hydrophobic yamadori soil

You could get a tarp under it without lifting the whole thing. Redneck swimming pool like.

Only the pines are "happy"?

That fir don't look bad.

If the other bases contained such similarly exposed roots, I'd consider that enough in fresh soil, close enough to the trunk, to safely Repot after it is reestablished.

Sorce
 
I would suggest additional drainage holes in the wooden box to ensure water does not sit for extended periods of time in the bottom. The anaerobic condition is what you wish to avoid. Continual flushing with frequent watering will prevent that by bringing fresh oxygen into the substrate. This is only true if the substrate drains freely and the sand is not too fine that it compacts all space between particles to the point where water stays between the particles by adhesion. I often drill holes in the sides just above the bottom level around the outside of the box. Even if there are holes in the bottom of the box, resting on the ground can slow drainage or plug it quickly. The side holes do not have this interference. It also makes it easy to see if water has reached the bottom and is flushing throughout.
 
You could get a tarp under it without lifting the whole thing. Redneck swimming pool like.

Only the pines are "happy"?

That fir don't look bad.

If the other bases contained such similarly exposed roots, I'd consider that enough in fresh soil, close enough to the trunk, to safely Repot after it is reestablished.

Sorce

Still not working, sorce. Should I try a Chevy or Ford?

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TNP!

Totally Not Photoshopped!

Sorce
 
Your description of the sand sounds like "rock flour", silt size particles of rock, ground by movement of glaciers. It collects as sediment in alpine lakes and areas periodically flooded by glacial melt water. Makes a crappy soil, it has most of the properties of silt, rather than sand. Particles are not as fine as clay.

When I collect trees, I try to get close as practical to bare rooting. No natural soil is any good as a potting media. The less natural soil you bring along with your collected tree the better. However, there is the issue of preserving fine roots on the collected tree, so you end up having to keep some native soil. Remove too much, mortality becomes more likely. Remove too little, (bring along too much native dirt) and you will run into the problems of the native soil being crappy for use in a container. Again, mortality will become an issue.

I would consider putting a heavy layer of long fiber sphagnum over the surface of the soil. Long fiber, so that it is easily lifted if needed to inspect the soil underneath. Keep the sphagnum moist to wet. It should help keep the hydrophobic dirt wet once you finally get it wet. I have use wetter-sticker for pesticides in my water when trying to wet peat mixes that got too dry. Usually no problem. Key is only a drop or two is all that is needed in 5 gallon bucket of water.

I have also used a Yucca sourced product. I forget which one, it was foamy as heck. It did wet peat based media fairly quickly.
 
Your description of the sand sounds like "rock flour", silt size particles of rock, ground by movement of glaciers. It collects as sediment in alpine lakes and areas periodically flooded by glacial melt water. Makes a crappy soil, it has most of the properties of silt, rather than sand. Particles are not as fine as clay.

When I collect trees, I try to get close as practical to bare rooting. No natural soil is any good as a potting media. The less natural soil you bring along with your collected tree the better. However, there is the issue of preserving fine roots on the collected tree, so you end up having to keep some native soil. Remove too much, mortality becomes more likely. Remove too little, (bring along too much native dirt) and you will run into the problems of the native soil being crappy for use in a container. Again, mortality will become an issue.

I would consider putting a heavy layer of long fiber sphagnum over the surface of the soil. Long fiber, so that it is easily lifted if needed to inspect the soil underneath. Keep the sphagnum moist to wet. It should help keep the hydrophobic dirt wet once you finally get it wet. I have use wetter-sticker for pesticides in my water when trying to wet peat mixes that got too dry. Usually no problem. Key is only a drop or two is all that is needed in 5 gallon bucket of water.

I have also used a Yucca sourced product. I forget which one, it was foamy as heck. It did wet peat based media fairly quickly.
Your description is dead on. Rock flour. It does wet eventually but at a rate of 1mm/week or something like that. I've been poking holes in it to compromise root disturbance and wetting. I have the Tween 20 coming today so I will try that. I estimate ~10% of the root ball is unwetted closer to the trunk and farther out from the trunk it is nicely wetted and mostly pumice. Subalpine fir has a lot of fine roots close to the trunk and its this region that is clumped up. The collected lodgepoles and mountain hemlocks in the same soil do not have this problem because they don't have the density of fine roots holding the rock flour.

It also just occurred to me this rock flour would make an excellent glaze material
 
Glad to see you're collecting! I've experienced this hydrophobic native soil as well. Here are a few notes for you.
  • Don't stress too much-remember the tree is growing fine in the hydrophobic soil in the native environment
  • I definitely would not remove all field soil
  • I'd suggest just combing out/chop sticking out the outer edge maybe 1/2 to 1 inch of roots/native soil, keeping all the interior soil/root ball untouched
  • You want some roots hanging out on the outer edge going straight into sifted/screened pumice
  • Insert a metal chop stick, sharpened screw driver or ice pick into areas of the core, so water may penetrate down from top of root ball to bottom
  • Don't over do it!!! Maybe just do this in 2-5 spots around the root ball, You're not going to evenly saturate the pumice and native soil and that's okay
  • You can also use this tool to gently insert maybe an inch down into areas that are very tight and wiggle tool to lightly loosen the soil up a bit(Again don't over do this!-more is not better)
  • If you do this, keep in mind your balancing curing the hydrophobic soil with damaging roots-there's a balance here which likely leans towards not damaging too many roots
  • When you water, attempt to overhead water the tree, saturating the soil-i'll hit it maybe three times
  • Put tree in a Nice Tight box, too much pumice and space will keep your tree too wet
  • Don't over water
  • Once your tree starts growing next year it will require to be watered more frequently
  • If it rains a lot, I'd put a board under one side to elevate one side slightly
  • Keep the tree on the ground
  • I think you can fertilize right away-both folar feed and add on soil
  • I don't soak my trees or use HB101
Good luck! @NaoTK Give me a call if you want to discuss.
 
A thought I forgot to mention. Trees that seem to be in very dry locations, either in dry soils or on dry rock surfaces, most likely they are "plugged in" to the mycorrhizal network. The mycorrhiza will move water to the tree. After collecting, it should not take too long for the mycorrhiza to colonize the pot you put the tree in. This mycorrhiza will move water from the outer areas where the pumice is, to the roots of the tree.

If you use only organic fertilizers, this will promote the development of mycorrhiza. Inorganic fertilizers at "Label Strength" dose rates can knock back the mycorrhiza. Dilute inorganic fertilizers - maybe 1/4 label recommended strength, are less likely to knock back mycorrhiza. More dilute, more frequently is a good strategy for inorganic fertilizers. Or pile on the organic ferts. Problem with organic is they are usually quite low dose for nitrogen. The advantage is the nitrogen tends to be amino acids, which require the least amount of energy for the tree to absorb.
 
For closure on this, I also tried the Tween 20 (polysorbate 80) and that did not work. So I will let nature take its course. most of the perimeter roots are wetted so it should be ok.
 
If you can't get that soil wet with all these different techniques, than that soil definitely wasn't getting wet before it was collected, so I seriously doubt it contains any living fine roots anyways. Just pack it in pumice and water as usual, whatever roots are alive will grow into the pumice.
 
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