Japanese white pine from seed (pinus parviflora)

[clem]

Link
"Loosing a few branches of my white pine"
https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/japanese-white-pine.66516/#:~:text=Loosing a few branches of my white pine

Thank for the link.. i guess the loss of this right branch was a natural process (buds didn't grow, and then needles turned yellow at the same time when the 2 year old needles turned yellow) : the tree has abandoned a branch that has become weak
And as Brian says on your link : "JWP does better in soil on the dry side, but I would absolutely not repot it until spring.". As long as my JWP keeps green needles and fungus on the surface soil, i prefer to not disturb it and keep the soil on the dry side.

 

[Japonicus]

Please don't fret over the mychorrhezia. It is there.
As long as you do not bare root it, it is there. It is a good idea to collect some at repotting time and crumble it up, reintroducing it to the roots where you've raked them out and cut extraneous lengths of roots. Some argue that you never need to add any, as it is there in microscopic form always and will multiply per the plants needs.

To lift the rootball from the pot and inspect visually, would not be considered repotting. If you have mychorrhezia on the surface, it is safe to say the rest of the root mass is encapsulated with it and should hold together well when removed from pot.

Is there any way to inquire as to when this was last repotted, or did I miss that?

My biggest concerns are the hollow at soil level and particle size.
Highly recommend 1/4 inch sized lava, pumice and akadama in equal parts for this tree. Expect renewed vigour after repotting in Spring. The tissue at soil level needs to be assessed for rot, for the same reason we do not take shari all the way to soil level.

 

[clem]

Is there any way to inquire as to when this was last repotted, or did I miss that?

I asked to the pro who sold me the tree, showing the last pics too. He answered that the tree looks in perfect shape, Repotting approximately every 5 years
Next in 2026 a little late on March April akadama pure or with gravel. Comb the roots but only cut a little. Just the ones that fall when scratched.

For the pleasure of the eyes, a few famous JWP with a shari (or uromiki) that goes down to the ground ->

 

[clem]

a mushroom emerged within a few days




I let the soil dry out on the surface before watering again (at the moment it takes 2 weeks minimum because there is little sun and it is cool and humid) but that does not prevent moss from developing on the surface.

 

[tanlu]

That’s a beautiful tree. You’ve picked a high stakes specimen to learn from! There’s been a lot of good bonsai advice shared on this thread, so I’d definitely go with it. In fact, I’d go so far as to say go with what you’re getting here as opposed to the person who sold you the tree. We’re not making money from this and some of these guys have intimate knowledge of this species.

I’ve been growing JWP on their own roots for many years now (I’m sort of obsessed with the beauty of the species). JWP are known to be more challenging than other pines because their roots require consistent oxygen flow at the root zone, as well as consistent moisture (not soaking conditions). When you do repot, definitely go with all inorganic bonsai soil that doesn’t break down within a few years, since your tree is older and will need at least 4-5 years between each repotting.

I live on the mid-Atlantic east coast of the US, which is actually quite similar in climate to central Japan. This species needs lots of water in summer…more than you might think. The dry conditions JPW are said to require are during the cooler months of the year through winter. But the tree will also need an occasional watering in winter so as not to completely dry out. So, you’ll have to check the soil regularly in winter, still.

Also, as mentioned by others, I would refrain from any structural work for at least a year. Older trees in particular will take longer to adjust to a new climate. And, judging by the looks of that soil, it needs a repot, so definitely let it grow freely and just keep it happy.

 

[clem]

That’s a beautiful tree. You’ve picked a high stakes specimen to learn from! [...]

I’ve been growing JWP on their own roots for many years now (I’m sort of obsessed with the beauty of the species). [...]

Also, as mentioned by others, I would refrain from any structural work for at least a year. Older trees in particular will take longer to adjust to a new climate. And, judging by the looks of that soil, it needs a repot, so definitely let it grow freely and just keep it happy.

Thank you.
I also have JWP seedlings to learn from.

Did you already show your JWP on this forum ? If not, It would be intersting that you show your JWP on their own roots on the forum (on separate threads of course) to share your work and experience, and to show their evolution during a long period of time.
To trust someone and follow his advices, I prefer to see his own trees. In the meantime, I'm following the advice of the pro who sold me the tree, and who did several apprenticeships in Japan. He is not a beginner.


Concerning my JWP, i will repot it next spring, very carefully.

 

[tanlu]

Thank you.
I also have JWP seedlings to learn from.

Did you already show your JWP on this forum ? If not, It would be intersting that you show your JWP on their own roots on the forum (on separate threads of course) to share your work and experience, and to show their evolution during a long period of time.
To trust someone and follow his advices, I prefer to see his own trees. In the meantime, I'm following the advice of the pro who sold me the tree, and who did several apprenticeships in Japan. He is not a beginner.


Concerning my JWP, i will repot it next spring, very carefully.

I hope you're enjoying the learning experience. For me that's half the fun of bonsai.

I've killed many JWPs over the years through trial and error. I have 2 left that were growing in the ground for 15 years, and potted one of those two this spring. It's not styled yet, only pruned, to ensure it survives the transition to life in a pot. I'll be branch bending with guy wires in late winter next year and will also repot that spring to remove as much garden soil as possible. Styling will have to wait until next winter.

Posting here is extra work I rarely have time for, but I am taking photos and will eventually post the progression of this tree.