Yes, I was assuming it's been in this pot for at least a year or two. Even if it was grown in the ground or collected, after a time the roots just run and coil. The pot is deep as well, and that means you'll grow a lot of root mass below the soil. If you saw that off, you can work the root structure up near the nice radial roots you have.Thanks for the quick response.
I just cut it 10 min ago, thinking about taking it down further now. Don’t see any harm in that.
The roots- Do you mean the roots that coil with the pot giving it the appearance it was grown in a pot??
Thanks again
When you say keep an eye on the cut, do you mean to keep cutting back the over grown callus to keep as to prrvent reverse taper?Yes, I was assuming it's been in this pot for at least a year or two. Even if it was grown in the ground or collected, after a time the roots just run and coil. The pot is deep as well, and that means you'll grow a lot of root mass below the soil. If you saw that off, you can work the root structure up near the nice radial roots you have.
Given the drastic trunk chop you've done, you may want to consider transferring the tree (if you flatten the root base) to a small concrete mixing tub like they have at Home Depot. Drill a bunch of holes in the bottom. This will give the tree room to grow, while keeping the root base flat for its future bonsai pot.
You'll need to keep a close watch on the swelling you'll get at the top of the angle cut. I always recommend a flat cut. The new leader will grow with extreme vigor, and the rolling callus can produce a reverse taper at the top of the chop. So you'll need to keep a close eye on it and manage it to prevent this.
Yes, you'll need to be vigilant at the chop point so the callus doesn't bulge too much. It would probably be best to manage it by cutting back the new leader. That should slow down the swelling.When you say keep an eye on the cut, do you mean to keep cutting back the over grown callus to keep as to prrvent reverse taper?
So you do recommend to take the roots down now even though I chopped it??
Well, dude this is going to sound pretty harsh, but you chopped it WAAAAAAY too low. Now you will have a decade growing out a new leader to match the tunk's diameter. Like Zach said, now's the time to drastically reduce the roots, since you went wild on the top.Hope I didn’t chop too low, but I left a lower branch and new leader. Didn’t repot as of now bc I didn’t want to stress the tree more than I already have
I don't know if you've worked with BC, but this kind of chop produces extreme and severe taper. Additionally, the foliage on BC tends to droop. That is one of the reasons you don't see shohin sized BC. Shorter trees and extremely short trees can't visually support the foliage. The "finished" tree using this trunk is probably going to be less than 12 inches. That is not a lot of room to develop branching. An initial trunk chop this low cripples your options.I don't think you chopped it too low though. If you do it at where there were several branches then you still have a taperless trunk for that high. That would be perfectly fine if you are ok with it. NOT everything has to be severe tapered. I would work the root as well since now is the best time to do it.
You want it in the sun. There's no foliage to be stressed by the sun, but the sun will prompt budding. So give it what it needs!Im guessing shade for the next cpl weeks???
Thanks for all the responses btw!
Zach has years and years of experience working with Bald Cypress. You should not be second guessing his advice. You came on here, asking for advice. You’re getting it from an expert. Why ask if you’re not going to follow it?Hope I didn’t chop too low, but I left a lower branch and new leader. Didn’t repot as of now bc I didn’t want to stress the tree more than I already have
Maybe I'm looking at the tree wrong, but that back angle looks far shorter than 12" Might be me though. Another thought--scar callus that will cover that chop has very little, if any resting buds. In other words, that scar area will be very reluctant to produce any new shoots or branching. Thread grafting down the road can help.Well the cut mark is taller than 12” so I’d imagine it’s going to be pretty tall when finished. I just hope I didn’t kill the tree which is why Im worried about messing with the roots also.
A bald cypress can grow pretty quick in a large container, but I’m in no hurry. And unless I’m creating a bunjin style, I like to see taper and that trunk was just way to straight for me. So as long as the tree survives my torture I’ll be happy!
What advise did I not follow??Zach has years and years of experience working with Bald Cypress. You should not be second guessing his advice. You came on here, asking for advice. You’re getting it from an expert. Why ask if you’re not going to follow it?
I’m gonna do some root pruning on it today. Then I’m guessing shade...Maybe I'm looking at the tree wrong, but that back angle looks far shorter than 12" Might be me though. Another thought--scar callus that will cover that chop has very little, if any resting buds. In other words, that scar area will be very reluctant to produce any new shoots or branching. Thread grafting down the road can help.
You're slowing yourself down by not tackling those roots. Now is the time to do the heavy lifting on what will probably be a tangle that has some issues....
FWIW, collectors that take BC out of the swamp regularly reduce roots by 95-98 percent with a simple saw. This tree can handle that...