil. there is new growth but quite a bit not looking so hot. I’m considering going through and pruning out all of the not so healthy leaves. @Leo in N E Illinois what do you think? 
Mike Corazzi
Masterpiece
Bayer Tree & Shrub Feed & Protect and your troubles are over.
Past 2 years, not one aphid or scale on olive, crabapple, or cotoneaster. Actually not anything but those were the bug prone.
Past 2 years, not one aphid or scale on olive, crabapple, or cotoneaster. Actually not anything but those were the bug prone.
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sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I think the nice tree is keeping us from realizing it was worked too fast.
Further....
Some trees will grow "vigorously" and you can cut them back again and again.
Some trees, shrubs for PC, grow folaige so fast cuz they need it to live.
Reckon this is one.
Lotta work, maybe a late Repot, then more work, and flowers? Taxed.
If it makes it. Cut that second up left branch off!
Sorce
Further....
Some trees will grow "vigorously" and you can cut them back again and again.
Some trees, shrubs for PC, grow folaige so fast cuz they need it to live.
Reckon this is one.
Lotta work, maybe a late Repot, then more work, and flowers? Taxed.
If it makes it. Cut that second up left branch off!
Sorce
LCD35
Mame
Sorce, it's an interesting observation you make that might have some merit. I've had a few that I've pushed hard and fast in my new hobby zeal and of course they didn't turn out well. By that I mean they are dead.
AJL
Chumono
Could it be Fireblight ? Its a bacterial disease affecting Rosaceae, and Cotoneaster are susceptible.
Your Fungicide and insecticide sprays wouldnt stop it.
Either way whatever the cause it would pay to remove all diseased leaves and prune all affected twigs back to healthy growth and,disinfect your pruners after working the tree.
Your Fungicide and insecticide sprays wouldnt stop it.
Either way whatever the cause it would pay to remove all diseased leaves and prune all affected twigs back to healthy growth and,disinfect your pruners after working the tree.
Leo in N E Illinois
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Certainly clean out dead foliage, and may as well clean out dead branches. It will not hurt. Dead leaves, if killed by insects, may hide some of the bugs from insecticide sprays. If fungal, the dead leaves might be providing spores for re-infection. So no matter what, clean out the dead.
I never thought of fire blight. I think the spray of choice is tetracycline. @NOZZLE HEAD - what do you think about fire blight and what would you spray?
Hartinez
Masterpiece
Thanks for all the suggestions. I really feel like I can get these 2 to pull through as they want to push new growth. I’m going to prune them very hard today and keep em quarantined.
