Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
- Messages
- 13,395
- Reaction score
- 31,674
- USDA Zone
- 6a
I'd wait until your buds turn into fully formed leaves before applying any ferts.How soon can/should I begin fertilizing?
I'd wait until your buds turn into fully formed leaves before applying any ferts.How soon can/should I begin fertilizing?
I'd wait until your buds turn into fully formed leaves before applying any ferts.
Yes. I use plantone as an organic placed on the soil surface in pvc rings or in tea bags, and I apply miracle gro or peters liquid and fish emulsion. I use the same ferts all season long as I believe the tree takes what it needs when it needs it and leaves the rest to be flushed from the soil.Cool! I'm assuming a fairly balanced ratio will be suitable for this stage of development?
How about water!?
It looks right droopy!
Is it windy as hell down there too today?
Sorce
Completely normal. Japanese maples are the same. They look all droopy when leaves first come out. I never like that stage for that reason. Be careful with over watering your tree specially in cool spring weather.
Looking good. It is a great looking little tree, really like its trunk movement and skinny waist.
I need to get some of those anderson flats.. I've been pointed towards them quite a bit but im in UK and they ship to here.
It was good to know the first leaves look droopy to begin with and thats normal. I wasn't sure about that.
I do know that you should be careful waiting for it to dry before watering. Maples don't like dry.
I looked it up recently as some trees prefer to be moist for longer, or never touch any dryness or never too wet, etc etc. Maples have a preference of not wanting to touch any dryness. As far as I am told.
Im sure someone here can correct me if wrong though.
Although I believe most trees don't like touching any dryness.
I'd say you're right. I try to be careful not to let the soil completely dry. I always just assume that even though the top layer is dry, there's some moisture down deeper, especially in the large flats. Plus, our climate is very humid, so the deeper soil stays damp quite a while. And if the top layer is still wet, I don't water it at all.
It's all a balancing act, I suppose. I just try to read the tree. There's a great article on Bonsai Tonight about evaluating a bonsai's water needs.
I'd say you're right. I try to be careful not to let the soil completely dry. I always just assume that even though the top layer is dry, there's some moisture down deeper, especially in the large flats. Plus, our climate is very humid, so the deeper soil stays damp quite a while. And if the top layer is still wet, I don't water it at all.
It's all a balancing act, I suppose. I just try to read the tree. There's a great article on Bonsai Tonight about evaluating a bonsai's water needs.
Looks good Grant. If you haven't done so yet, go ahead and fertilize. I use a combination of solid cake fertilizer on the soil surface as well as liquid once a week. Don't pinch the growing tips or prune at this stage - just let it grow and get strong until the spring shoots hardens off. Before they fully lignifies we'll thin and wire and cut back where appropriate. The tree will respond by sending out another cycle of growth. We can repeat this several times during the growing season. Mine are a few weeks ahead of yours in growth so I'll try and document some spring work on Tridents for you when the time is right.
Uh, no cut back before wiring. Maybe some thing like removing downward growing shoots!
Maybe removing some leaves, or cutting leaves in half.
You wire with the leaves still on! Yeah, I know, it's a pain. No one ever said bonsai was easy!